Any tips for applying Klasse Sealant Glaze?

i dont get how if you put a pencil eraser sized dot how can that be spread thin enough to cover a hood and fenders without drying or disappearing into the pad?

If it's a liquid wax, and the foam applicator pad has already been primed by using it on a previous panel, it's totally doable.

There's alot of pros who talk about using no more than about 3/4 of an ounce of liquid sealant to cover an entire vehicle. They see it as anything more than that and you're doing it wrong.
 
i did the spray bottle method i put about two ounces in the spray bottle, used maybe a quarter ounce on the car and it was still streaky and hard to remove. i certainly didnt have to much product on the car seeing as they say to use two ounces per car. im going to try another coat in a little bit
 
i did the spray bottle method i put about two ounces in the spray bottle, used maybe a quarter ounce on the car and it was still streaky and hard to remove. i certainly didnt have to much product on the car seeing as they say to use two ounces per car. im going to try another coat in a little bit

The key is to buff it in and off almost immediately. Spritz, buff, clean buff. If you get a stubborn area, respritz and buff off. Then allow it to dry for 6-8 hours as possible.

If you get a real stubborn spot, you can try a lightly damp MF towel. I don't like to add water to a curing sealant, but this works in a pinch.
 
My technique is to apply a very thin coat even layer to each panel going over entire car, by the time you coat the last panel, the first one should be dry. For removal, liberally spritz a clean MF towel with your QD of choice, wipe the panel with the QD towel until haze is gone then take a another clean dry MF towel to wipe remainder of liquid QD that may be left on the panel. Little time consuming and you'll go thru a few towels but it works great.
 
The key is to buff it in and off almost immediately. Spritz, buff, clean buff. If you get a stubborn area, respritz and buff off. Then allow it to dry for 6-8 hours as possible.

If you get a real stubborn spot, you can try a lightly damp MF towel. I don't like to add water to a curing sealant, but this works in a pinch.

thanks bro your tip with the spray bottle worked great my mistake was putting it on with a da, def better using a microfiber towel, i didnt even have to buff any off right away since with the microfiber u are kind of applying and buffing at the same time. the directions on bottle say the longer you leave on before u buff the better. ur only saying to buff right after if theres a streak right?

anyway i have prob only enough time to do a third coat, let it cure for two to three hours then i have to start putting wax on before i lose the garage. u think i should skip the third coat?
 
this is my good account i order from, im not sure how i ended up with two? i think there was a problem with the order page on the first one, i think it would be better to do a third coat even if i can only let it dry a couple hours before waxing, im just thinking becuase the stuff dries so fast it shouldnt be a problem
 
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