anything that is close to 105 but doesnt suck with dust

I have the Opti hyper polish..so i know what to expect spraying it around.
 
Dubbin1 said:
If you have "NO" dusting then you're not using M105.
Click to expand...

Sure there is some dust. but its very minor. surely nothing to write home about. And Yeah i am using 105.

are your pads clean? are they primed? If my pads get even a little build up in them and dont stay primed they dust. but as long as i keep them clean and damp it doesnt dust.
 
I too started using M105 and after a few passes I figured out how to decrease dusting with it!

As everyone already said, pad prep is essential and then priming + frequent pad cleaning and re-lubrications in between section passes!

Initially it was dusting like hell!! (but I found that removing excess polish on trim and crevices which was in the 'dust' form was much easier than trying to remove a adhered polish with IPA or APC! :D )
 
User's experiences are sure all over the board with this product.


Yesterday indoors on the Florida coast
I had some pad testing to do yesterday and used M105 as the chemical and out of 3 different types of pads, two foam and one Surbuf, the buffing cycle was as long as I wanted to buff, no dusting problem, no gumming-up and easy wipe-off. This was done in our studio but the air conditioning was not on, it was approximately 82 degrees, not sure what the humidity inside was. This testing was all done using 3 DA's, Meguiar's, Griot's and Porter Cable.


2-3 years ago outdoors in SoCal
I sanded and buffed 5 custom painted Mustangs in Covina, California in July about 2-3 years ago, temperature was around 100 degrees, working under canopy tents, mostly black and dark colored Mustangs and I the buffing cycle was short, the product was getting gummy on the surface and wipe-off was more difficult than I like for a compound. In this detailing session I was using a double sided aggressive wool cutting pad and cleaning my pad in a System 2000 pad wash after buffing each section. So I was working as clean as possible in the environment I was in, which was dirty, dusty, windy and hot.


Of course technique is everything but climate is a huge factor too...

Outside of the Mustang example above I can't remember any detailing sessions that stand out where working with M105 was an issue and the problem there was heat and wind.


FWIW


:)
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
User's experiences are sure all over the board with this product.


Yesterday indoors on the Florida coast
I had some pad testing to do yesterday and used M105 as the chemical and out of 3 different types of pads, two foam and one Surbuf, the buffing cycle was as long as I wanted to buff, no dusting problem, no gumming-up and easy wipe-off. This was done in our studio but the air conditioning was not on, it was approximately 82 degrees, not sure what the humidity inside was. This testing was all done using 3 DA's, Meguiar's, Griot's and Porter Cable.
Click to expand...

Did you just squirt an X pattern on a dry pad like you show in your videos and get these results?
 
Mike, any way you could post a video of you working with 105 on a section that is uncut; hopefully the rest of us can learn this magical no-dust technique.
 
S2K said:
Did you just squirt an X pattern on a dry pad like you show in your videos and get these results?
Click to expand...

No, I primed the pad by spreading the product out over the face of the pad with my finger and then added 3 dime size dallops...

However, I don't think I would have had the problem if I would have used the X-pattern or the Circle-pattern method either. The testing wasn't actually about M105 it was for other purposes, I just chose to use M105 because of all the posts I see all the time about it being dusty and having a short working cycle.

I'm not saying people don't have these types of experiences with the product, because if you read enough forums you'll see a lot of posts like this. I'm just sharing what I saw and what I've seen since I've been using this product and that would date back to when it was a Lab Sample when I worked at Meguiar's.


With the RB I just picked up my bead like normal.


Good question!


:xyxthumbs:
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
User's experiences are sure all over the board with this product.


Yesterday indoors on the Florida coast
I had some pad testing to do yesterday and used M105 as the chemical and out of 3 different types of pads, two foam and one Surbuf, the buffing cycle was as long as I wanted to buff, no dusting problem, no gumming-up and easy wipe-off. This was done in our studio but the air conditioning was not on, it was approximately 82 degrees, not sure what the humidity inside was. This testing was all done using 3 DA's, Meguiar's, Griot's and Porter Cable.


