Autogeeked!!

mikesal57

mikesal57

New member
Joined
Apr 29, 2013
Messages
375
Reaction score
0
Hi All..

A week ago I got a brand new 2014 Honda Pilot...

While at the dealer and finalizing the deal , I told them to NOT TO TOUCH OR WASH THE CAR !!

My wife and the salesman mouths drop...

I said don't touch it..I'll take car of it..
My wife said.... That proves it...He's crazy
Anyway , we waited 2 hours because they had only one finance officer on duty...
So the salesman came back to us and apologized for the wait and told us he'll throw in for free the exterior and interior protectant.
I said..No Thank You
My wife shook her head.

Now...

I washed the car and applied Opti-Seal...
I didn't clay because I didn't want any micro marring and then polish ..but with 13 miles, I'm sure it didn't need it.

Some questions...

1) Chrome Grill....I just washed it...can I use Opti-Seal on it?

2) Wheels.... I sprayed a diluted APC on tires and rims....
Is that enough to protect from brake dust and any damage later on?

3) Interior... I want to protect the leather seats & dash from UV rays before summer kicks in.....I have Mothers VLR , Is this sufficient?


Thxs ( for now)

Mike
 
I've always had issues with dealerships still washing it when I tell them not to so I feel your pain!

1 and 3 I'm not 100% sure but for 2, why not optiseal the wheels as well? APC won't protect them it will just clean them.
 
mikesal57 said:
Hi All..

A week ago I got a brand new 2014 Honda Pilot...

While at the dealer and finalizing the deal , I told them to NOT TO TOUCH OR WASH THE CAR !!

My wife and the salesman mouths drop...

I said don't touch it..I'll take car of it..
My wife said.... That proves it...He's crazy
Anyway , we waited 2 hours because they had only one finance officer on duty...
So the salesman came back to us and apologized for the wait and told us he'll throw in for free the exterior and interior protectant.
I said..No Thank You
My wife shook her head.

Now...

I washed the car and applied Opti-Seal...
I didn't clay because I didn't want any micro marring and then polish ..but with 13 miles, I'm sure it didn't need it.

Some questions...

1) Chrome Grill....I just washed it...can I use Opti-Seal on it?

2) Wheels.... I sprayed a diluted APC on tires and rims....
Is that enough to protect from brake dust and any damage later on?

3) Interior... I want to protect the leather seats & dash from UV rays before summer kicks in.....I have Mothers VLR , Is this sufficient?


Thxs ( for now)

Mike
Click to expand...

Unless it was built just a few weeks ago and a very short transport to the lot, the vast majority of new cars need claying, even right off the lot. :) Opti-seal will just seal those bonded contaminants right in. Sorry...
 
mikesal57 said:
Hi All..

A week ago I got a brand new 2014 Honda Pilot...

While at the dealer and finalizing the deal , I told them to NOT TO TOUCH OR WASH THE CAR !!

My wife and the salesman mouths drop...

I said don't touch it..I'll take car of it..
My wife said.... That proves it...He's crazy
Anyway , we waited 2 hours because they had only one finance officer on duty...
So the salesman came back to us and apologized for the wait and told us he'll throw in for free the exterior and interior protectant.
I said..No Thank You
My wife shook her head.

Now...

I washed the car and applied Opti-Seal...
I didn't clay because I didn't want any micro marring and then polish ..but with 13 miles, I'm sure it didn't need it.

Some questions...

1) Chrome Grill....I just washed it...can I use Opti-Seal on it?

2) Wheels.... I sprayed a diluted APC on tires and rims....
Is that enough to protect from brake dust and any damage later on?

3) Interior... I want to protect the leather seats & dash from UV rays before summer kicks in.....I have Mothers VLR , Is this sufficient?


Thxs ( for now)

Mike
Click to expand...


