Are these the correct steps? (DD wash ... seal)

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AJ Peacock

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Hi all, I'm astounded at the vast amount of information on this forum!

I've probably spent 30 hours reading posts/articles over the last few days. I've learned so much that I had to make 4 orders from AG in the last 3 days!.

My daughter drives a Black fleck 2014 Ford Focus. It lives outside and is pretty much ignored (she's in Med School), so taking care of the outside of her car is way way down on her priority list.

I'll have access to her car for a week in April while she is taking a much needed week off. I plan to clean and seal her paint and windows (weather permitting, we are in Michigan and it could be a blizzard!).

Here are my plans for the paint, please let me know what I'm missing.
I've ordered a Porter Cable DA, 1/2gallon foam gun, WolfGang uber wash, WGDGPS, WolfGang tire/wheel kit, Iron-X, microfiber mitts, towels, guzzlers ...

1) rinse off all the loose dirt.
2) use foam gun and let it soak/loosen dirt.
3) rinse.
4) foam again and use microfiber mitt to lightly agitate.
5) rinse.
6) dry.
7) spray Iron-X, let it soak for 4-5 minutes.
8) rinse.
9) foam again, use Cobra Clay mitt (with a bunch of foam) to remove additional crud from paint.
10) rinse/dry.

Now what? directly to the WGDGPS? Or should I use a paint cleaner/polisher ...??? I'm just interested in protecting the paint, this car is a DD that will be worn out and traded off in 5-6 years.

If the WGDGPS will adhere without any polishing ..., I'm good with that. The paint is in good shape except for the typical light scratches from the automated washes (gotta do these to keep the salt off the car/underbody in the winter. I can always do a good polish when it's time to trade it off. ???


Windows, I'm going to use the McKees restorer on the DA followed by McKees 37 coating.


Thanks in advance, I hope this isn't too much of a noob question. I really did try to read/research all this stuff.

AJ
 
Med school and taking care of a car are at two opposite ends of the universe! You probably have your work cut out for you! :)

Your plan isn't too far off... I'd tweak a few things, but first please start with these videos.


https://www.autogeekonline.net/foru...wash-gentle-approach-aggressive-approach.html
https://www.autogeekonline.net/foru...o-ever-how-machine-buff-car-start-finish.html


1.) Rinse off all the dirt, but you may want to add a step of tarminator for rockers, bumper covers, etc.., make sure you agitate and rinse. Don't let the tarminator sit on the vehicle too long especially in sunlight.
2. ) Move on to doing the wheels... Wheels and wheel wells will take a considerable amount of time. If the car is still wet by the time you apply iron-x, it will be diluted.
3.) Iron-x - let that dwell 4-5 minutes, do not rinse off. Go right to step 4.
4.) Throw your wash-mitts on the car near the wipers, and foam gun the car. Wash car, using two bucket method with grit guards.
5.) Rinse.
6.) Dry
7.) Inspect the paint - use the baggie test (obviously it will fail.)
8.) Clay/Clay-Mitt - use a good clay lubricant, such as McKee's N914 in a 1:128 dilution. Something with high lubricity. Or Griots Clay Lube.
9.) Inspect the paint. Do you see swirls, scratches? If so use a paint cleanser / polish or a compound. Do a test spot first to see if you get good results.
10.) Apply the sealant and do not get wet for at least 24 hours.

Hope this helps :)
 
If you aren't going to correct any swirls or scratches at this point I would simply add WG Perfekt Finish Paint Prep before you apply the WG sealant. Your steps look fine otherwise. I like to clean the paint before applying a sealant just to make sure nothing from the soap was left behind. I would also like to think I'm sending my daughter of with the longest possible duration of the WGDGPS.
 
Thanks guys,

Paul_G, I'd watched the Wash/Dry video (multiple times). It seems these videos always START with a clean car compared to how filthy my daughters car always is when it comes home for a weekend! I hadn't seen the buffing video, thanks for that. Thanks for the tarminator hint, probably add that to the next order!

Paul A., I guess I'll be making order #5 to get the WG paint prep, not sure how I missed that and the tarminator. There is just so much information that can be absorbed all at once!

Thanks again guys,

AJ
 
I think you are adding a bit too much work for yourself...

1) Wash wheels and tires.

2) Spray Iron-X on a cool dry car. Let it dwell for 4-5 minutes.

3) Foam the whole car.

4) If you can get away with it without the foam drying on the car, wash using 2 bucket method. Rinse as you go.

5) Re-foam the whole car and use the car wash soap as clay lubricant. Rinse as you go. Re-foam as needed.

6) Rinse and dry.

7) Deep Gloss Paint Sealant.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
ekennett said:
I think you are adding a bit too much work for yourself...

1) Wash wheels and tires.

2) Spray Iron-X on a cool dry car. Let it dwell for 4-5 minutes.

3) Foam the whole car.

4) If you can get away with it without the foam drying on the car, wash using 2 bucket method. Rinse as you go.

5) Re-foam the whole car and use the car wash soap as clay lubricant. Rinse as you go. Re-foam as needed.

6) Rinse and dry.

7) Deep Gloss Paint Sealant.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


I appreciate that, but as absolutely filthy as this car is (it lives outside and is almost 100% driven in traffic with lots or rain/road crud). I just want to go slower to 'find the paint'. Probably a bit slow, but its a tiny car and won't take too long.

Thanks,
AJ
 
When you are done with the paint cleanser you will think that the paint is done because it will be so smooth and clear. The first time I used it I was shocked how much of a difference in the clarity it makes to remove the road film even after clay. Your sealant job is going to be so nice I wish you take a photo and post before and after!
 
Thanks again everyone. I'll definitely take some before/after photos.

BTW: I've always just washed using buckets (I have soft water in the house, but only hard water faucets outside).

I'll be installing a second faucet with Soft Water for the foam gun! Big bonus will be not needing to lug buckets from inside the house anymore!

Thanks again everyone,

AJ
 
Another question I've searched for and can't answer.

Since I'll need to clean/seal my daughters car in late April and I'll need to do this outside, what is the low temp limit for the following products/applications?

McKees 37 glass coating: I plan to machine polish with the McKees glass restorer first.

WGDGPS sealant. I know it needs to be kept dry for 12 hours afterwards. I know it cures by Oxygen, but I'll bet the actual cure time is variable based on temperature.

Thanks in advance,
AJ
 
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