Anyone else hate their Flex 3401?

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Biggest thing I'm starting to realize is yes, you can go with wholesale production chemicals (degreasers, APC, dressings) but you've got to spend good money on quality polishes etc to get the job done right.

That would be what I call abrasive technology.

1. Paint is thin.
2. Clearcoats are scratch-sensitive.
3. Compounding and polishing paint is time consuming.
4. Machine polishing requires mental focus and this is just as draining as holding the buffer.

When you consider all of these factors it only serves to drive home the point that using top quality compounds, polishes and cleaner/waxes makes you money, saves you time and really showcases your talent.

Also, from the for what it's worth file, because the Flex or any gear-driven orbital polisher offers a lot of unstoppable oscillating and rotating action it's even more important to use good abrasive technology than any free spinning orbital polisher as the abrading action against the paint is more intense whereas with a free spinning tool there's some forgiveness. Not a lot of forgiveness but more so than a gear driven tool.


My Flex how-to book lists compound and polish brands I've tested and used myself and thus recommend as well as strong recommendations for pads.

 

[Hoytman]

The key with ANY tool starts with the abrasive technology. I hammer on this point on this forum all the time. When you read my posts, look to see how many times in a discussion on paint polishing where you'll see the words abrasive technology and most of the time they are bold and italicized for a reason.

Some guys say technique is #1 and I always politely disagree 100 percent.

It all starts with what's touching the paint.

I read that many times on the forum and agree with 100%.

I just meant that with the talent certain people have with a rotary, like you and Renny and other, along with keeping an assortment of pads, backing plates, and extensions, the rotary may just be the most versatile tool with its ability to go almost anywhere on any vehicle (and with new machines having super low rpm speeds) and in the right hands and in a pinch where nothing else is available to use, you could still easily get by.

I guess I didn't type that last post with the thought of production detailing in mind, nor the availability of tons of tools on hand. I do switch to my da when finishing and at times and since my I don't trust my skills with my rotary as much as you do with yours there are times and places where I wish a had a much smaller/lighter DA available than my G110v2.

Since my Dynabrade attachment for my rotary is my long-throw da I'll be opting for a 3401 on my next purchase...unless I opt for a PE14