I beg to differ :props:
 
Congrats on the new car! Smart man to not let them touch it.
Now, I understand its new and has a few miles, BUT, was it sitting out in a lot for some time? Yes, its new, but it can still get contaminants on the car. (I bought a new care last May, 24 miles, had contaminants.) Do the Baggy test to get a real "feel" for it
Prep is key, You did your 1st part on not letting them touch it, why not do the 2nd part and make sure its "surgically" clean before using a good product on it.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...nspect-above-surface-bonded-contaminants.html

This may provide value, "How to detail your brand new car-Mike Phillips"
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...-detail-your-brand-new-car-mike-phillips.html

with that all being said..

1) I don't see why you can't. Again, I recommend proper prep steps (clay)

2)APC will clean it, but wont protect. Looks for a Wheel Sealant or a coating. I'm sure people will chime in soon on this. But per AG description on product: "Opti-Seal is not a short-cut product. It is a state-of-the-art, stand-alone spray sealant that provides real, durable protection for paint, plastic trim, and wheels." (I guess that answers number 1)

3) I won't give advice on leather seats as my seats are cloth and I have never used anything, so I have no "hands on" experience. As for the dash, you will hear a lot of recommendations.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/73751-best-vinyl-dash-protectant-2.html

I personally use Meguairs #40, I love it.
Meguiars #40<br>Vinyl & Rubber Cleaner/Conditioner protects rubber, plastic & vinyl interior surfaces. Meguiars # 40 Vinyl & Rubber Cleaner and

Hope this helps, enjoy!
 
Just because your car has 13 miles on it. I'm sure it needs to be clayed not matter how much you think it doesn't. Also, applying any LSP on a car not clayed or polished, your just wasting your product.
 
your wife should learn what happens when you let the dealer touch it. The salesmens mouth should not have dropped, he did it because you would have paid at first for the chemicals for the car
 
mikesal57 said:
Hi All..

A week ago I got a brand new 2014 Honda Pilot...

While at the dealer and finalizing the deal , I told them to NOT TO TOUCH OR WASH THE CAR !!

My wife and the salesman mouths drop...

I said don't touch it..I'll take car of it..
My wife said.... That proves it...He's crazy
Anyway , we waited 2 hours because they had only one finance officer on duty...
So the salesman came back to us and apologized for the wait and told us he'll throw in for free the exterior and interior protectant.
I said..No Thank You
My wife shook her head.

Now...

I washed the car and applied Opti-Seal...
I didn't clay because I didn't want any micro marring and then polish ..but with 13 miles, I'm sure it didn't need it.

Some questions...

1) Chrome Grill....I just washed it...can I use Opti-Seal on it?

2) Wheels.... I sprayed a diluted APC on tires and rims....
Is that enough to protect from brake dust and any damage later on?

3) Interior... I want to protect the leather seats & dash from UV rays before summer kicks in.....I have Mothers VLR , Is this sufficient?


Thxs ( for now)

Mike
Click to expand...

I have a 2010 accord and 2012 pilot. Both leather. By far the best product I've used has been 303 aerospace for all trim and leather inside the car. Doesn't change the finish or leave a greasy feeling anywhere. Repels dust particles as well. Plus it's fantastic for UV protection. Anything that gets on the seats, or anywhere else for that matter, will wipe right off. Great product for the interior. It also doesn't leave an odor.
 
mikesal57 said:
I washed the car and applied Opti-Seal...
I didn't clay because I didn't want any micro marring and then polish ..but with 13 miles, I'm sure it didn't need it.

Some questions...

1) Chrome Grill....I just washed it...can I use Opti-Seal on it?

2) Wheels.... I sprayed a diluted APC on tires and rims....
Is that enough to protect from brake dust and any damage later on?

3) Interior... I want to protect the leather seats & dash from UV rays before summer kicks in.....I have Mothers VLR , Is this sufficient?
Click to expand...

Just got a 2009 Pilot for my wife last October--great vehicles!

