Arizona sun 1, UTTG Solution Finish 0

davidc

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2 weeks ago I applied Solution Finish and let it sit about 16 hrs before topping with UTTG. The rear hatch step panel on the wife's Sienna then looked pretty much like it did when new in 2005. Literally with in days I noticed the gray coming back. Back to the drawing board, I then ordered Car Pro CQuartz DLux. I went out this morning and massaged the DLux into this plastic with out any real prep to try to get rid of the UTTG previously applied. It does not look as good as the Solution Finish/UTTG but it is more black than gray again. I will keep an eye on it to see if this appears to last any longer befpre going thru all the prep that I did previously.

Dave
 
Dave, I will have to take a look but a week or two ago i was in az and helped a friend with his F150. His truck is outside 24/7 and we hit all of his black platic trim with solution finish and uttg. Except for the truck bed top railing as nothing seemed to work on it. Ill let you know is the sun or uttg gets the next point.
 
What did you use to prep the trim for application?

First time was Sem Kote Sand Free for plastic (promotes adhesion to plastic parts) then wax and grease remover then APC wash then clear water wash. Let it dry and applied Solution Finish.

Dave
 
Is Solution Finish Supposed to be topped? You could Opti Coat it; won't be as dark, but will be much darker. I did all that to all my trim and it's pretty much a permanent solution.
 
Dave, I will have to take a look but a week or two ago i was in az and helped a friend with his F150. His truck is outside 24/7 and we hit all of his black platic trim with solution finish and uttg. Except for the truck bed top railing as nothing seemed to work on it. Ill let you know is the sun or uttg gets the next point.

Thanks, let me know. This particular piece of plastic has been a problem for a long long long time. I was hoping this would solve the problem. Maybe topping with UTTG promoted the fast decay but I would not think so. All the plastic on this thing is a high maintenance project. The mirrors stain just from washing and have to be polished to remove stains along with the plastic between the doors and windows. I have pretty much given up on those areas and carry the AIO out with the wash soap knowing I will have to polish. The rear hatch step just oxidizes to gray.

Dave
 
APC can leave something behind that water won't always remove on plastic. Not saying that happened but possible. After a vigorous plastic cleaning and washing I finish with IPA. Ammonia should also work without leaving anything behind that will affect Solution Finish. SF can be sensitive if anything is left behind by cleaners.
I'm going on 4 months I would guess on my Solution Finish tests and while it has faded it's much better than it was or the comparison area is.

I'd also love to follow your CQ Dlux durability thread with proper prep also. Curious to see how it works non prepped like you did also as long as it's clear that the surface wasn't prepped for DLUx. Looking forward to you future AZ testing feedback!
 
Corey, have you tried prepping with a water spot remover?
APC can leave something behind that water won't always remove on plastic. Not saying that happened but possible. After a vigorous plastic cleaning and washing I finish with IPA. Ammonia should also work without leaving anything behind that will affect Solution Finish. SF can be sensitive if anything is left behind by cleaners.
I'm going on 4 months I would guess on my Solution Finish tests and while it has faded it's much better than it was or the comparison area is.

I'd also love to follow your CQ Dlux durability thread with proper prep also. Curious to see how it works non prepped like you did also as long as it's clear that the surface wasn't prepped for DLUx. Looking forward to you future AZ testing feedback!
 
Corey The DLux only needs to last 4 days to be the winner. A little more history. The plastic looked very good after all the prep the first time and I used the solution finish and UTTG for the anti uv aspects. The vehicle had not been washed or rained on during all of this. It was very shocking to see the returning gray after 3 days of application and after 2 weeks the gray splotches got a lot bigger. When I used the DLux it was with a foam applicator and brisk application which appears to have removed most of the graying. Time will tell but if it appears to be working I will prep again for another application if I can get all this stuff off :xyxthumbs:

Dave
 
Corey, have you tried prepping with a water spot remover?

I sure have Ron!! Thank to you that is part of my vigorous cleaning I now do on trim for prep thanks to you! After that I spray it down with water, blow it with the master blaster and then wile it down with 50% IPA.

Corey The DLux only needs to last 4 days to be the winner. A little more history. The plastic looked very good after all the prep the first time and I used the solution finish and UTTG for the anti uv aspects. The vehicle had not been washed or rained on during all of this. It was very shocking to see the returning gray after 3 days of application and after 2 weeks the gray splotches got a lot bigger. When I used the DLux it was with a foam applicator and brisk application which appears to have removed most of the graying. Time will tell but if it appears to be working I will prep again for another application if I can get all this stuff off :xyxthumbs:

Dave

Thanks Dave! I appreciate the details and looking forward to future findings.

I picked up a bottle based on your recommendation :props:

Corey, would you like a sample?

Thanks Richard!! Tad sent me a large sample awhile back and I am good buddy!
 
UTTP>SF. I did a test on my running board about two months ago. SF didn't measure up to UTTP. I'd love to try Carpro Dlux
 
Dave, I will have to take a look but a week or two ago i was in az and helped a friend with his F150. His truck is outside 24/7 and we hit all of his black platic trim with solution finish and uttg. Except for the truck bed top railing as nothing seemed to work on it. Ill let you know is the sun or uttg gets the next point.

My buddy told me his trim is still looking good, hopefully he will send me some pics tomorrow. when we worked on the trim it was night time so the parts got to cure overnight, I'm not sure if that helped or not. I waited about 4 hours between using SF then applying UTTG.
 
Tried that and not so good. I have UTTG on the cowl panel, Luggage rack, and door handles and it holds up pretty well for 3 months or so. On the other hand not so well on black plastic mirrors, window trim and this particular hatch step. I was hoping Solution Finish topped with UTTG would solve that. We will see what DLux does over top of all this.

Dave
 
DLux failed also. Cleaned up 2 sections with Sem Kote and alcohol then applied 303 to one and Solution Finish with no topper. We will see by the end of the week. Maybe since this plastic is meant to be stepped on to enter the rear hatch the plastic is harder/denser than trim and nothing short of black epoxy concrete paint will work.

Dave
 
Try Collonite 845 on a test spot on the trim. I have used it on trim before and it works well.
 
OK, another round after cleaning everything up and using 70% alcohol as the final step.
From left to right, DG 253(because I had it). 303 buffed in with a rotary and wool pad, Solution Finish and last DLux. The last test not noted on here was the alcohol cleanup and 303 buffed in against Solution Finish. The out come was 303 barely edged past Solution Finish at 3 weeks. The Solution Finish had some water spots from rain that were not coming out very easily as the 303 with a hand application and terry cloth. The first test nothing really lasted past 3 days, the next not noted here after the alcohol (Thanks for the tip Corey) lasted 3 weeks with Dlux not in the game. We have been having alot of monsoon weather here with dust storms and rain along with the 108-113 temps so I will see which one of these survive all of this.

Dave
 
Have you tried an acid wash for prep? When I used C4 and it didn't last as long as I thought it was going to, someone here suggested using an acid prep (which I suppose is perhaps what the water-spot remover is doing). I haven't gotten to re-do the C4 yet, but when I do I'm going to prep with something like the FK decon step 2 (acid).

I'm figuring APC, then acid, then maybe a final IPA wipe.
 
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