Automatic Car Washes when Hand Washing isn't an Option?

I have a black audi dd I use a touchless carwash on it when it is to cold for a hand wash. it does a surprisingly good job. it is about 1 mile from my house this gives me enough distance for the drive to git rid of most of the water I then park it in garage works great. the wash is only $3.50 for the basic which is all I use don't need or want all the extras just a undercarriage wash and good wash and rinse. seems to be working great. the 2 coats of collinite 476 on it helps tremendously.
 
Get a better LSP then. None of the cars with a paint coating will be effected.

I would like to see some tests on that.... I doubt a coating would hold up that much better if the car wasn't washed a lot in the winter.

They still have to be maintained.....

That junk they use on the roads is very corrosive....
 
Hell, I just use a automatic car wash. My concern is a clean car . There is a new car wash in town and I use it. I have to tell you that I dont see any scratches , beleive me I look . Two friends of mine have black cars , one Chevy and one Caddy , and they both look great . They both go to this car wash all the time.


It will vary per wash, but keep in mind that all the dirt that gets picked up from the wheels and wheels wells builds up on the mops/bristles and it will damage your paint. Obviously cars in the snow belt will tend to be dirtier so someone down south probably won't see as much damage from one as we do up here.

Prime example:

These are pictures from a brand new 2014 Audi S4. The owner took delivery in November, declined the dealer prep, and when I inspected it in November it had ZERO swirls in the paint and only a few random scuffs in a couple locations that needed to be addressed prior to applying Opti-Coat Pro. During my evaluation of the car I also discussed proper care and even emailed the owner several articles on proper washing, the use of ONR and so on...

Fast forward to last weekend when the owner dropped the car off, I immediately noticed the damage in the paint and I asked him right away if he took the vehicle through an automatic car wash (touch). He said yes, but only ONCE because the lines at the touch-less were too long!!!

Well, here is what ONE automatic car wash did to his brand new $62,000 car! It also resulted in much more correction work for me, resulting in a much higher bill for the owner!



 
I would like to see some tests on that.... I doubt a coating would hold up that much better if the car wasn't washed a lot in the winter.

They still have to be maintained.....

That junk they use on the roads is very corrosive....

So here'd my unedumacated understanding,

Coatings are more resistant to degreasers and other chemicals that will break down traditional LSP's. A dawn wash or IPA/CarPro wipedown is considered an effective way to remove waxes, sealants, and polish residue; but are not considered in any way harmful to a coating. In my limited understanding.

Most touchless automatics use heavy duty degreaser-type car wash chemicals because A) they can be bought cheaply and B) they will break down road grime without touching the car. Most people who use a touchless want their car to be clean when they leave it. They are probably not even concerned about swirls, but are concerned about major physical damage that can sometimes happen with brushed car washes (such as knocked off mirrors, damaged antennas, etc.). Those of us who just want the bulk knocked off before doing a rinseless/waterless or who just want to tide over until it breaks above freezing are in the minority. So, the best way to accomplish that is with some heavy duty chemicals.

A buddy of mine has a Red Dodge Avenger that he bought last year. He runs it through a brush automatic about once a week. It looks sort of orange and faded now, and the swirls are so bad you can see them across the street. (I know because last week I stopped by his house, parked across the street, and could see the swirls in his car in the driveway!). He doesn't wax it, wipe it down at home, or do anything else. The only touching that paint gets, is the weekly automatic car wash. So I can only infer that the automatic wash he uses damages cars. It's likely that others do too. When I watch a salt-and-grit laden car enter the bay, followed by another, and another, SURELY not all of that grit is off of the brushes, especially since there appears to be no system in the mechanism for cleaning the brushes. You could scratch a car with the finest Microfiber towel Korea knows how to make if it were dirty. We wouldn't DREAM of putting a dirty microfiber towel, full of grit, on our paint. So why would we EVER consider allowing a high speed, rotating brush that sits outside smack against out car without ever being cleaned?