When the Opti-Seal wears off, I'd clay it--you'd be surprised what may come off. It's good to do just in case. Get a light/medium clay bar if micro-marring worries you, you can always do a light polish after--Honda's have soft paint. I realized the latter after polishing with Megs UC last year and caught some very light spider-webs on it the other day.

1) I don't own Opti-Seal so not sure. Mine has a layer of DP Paint Coating on it.

2) APC is just for cleaning. I use Colli #845 on my wheels for protection and EcoTouch Tire Shine on the tires. You can use all kinds of waxes/sealants or a coating on the rims if you wish.

3) I use Mothers Leather Cleaner/Conditioner and VLR for the leather and it's worked great. This was my first car with leather though, so I don't have experience with a lot of other leather products. I also recommend tinting the driver/passenger seat windows in the future to help with UV ray exposure.
 
I agree with others that say that new cars, most of time at least, still need to be clayed. It's very easy and when using mild clay, like Sonus or Pinnacle, you won't have any marring. It's the transport of the car, rather than the driving, that deposits the fallout onto the paint.

For the interior, I like Ultima Interior Guard Plus+. Here's a review I did on it not too long ago.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-reviews/77180-review-ultima-interior-guard-plus.html
 
Hellspawn said:
Unless it was built just a few weeks ago and a very short transport to the lot, the vast majority of new cars need claying, even right off the lot. :) Opti-seal will just seal those bonded contaminants right in. Sorry...
Click to expand...

:iagree:and as most new cars spend time on a train to a central distribution point, so plenty of rail dust too. Do the baggie test, that's always an eye opener.
 
Guys..you were right on...it failed the baggie test :cry:

But its OK....

The car is now sealed against the weather and sun

I plan on doing a few panels at a time by

1) washing
2) claying
3) washing again
4) polishing
5) wax and seal

I don't have to worry about swirls or scratches so it shouldn't take long

One last thing about the wheels

After waxing or sealing them ,
How do you clean them on your next wash/washes?
Spray hose and dry?
or APC and dry?
or APC and wax/seal again? ( I hope not this again)

Will APC take off any protectants or is there another product that will clean and wont remove wax?

Thxs

mike
 
APC will definitely strip or at the least weaken the sealant on the wheels. Since you are sealing the wheels and plan to wash frequently, you shouldn't need anything other than car soap to scrub them clean. If the car soap isn't enough to get them clean it's time to APC and re-seal.

:detailer:
 
Congrats on the new ride:)

If it was me I'd do the following

Wash the car, two bucket method with a good car soap of your choice.
Instead of buying a clay bar kit do as I did, buy yourself an Autoscrub Handy Towel, I bought the 7x7", you can fold it and fits perfect in the palm of your hand, price, $25.00 and will do 50 cars, so they say.
After removing the contaminates , trust me when I say you'll have some.
You could coat the paint using one of my favorites, the Wolfgang Glossy Paint Sealant, if you want to save some money but still get good protection put two coats of Collinite 845 Insulator Wax, of course let in cure before adding the second coat.

To maintain the paint from there and also your wheels use the Duragloss Aquawax 951 spray wax/sealant.


Here's what I'm planning soon as I heal from my surgery on my 2008 black RAV4.......


Wash using Chemical Guys Maxi-Suds.
Use my handy prep towel to remove any contaminants I may or may not have.
Polish using the Meguiar's 205 Ultra Fine Polish using my DA along with a black finishing pad.
Clean the car again using the DP Rinse-Less Wash.
Apply a thin coat of Wolfgang Glossy Paint Sealant.
After 24 hours of cure time I'd apply two thin coats of Collinite 845.
Then apply the Duragloss Aquawax 951 to the entire car, including the glass and wheels.

From there I'd maintain it using the 845.
I'd have enough protection to last well through the hot summer months.
 
Thxs Mark :props:

Hi Swirls..
I already have some of those products that I use on my 2009 Rav4
I have the nanoskin Towel
Meg 205
Col 845
Opti-Seal
Wolfgang Liquid Seal
And Optimum NR with Wax

This winter was real rough on my RAV
There's lots of work for me coming up..

