Aston Martin Detail By Barry Theal

I tell you what Barry that was one of the better details i have seen and the pain't job is beautiful, gl with business.
 
I was going to ask you (it may have been asked before) but I was curious about using the foam glass cleaner as a polish/compound residue cleaner!

Same question here Barry....what brand of foaming glass cleaner do you use/recommend?

Thanks....and as everyone else here has said...Awesome work!
 
You work is like fine art, you make sure it is perfect and it reflects your vision. Beautiful job on that car!
 
Barry,

thank you so much for performing a beautiful correction on such a beautiful car. It always hurts to see such a gorgeous auto in such sad shape. You did it justice.

Incredible detail!

Thank for the kind reply

Those after pics are something else! Great work man!

Thank you

Awsome Awsome job! Thank you taking the time to share this with us. Wishing you Continued success!

:dblthumb2:


YOur welcome and thanks for the kind reply!

Very nice post! Not only do you have some mad skills, your documentation is top notch as well!

:eek::urtheman::drool:

Thanks a ton.

Great pics and good write up! These kind of write up are the things that helped me when I was learning how to detail my own car!

Thanks alot.
wow great job man.

Thank you

Amazing job Barry! Those pictures are amazing as well, wish I could be that skilled. lol

Thanks alot. I am skilled?

Superb job. :urtheman::applause:

Thanks alot!

Great job indeed!!

Truly, greatest detailers are one in a million!! :props:

Thank you.

Awesome work! You quality, and attention to detail is where I want to be in the future!! I love this forum, very useful tool!!

Thanks Mike.

one of the sexiest cars ever. you did it proper?

This is a very sexy car!

600 grit on an Aston Martin! You got cajones my friend! lol :eek:

Car looked great! I really liked those professional shots. Awesome job. :props:

Not cajones Just doing my thing you know. I don't look at cars by there badge. POlishing paint is polishing paint........ Thank you.

Inspirational thank you!

Glad I could be insperational. I have many people who have inspired me!

Amazing job as usual Barry. I always appreciate your write ups.:props:

Thanks


Simply stunning. Looks better than new.

Thanks!

Great work Barry, I always take the time to look through your write-ups whenever I see the Presidential Detail logo!! I was going to ask you (it may have been asked before) but I was curious about using the foam glass cleaner as a polish/compound residue cleaner!

I was using a standard foam glass cleaner. Back before people picked up on IPA wipedowns. Many pros use glass cleaner to clean paint. I still do today at times. I prefer the foam action types when doing heavy compound. I liketo let the foam dwell a little to break everything down. No fancy stuff, It just works. Thaks for the compliments.



great job barry!

Thanks

Great Job!

Thaks Fatty!

I tell you what Barry that was one of the better details i have seen and the pain't job is beautiful, gl with business.
Thanks alot!

Same question here Barry....what brand of foaming glass cleaner do you use/recommend?

Thanks....and as everyone else here has said...Awesome work!

I use a regular glass cleaner that foams. It from a UK company called Autosmart

Autosmart 20/20 is the name. Generally any glass cleaner works.

You work is like fine art, you make sure it is perfect and it reflects your vision. Beautiful job on that car!


Meghan Thanks alot. Ill stop and say hi at detail fest!
 
Great job Barry! Love the details in the write up. Can't wait to use my Migliore Presidenziale!


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How magnificent. What a phenomenal job. I find it hard to imagine a better job done with human hands. This is as good as it gets. Excellent article, too. I really appreciate the comprehensiveness of the detailing of the detailing process. The only thing you are doing wrong is I think you need to be wearing safety glasses or goggles when you use a buffer. A little dust or polish in the eye... not a pleasant thought. I always wear Gargoyles when using a buffer, like some doctors wear for surgery.
 
Bravo. Beautiful. That was a lot of sanding man, and you took the time to do it right. It is so good to see a car get the proper treatment vs. the buffer happy hacks who think they are doing it right.

Magnificent work Barry.

DLB
 
awesome restoration, you must have made that owner so proud
 
WOW that is amazing. With work like that, no wonder your business is expanding so rapidly.


