Anyone use modeling clay?

dave0mary said:
I tried some on my wifes old Mazda and it worked great! Just as good on a side-by-side (hood) comparo with Clay Magic, fine grade. NO difference. I just had to use DoDo Slippy Lube instead of just any old spray detailer. Not convinced? Then I used it on my father-in-laws red Chevy Equinox. NO marring; NO added swirles; NO issues. Why did I do this? It was eating at me to try it after I saw some in an art supply store @ $3.69 for 1 LB! And yes ... I did the plastic baggie test. I posted this on another forum and 1 guy said they are two completely different animals (detailing clay + modeling clay). May be so. Results and price are all that matters. Tomorrow I'm doing a black CTS and I won't hesitate to try it again. Purists may ban me for life, but ... Cheers!
Click to expand...

You know Dave, this is something I've wondered about for quite some time. Given that Meguiar's modeling, I mean detailing clay, 200 gram (7 oz.), sells for $30.00 vs $3.69 / pound....I will be trying some for sure!! :props:
 
Dr Oldz said:
HUMMMMM. If this is the case then perhaps doughnut glaze can be used on a vehicle in place of Megs #7 or PB BH! :D
Click to expand...

I've had my hands on enough #7-soaked cloths and pads over the years, I'm starting to think it would be a decent hand cream.

Bill
 
ShineTimeDetail said:
I was getting mine at 'Michael's'....I would get the colored 4 packs(4bars). The solid brick I didn't like.
Click to expand...

I'll be going by a Michael's and guess what I'll be picking up!! :props:

I'll be testing it tomorrow!! :dblthumb2:
 
Why didn't Mr. Kadate just use some modeling clay, (be it natural or synthetic), instead of having to experiment until he discovered/invented the automotive claying material that was perfect/ideal for BC/CC paint over-spray removal, and later found to be perfect/ideal for other BC/CC paint contaminates removal as well.

Afterall, synthetic modeling clay, whether oil or wax based, has been in existence since the Bakelite days....about as long as polymer usage for commercial products has been popular. I would imagine Mr. Kadate surely would have had access to some of this modeling clay during his auto clay researching days.

So...If I had the notion to use modeling clay instead of auto clay, I would make sure it was a wax-based thermo-set synthetic having enough plasticizers in order for it to be as malleable as possible. I'd also keep in mind the fact that to be as workable as possible, this type of clay requires warmth to be malleable, moldable, flexible....but with it being a 'thermo-set plastic', not too much warmth!

Maybe it's worth a try, though. Cost comparison is one issue. But since time is money, a comparison between the time it takes to complete a claying session between modeling/auto clays would be interesting.

:)

Bob
 
Bilt-Hamber should sell their clay here as kids clay and just put the word out. :xyxthumbs:
 
i checked out some clay at wally and they was all way too soft even the kind you bake in the oven(i had a peice of real clay with me :P) so i discarded that idea and just though about those kneaded rubber erasers i need to get me a couple and see how they work compared to the detailing clay.the brand name of it is "Sanford Sanford Design Kneaded Rubber Art Eraser" ...we will see when i get my hands on one to try out.
 
I think I already posted this in this thread, but when we went through this on another forum, people weren't using modeling clay, they were using Sticky Tack or Blu-Tack which is another craft item used for temporarily attaching posters and the like to walls. That may be more like Mr. Kadate's clay (without the abrasives). Besides, Mr. Kadate had about 60 different recipes in his patent.
 
How about this idea...take a wad of modeling clay and fold in a bunch of talc or corn starch? That should give the clay some, (gentle) abrasiveness.

Another thought...'they' used to make a wallpaper cleaner that was kinda like a 'clay.' Anyone remember it? Still available?

Bill
 
Setec Astronomy said:
I think I already posted this in this thread, but when we went through this on another forum, people weren't using modeling clay, they were using Sticky Tack or Blu-Tack which is another craft item used for temporarily attaching posters and the like to walls. That may be more like Mr. Kadate's clay (without the abrasives). Besides, Mr. Kadate had about 60 different recipes in his patent.
Click to expand...

You know, I seem to remember that!! :props:
 
dave0mary said:
I know you've asked for pics ... but how do I show contamination removed on a video when when the only way you can tell it's gone is with a baggie test.
Click to expand...

Often people will post pictures of the contaminated clay. :)

Here's just one example:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...olfgang-elastic-poly-clay-bar-review-how.html


IMO...If you are satisfied with your processes/tools/supplies...then that's all that should matter for you.


I just think this has been like a discussion involving chalk and cheese. :)

Bob
 
I agree with funx725. I know what results it brings, I like them so ill continue to use it. I still have light auto clay but have only used it once. I'll pay a $4 for over 4x the amount of any other car clay. You will just have to try it yourself if you don't believe something.
 
I'll offer my uneducated opinion; I'm not a chemist by any means :)

Some modeling clays use derivatives of kaolin, which itself is a fine abrasive and could be responsible for the paint cleaning effects. While it's probably not as good as the various metallic oxides used for polishes, it could work. Some tooth whitening products (like what dentists use) use kaolin as the active material for polishing.

What's the unknown is the binder that's used to keep modeling clay as a workable substance instead of a pile of clay powder. For all we know it could be mildly acidic/alkaline or possess any manner of paint-unfriendly properties. Not saying that it doesn't work, but until I have a little bit more information I'll personally keep away from the product =)
 
I found this quote elsewhere:

"yes bluetak works great, i have used it for months, the secret to make it glide over your paint and pick up particals of dirt and other nasties is to add a very small pinch of flour and a drop of vinegar, work it in and then make it into a 2 by 2 inch square, then just use a paint lube to help slide over the paint, just as good as clay, if not better and far far cheaper, proper clay has vinegar and and natural lime mixed into it, give it a go and u will be amazed. "

All that being said, I'm not going to be trying it anytime soon as I have enough clay to last until the patents run out, even if that's till 2018...
 
i wonder how fimo clay would par up with detailing clay. i last used fimo like 9 years ago as a kid for some stuff if i remember correctly its not sticky like normal clay is and has more of a plastic feel to it...if i can find some fimo clay localy i might give it a try also just to test..same thing with the kneaded rubber erasers. i bet the kneaded rubber will work close to a medium clay if i can remember correctly it did feel a bit "gritty" when i last used it in grade school...of course i doubt i will have it replace detailing clay but dont hurt to experiment!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top