GET BETTER!!!

Mike
 
mark6614 said:
APC will definitely strip or at the least weaken the sealant on the wheels. Since you are sealing the wheels and plan to wash frequently, you shouldn't need anything other than car soap to scrub them clean. If the car soap isn't enough to get them clean it's time to APC and re-seal.

:detailer:
Click to expand...

:iagree: Just use the car shampoo you use on the paint for the wheels and a cleaner like Mothers Wheel & Tire (which is BOSS) for the tires.
 
Hi, congrats on new car! Also, you've done well asking dealership not to touch it. I enjoyed reading your wife's and dealer reactions, very funny written!


Indeed, I will have to be one more on the crowd 'against' you about skipping the claying step...

Please, don't get me wrong, I'm here to help you learn from your mistake, not to put you down. Now you just need to take your time and do things the right way.

Claying alone (IMO) is the most drastic improvement (if let alone) car's paint can benefit of. And even new cars need claying, because Above Surface Contaminants are very likely to be embedded at car's paint (even a brand new one), they will hide the shine and let surface with a harsh feeling.

Also, I'm not here to criticize baggie test, I know it has its place, but how everything in life evolves, I'm leaning towards the 'Nanoskin Test'.

Why the Nanoskin Test?

You can feel the contaminants using a Nanoskin device (towel, mitt, sponge, etc) just like while doing the bag test. However, using a nanoskin you diagnose and treat contaminated areas at the same time.

How to conduct the Nanoskin Test?

After thorough washing your car - while the vehicle still wet, you may use a slick car soap on a sprayer bottle, and spray soap over a section (I start at the roof).

(***If your nanoskin is brand new, you may need to 'break it in' on glass first, but that just means you will clay all the glass prior claying paint).

Pass the Nanoskin device of choice over the section using straight line (not circular) movement to feel contamination (you will be removing them at same time).

(***Nanoskin needs more lube than conventional clay, but you also will 'GLIDE' the nanoskin over surface, not 'SCRUB' it).

At the same time you feel light contamination, do some front/back or side/side passes until you feel surface smooth. It's that simple.

You just move through entire car the same way, giving more 'emphasis' where you find more contaminants. Emphasis here means more passes, not more pressure or scrubbing. If harsh contaminants are found in one area, do front to back passes, then side to side until you feel the smoothness.

This process is not very time consuming, yet it will be responsible for letting your finish smooth and reflective as glass. It will also make your polishing step (if needed) easier and safer, also will benefit your LSP when bonding to decontaminated paint.

Trust me, you'll be surprised that even a new cars may have little to no contaminants in one area, but will have harsh embedded contaminants over another.

Like I don't always do bag test to entire car, generally I was missing this info. Just like I do nanoskin over entire vehicle after washing, (it's a very straightforward process), I can find and remove contaminants in this single stage.

Nanoskin (just like clay) may leave surface marring, but the level of marring will depend on lube used, user technique, and finish 'softness'.

That means you will not be able to skip at least one step of refining to let the finish in a perfect fashion.

I'd suggest a finishing pad using a very fine cutting polish (i.e: Gray finishing pad paired with Menzerna SF4000 / 4500, or M205, etc) or even a polishing pad (i.e: white polishing pad) paired with a paint cleansing polish, like DP coating prep polish or Pinnacle Black Label surface cleansing polish (my favorite). Those last are non-abrasive products, so you benefit from the 'pad pick' to get rid of marring while thoroughly cleaning surface to receive your LSP of choice.

Sure you can use SF4000 on polishing pad, my examples above are just ideas of what can be done.

I beg you please do not read my message in a literal way, like the right or best way to do things.

I've just 'thrown out' some ideas that you may think about, using several keywords for you to search after, so you can decide better what will work for you.

Hope I've helped,

Kind Regards.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top