Any Audiophiles Here?

Well, of course... as I mentioned... one can spend stupid amounts of money in car audio. I've had experience with custom tuning individual crossovers for speaker sets. Also have had (still do) several AudioControl components, most similar to their current EQL, EQS, EQX type components. Of course in addition to the Morel drivers I mentioned earlier I've had Altec, JVC, JBL, SEAS, Vifa, Scanspeak and may other drivers.

High end auto installs can (and do) sound quite well. But given the constraints, there just are too many physics going against any installation that you simply don't have when installing into a proper room. Dollar for dollar you can take the same expenditure in a rectangle shaped room and have exponentially better sound. ;)

The inherent problem that will always exist within the confines of an automobile/truck/van etc. is you just do not physically have the space to reproduce a given sound wave. For instance, low bass will never physically be able to be reproduced inside the confines of an automobile due to the wavelengths involved. (IE: 24Hz=28.25ft @ sea level @ 72°) And that is before it hits a wall and needs to reflect back, double that for a full sine wave inside the area. Move down to 20Hz and you need a full 56.5 feet! Then take synthesized/electronic bass from a lot of today's music where they'll mix it down to 14~16Hz and you're looking at a wavelength of 70~80 FEET! :eek:

Yet inside the vehicle you indeed have the impression that you are experiencing true, low, bass. How does that happen? Simple, you are pressurizing the internal area, and your entire body, eardrums and everything else is simply oscillating (more or less) in unison with the bass drivers. Open the hatch, all the doors, give the sound a place to go and WHAM the bass outside will truly reach "sub" levels. It's turning your body literally into a passive radiator. ;)

Which also goes to why the cops travelling around outside say the bass is so loud to them when inside all you're doing is just having a good time. :rolleyes:

You're not right. Why do you think the full length of a soundwave has to physically fit in a room before it "truly heard"? Makes no sense. Answer this.... how do headphones work? Clearly most sound waves are longer than the distance between your ear and the headphone's speaker. Everyone has witnessed bass in headphones. Don't tell me they aren't "actually hearing it".


Also bass travels further than higher frequencies. It is also omnidirectional, which means the sound waves sort of bleed all over the place. That's why you can still hear it clearly outside of a car and down the street, but you can't hear the rest of the music.
 
OP inquires about audiophiles...

90% of thread is on car audio.

:dunno:
 
Wow!!! talk about coming full circle...

I was heavily involved/ competed in sound off for many years in my younger days.. It was that hobby that led to my current one (detailing)...:dblthumb2:

I remember spending many nights looking at the spectrum analyzer, adjusting the third octave EQ , and equalizing the path length between left and right speakers as well as resolving the phasing issues between them. It is not always about loudness. Accuracy and staging plays a big role in how realistic a system will sound.

The challenge in car audio is the interior space. It takes planning and experimentation to build a winning system. Each vehicle has its limitations so the approach to each vehicle will generally be slightly different. Each component on its own will not take a mediocre system to a great one. All components must work well together / compliment each other.

To my friends or a passer-by, the system would sound just fine but I knew there were more that I could squeeze out.


I say....Audiophiles (car/home) has a lot similarities with detailing.
 
What 73" did you have? Newer DLP, or older (and MUCH BETTER) CRT tech? FWIW my main viewing set is a Mitsubishi WS-73615 which was their flagship from 2004~2005/06. Still a better set than any DLP technology, and honestly... in 1080i it's a better picture than most LED sets out there.

Our problem is, (in the main room upstairs) light control. (Like that's something new.) :rolleyes: Even so, I've threatened to mount a projector inside the kitchen cabinet (behind an optical glass pass-thru in the rear wall) and put a 120" screen in the family room. ;) As you can imagine.... that doesn't go over too well (no matter how many times I try). :laughing:

In the interim, the ol' Mits keeps on ticking. Weekend days it'll run 16~18 hours! I'd like to see a new set run 50,000 hours like the old CRT's did! :rolleyes:

I had the first year Diamond series 65" CRT that 1080i the heat sinks came loose on one the circuit boards. So I told wife was junk and got DLP 73" 1080p I should got old one fixed I wanted bigger screen but picture on old CRT was way better only good thing on the DLP was the weight a lot eisier to move.
 
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