Anything else for a new car...and a few other questions

rob_v

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Hello All,

Been working on my own cars forever, and after being on this forum, I feel like I have a bit of information overload and would like some advice.

I just picked up a new ride a few weeks ago F150 FX4 - Race Red.
Got it home and put it under some light and paint looks good. A few minor things, that I was able to get out.

Here was my initial process

I started w/ a foam gun with Chemical Guys Maxi Suds II (not sure who likes using that thing more, me or my kids!)

Followed by a wash (2 bucket method)
(I probably should have used dawn, but did not have any on hand)

Dried using a few MF cloths, then clayed it.
Re-rinse and dried.
I then used some PoorBoys SSR1 on a grey pad (using a g110 DA) which did a good job of taking out any blemishes.

Side note....I just picked up the DA last week and it only had a grey pad, so that is what I used. I have since ordered a set of CG pads: Pads
(The wifes car needs some work so I figured I'd just by a set)

I then followed up w/ some Natty Blue Paste Wax. (I have since picked up some Collinite 845)
I also used Aerospace 303 on all the plastics and tires.

And it looks very good, but what can I do to "take it to the next level"?

Should I have done anything after I did the SSR1?

That being said, I have some questions about some products and where they would fit into the cycle.

I have some red moose glaze from ClearKoat, doing some reading, I seems I could put this one before the wax.
What benefits will it provide, and which pad should I use to apply it (and how)?

I have been reading about Blackfire Wet Diamond Paint Sealant, what exactly is a Sealant, and where should it go in the process?
Is it a good idea to use this on a new car?
Is that the same type of thing as 22ple VX1 Pro Glass Coating?

What would you recommend for the actual wheel protection - they are Moto Metal 961 - Chrome Plated. Im not sure if they have a clear coat on them or not (how can I tell?)
All I have done so far to them is wax them w/ some Collinite 845.

Here are the products I currently have on hand.
Chemical Guys Maxi Suds II
Foam Gun
DA w/ Chemical Guys Hex-Logic Buffing Pads
M105
PB SSR1
PB SSR2 (Could this take the place of M205)
Red Moose Glaze
PB Natty Blue Paste Wax
Collinite 845
Aerospace 303
Zymol Wax
Mothers Back to Black

After doing what seems like hours of reading here there are a few things, there are a few things I think Im going to add..
Iron-X
CarPro PERL or Duragloss Wet Shine for the tires.
Some IPA

Anything else obvious that I'm missing?

Sorry for the long post - and thanks for any info anyone can give me.

_Rob
 
I have some red moose glaze from ClearKoat, doing some reading, I seems I could put this one before the wax.
What benefits will it provide, and which pad should I use to apply it (and how)?

Generally, glaze is like "makeup" for a car, it fills in any little scratches/swirls so your paint looks super smooth. Most people use this as a cosmetic step only--good if you're competing in car show or want to add a little more "umph" or depth on top your paint

I have been reading about Blackfire Wet Diamond Paint Sealant, what exactly is a Sealant, and where should it go in the process?
Is it a good idea to use this on a new car?
Is that the same type of thing as 22ple VX1 Pro Glass Coating?

When it comes to paint protection: coating>sealant>wax in order of longevity and durability. Collinite products are outliers though, they are waxes but last as long as sealants.

Sealants bond best to clean paint, you can layer it or top with a wax--but you should not top a wax with a sealant. A sealant would be applied after claying/decontamination + polish if necessary. Coatings must be applied to squeaky clean paint and last much longer: a couple yrs to permanent (OptiCoat). Most coatings cannot be topped with anything else save a specialized coating topper--except for DP Paint Coating.


Looks like you have most of what you need; although one of the resident AGO pro's can give you more detailed advice.:xyxthumbs:
 
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