2-3 years ago outdoors in SoCal
I sanded and buffed 5 custom painted Mustangs in Covina, California in July about 2-3 years ago, temperature was around 100 degrees, working under canopy tents, mostly black and dark colored Mustangs and I the buffing cycle was short, the product was getting gummy on the surface and wipe-off was more difficult than I like for a compound. In this detailing session I was using a double sided aggressive wool cutting pad and cleaning my pad in a System 2000 pad wash after buffing each section. So I was working as clean as possible in the environment I was in, which was dirty, dusty, windy and hot.


Of course technique is everything but climate is a huge factor too...

Outside of the Mustang example above I can't remember any detailing sessions that stand out where working with M105 was an issue and the problem there was heat and wind.


FWIW


:)
Click to expand...

My working conditions were similar to the first test. PC on orange CCS. around 75-80 degrees and around 55-75% humidity.

Do you think it could have something to do with surface temperature? The car i worked on was ambient temperature.

Also, i have noticed my 3M pads on my Rotary dust a lot more. perhaps from the heat?
 
AndrewBall said:
Sure there is some dust. but its very minor. surely nothing to write home about. And Yeah i am using 105.

are your pads clean? are they primed? If my pads get even a little build up in them and dont stay primed they dust. but as long as i keep them clean and damp it doesnt dust.
Click to expand...

This is my experience as well. Clean and primed are the keys.
 
I had a LOT of dusting too. It would sneak around behind my car and jump on the recessed tail lights and be a bear to remove.
I hit a few spots last night and tried using the quick cleaning method outlined. (Terry cloth) and it helped a TON. It still dusts, but it's managed pretty easy now.
 
As a follow up, I just detailed a car this last weekend using M105 and the cyan hydro tech pads. I kept the pads primed and cleaned with terry cloth, but I still had dust...but like you said, it was manageable.
 
Why is dust such a big concern? Especially if you wash your vehicle after polishing. Not like the dust M105 creates harms the surface.
 
I actually haven't had much issues with the 105 dusting. It does dust a little bit, but I've never had a huge issue like some of the people on here.

Are you working in a hot area? In the sun light? I've always worked in the shade and try to stick to the 2'x2' area.
 
David Fermani said:
Why is dust such a big concern? Especially if you wash your vehicle after polishing. Not like the dust M105 creates harms the surface.
Click to expand...

If you use a compound that creates a lot of dust, it can truly be a PITA to remove from all the nooks and crannies, and a simple car wash isn't going to get rid of it easily.
 
Rob T said:
If you use a compound that creates a lot of dust, it can truly be a PITA to remove from all the nooks and crannies, and a simple car wash isn't going to get rid of it easily.
Click to expand...

A pressure washer will.
 
Rob T said:
If you use a compound that creates a lot of dust, it can truly be a PITA to remove from all the nooks and crannies, and a simple car wash isn't going to get rid of it easily.
Click to expand...

The dust isn't the problem, it's the excessive product that gets deposited into these sections. I you wipe your panel immediately after, you shouldn't have a problem. Especially if you concentrate on how you work the product and avoiding the heavy film build from these areas. The only time I've had issue with M105 is when it's been left on for long periods of time. Case in point, I've taped off door belt moldings while polishing and found a hard line that formed when I removed the tape 1-2 days later. It can certainly be a little tedious to remove. It usually requires a little bit of M105 or even M205 on a microfiber towel to easily remove.
 
Menzerna Powergloss POS34A works very well. :props:
 
After chatting with Kevin Brown I have an all new outlook on M105. He provided with me with some tips that gave me much less dusting. A simple spritz of water and constantly keeping the pad clean made a huge difference.

After a couple text messages this is how he put it "funny how a couple tune-up changes can make such a difference".

If you ever see a post by Kevin, I urge you to read it, he may be your new detailing hero by the time you're done.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top