Are these the right steps?

[Supergus1]

Back in October I needed to get a coat of wax on my truck before it turned cold and crappy. I wasn't able to do a proper correction. I have some hard water spots that I couldn't remove before waxing. So now that it's warming up I need to start from scratch. My thought was to:
1. Strip with CarPro Eraser
2. IronX
3. Nanoskin
4. Wash with D114
Then polish with Meg's UP and apply PP365.

Are these the appropriate steps?

 

[North26]

Seems a bit much. I would go with this...Wash, Ironx, Clay, Polish, Seal or Wax.

On a side note about your water spots, if they are etched hard into the clear, Meg's UP might not be able to remove them. I would try the UP first with a cutting pad (orange) just to be safe. If that doesn't work try some Meg's UC with the same pad. You really should not have to clean the pad too much because the UC is stronger than the UP.

If that doesn't work you will have to wet sand. Lightly with 1500 then 2000 and if you want 2500/3000. UC will remove 2000 or above. I personally wet sand small places with the negative terminal of a AA battery. Just apply 2 sided tape on the - end, stick paper to tape, lightly wet sand. Also a wine cork will work.

Good luck

 

[FUNX650]

...now that it's warming up I need to start from scratch. My thought was to:
1. Strip with CarPro Eraser
2. IronX
3. Nano skin
4. Wash with D114
Then polish with Meg's UP and apply PP365.

Are these the appropriate steps?

I'd rather go this route:

1. Wash/Dry
2. Decon:
(IronX, or similar; Clay/Nanoskin, per: "Baggie Test")
3. Inspect paint with swirl-finder light source(s)
4. "Test Spot"; "Least Aggressive First"...to find the
paint-correction combo that meets your satisfaction.
5. (Optional) After correction step(s):
Panel-Wipedown with D114 @1:15
6. Apply PP365
7. Go enjoy the finished-object of this project!!


Bob

 

[Supergus1]

Bob,
My concern is that the layers of wax have covered up the water spots. Will the decon steps be able to reach the spots? That's why I thought stripping the wax first would be a good idea.

 

[trekkeruss]

The decontamination steps will remove the wax, so using Erasure is pointless.

 

[FUNX650]

Bob,
My concern is that the layers of wax have covered up the water spots. Will the decon steps be able to reach the spots? That's why I thought stripping the wax first would be a good idea.

By the time you go through the:
wash/dry/decon/inspection/"test spot" steps...
you're ready to polish with the correction-combo
the "test spot" showed you will remove the water spots.

This is where any remaining Wax will also be removed.

My "Steps 1-7" above: Easy Peasy.

Bob

 

[The Guz]

You are going to polish so no need to use eraser to start. You also might want to give this thread a good read.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...01/86146-aggressive-approach-washing-car.html

You are probably going to want to use a hose to rinse off that ironx instead of using D114. UP works fine but I would go with M205 as it offers more correction ability than UP. Then seal with PP365. No need to top 365 with spray waxes, polymer QD's or waxes. Simply wash and dry.