These would have to be my favourite photos:

PresidentialDetailsAst23.jpg



Really is factory fresh:

PresidentialDetailsAst8.jpg
 
First of all that looks AMAZING. The level of detail and extensiveness that went into the car is unbelievable. I just have a quick question, please do not confuse it as criticism. I was wondering why you felt the need to drop so low on the grit, would 1500 have not flattened it out good enough?
 
one of the best write ups I have read/seen in a long time

well done sir
 
First of all that looks AMAZING. The level of detail and extensiveness that went into the car is unbelievable. I just have a quick question, please do not confuse it as criticism. I was wondering why you felt the need to drop so low on the grit, would 1500 have not flattened it out good enough?
There is only one reason to use a coarser grit, and that is to make the job go faster when you have to remove a lot of material. If you have ever used too fine a grit to do a sanding job, and spent half the day sanding a section when it could have been done in one third the time, you would understand. Usually, 600 grit is what you would use for sanding primer, and 1200 or finer is what you would use for paint, perhaps even 1000 if you really wanted it to go quick. Of course, you still go up in grit gradually, until you get to 3000 or whatever, as in 800-1000-1200-1500-2000-2500-3000. Using 600 grit is potentially a really destructive move, but if you have a really good eye, so you know when it's needed, and how far you can go with it, if the defects are deep enough and the paint is thick enough, you can do it and save valuable time. Obviously, Mr. Theal is that good.
Another thing to keep in mind is that this is a repaint that happens to be much thicker than factory paint, which, of course, is part of why it had such deep defects in the first place. That kind of defect isn't visible when the car is just painted. It takes months for that kind of bodywork sink-age to occur. It could be putty settling or primer, which was initially thicker when first sprayed, dried out enough over time that the filling material shrank and thus those defects appeared.

That is why when people prepare show cars that they want to be really really perfect, they do the bodywork, and then leave the car in primer for a couple YEARS, and give the bodywork a chance to settle to whatever state it will ultimately be at. Then they will spray a thin coat of black paint on the car,assuming the primer is grey or red, which contrasts, and then sand it down to find any defects. After those small defects are fixed, THEN they paint the car, and you know it will be perfect.
 
Ok that makes sense. I've just be never heard of anyone dipping below 1000 when they're wetsanding. A couple years eh?
 
Ok that makes sense. I've just be never heard of anyone dipping below 1000 when they're wetsanding. A couple years eh?
That is what I've heard from people who know. If you really want to be sure that EVERYTHING has settled completely. It takes a long time for complete settling to occur. I've seen stuff appear 9 months later, on my own car, and I saw some really horrible sinking that happened on a black hood 5 months later, so bad you could not possibly sand it without hitting bare metal before you hit the low spot on the sink-age. Granted, the degree of sinkage depends a lot on products used, but if you want it perfect, you need to wait. It is why traditionally you would see a lot of hot rods driven around in just primer, with obviously great bodywork, even with new chrome on them. The owners were waiting for the bodywork to settle before they painted, just to be sure. It's especially important on candy paint, for example, because it is say, gold, then clear red. It is impossible to match candy paint, and so if any defects did appear, the whole car would need to be repainted. The exact thickness of the metallic layer, how the flakes lay down, and the exact thickness of the red will determine the ultimate color of candy apple red. If it's chipped, you will never be able to match those two layers. There is this story of a guy who had his car painted candy red, and some woman hit his car with her car, and of course, she only wanted to pay for the area she damaged. The guy had to explain to the judge that you can't match candy paint and that the entire car needed to be repainted, so that is what happened.

Most people don't know about waiting 2 years for bodywork to settle before painting, because most repaints are collision work, which means that the shop wants the job done asap, and so does the owner, usually. Only really high end show cars paint is put off for the bodywork to settle, usually, unless someone just procrastinates. There are paint jobs that can cost $50,000, even over $100,000. Most people have no idea that a paint job can cost $15,000, let alone $50,000.
 
Nice work Barry! Thanks for sharing your multi-level Detail with us. Btw: the photo work done by Brent is incredible.

You mention you prefer a factory look on the interior. Have you ever tried Ultima Interior Guard Plus? If you have not you really should give it a try. It will protect your interiors incredibly well and gives you the look you want. I prefer that factory look as well. Check it out: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...3-review-ultima-interior-guard-plus-uigp.html
 
Awesome work Barry! Loved the write up and the attention to detail too! :dblthumb2:



....makes me want to take on another wet sanding job! :)
 
GREAT JOB! I really appreciate the explanation of this indepth detail of a Beautiful car. AWESOME!
 
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