One of the reasons I intend to go with a coating in the spring when it warms up, is so I can use the touchless automatic instead of the coin op (I just use a high pressure rinse at the coin op). As it is now, I am concerned that I don't know what they use in the touchless. Could be dawn for all I know. Could be perfectly harmless, could strip my wax and sealant immediately. Because I don't know, I won't use it. With a coating, that concern is gone.

I wonder, for those of you who are at least above freezing, why not do a touchless 'at home'? Granted, it's the issue of dragging out the hose that you may have stored for the winter, but a foam gun followed by a rinse is probably better than the touchless as you'll be using better products. If you're doing a touchless anyway, then just skip the buckets and wash mitts and knock it off with a pressure rinse followed by foam gun followed by second pressure rinse!
 
How you wash the car is the key to keeping it nice. We all do something different in this realm. I for one never wash my show cars with water. My daily driver will NEVER see the inside of a sand-wash if you will. I am dead serious. In the last 40 years I have seen despicable damage done at a CW. No thanks.....I just say they do keep me busy in the correction department. Use a wash that lets you do it. PERIOD!!! Its real important where dark colors are involved, and this is all my opinion of course. No rip-washes for me. Mar-wash would be more like it.
 
I have pic after pic I can show you....but the bottom line is a CW will rip your finish to shreds. Correction is never easy after you subject the finish to this cannibalism....there is no other way to state it. In fact that may be understated and its a shame. because people ask me continually about this. I wish I could endorse the C Ws. Again more of my opinion.
 
I would endure slow torture, rather than see my Sapphire blue XK-R go through a C W, or any of my show cars which are black.
 
I use a coin op to wash the crud off, just the water, none of that soap stuff as it spots up the finished. The on the weekends I do a rinseless wash.
Since like so many of you have said, the Auto washes are bad, is taking the coin op spray and kneeling down and spraying under the truck good for the undercarriage?
 
If you don't have access to a garage the touc-free is the best option but keep in mind that since its touc-free the car will not be completely clean. In all my years of using them I've noticed the windows NEVER come clean, this is why I always use the squeegee to clean all the windows first, then spray some wheel cleaner/tire cleaner/APC on those and then run it through. Now, you may be tempted to dry the car but DO NOT DO THIS, the dirt is still there, especially if the car is VERY DIRTY/SALTY, just let it be. One good thing about a touch-free if you get the best of one just below it is the underbody wash, this is so important where the roads are salted.

Now when its sunny and 35 outside a rinseless wash is the best choice, pre-treating is key, Aqua sponge, mf wash mitt or good grout sponge for washing, 2 buckets and a pair of grit guards are key. The GD method is also option, lots of info on that as well but if you can get into a garage that's insulated and/or you can have heat, this is the best way to go but the use of a quarter wash is key before had or the previously mentioned touch-free is key before the rinseless wash.

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Oh man, so true on the drying after touchless. I was at the coin-op one morning to give my car a rinse-down and saw a guy in the parking lot with a black Lexus RX drying with bath towels (they have a couple touchless bays at my coin-op). I just shook my head. Felt like rolling down the window to ask that guy if I can fix his paint this spring because of what he is doing to it right at that very moment. But, to be fair, before I learned about all this stuff, I did the same thing.
 
I would like to see some tests on that.... I doubt a coating would hold up that much better if the car wasn't washed a lot in the winter.

They still have to be maintained.....

That junk they use on the roads is very corrosive....

I suggest you look into coatings, because they aren't damaged by the stuff they use on the roads. Yes they have to be washed which is why I hand wash them.
 
I went to a touchless car wash today; it was my first time. I felt like I was paying for a prostitute: It was discrete and felt good, but in the end, I realized the car was still dirty...
 
It sounds like if you are this worried about your car that you will most likely correct in spring anyhow - so be lazy for a winter, take a day when the birds and bees come out and bring her back to life. Even touchless carwashes IMO aren't good for your car - they use the most aggressive and cheapest soaps available which will strip all your protection and wear down your plastics.
 
Get a better LSP then. None of the cars with a paint coating will be effected.

Its all personal preference and I prefer a sealer topped with carnauba finish more so than a coating. Not going to change what looks good to my eye because of the crap they put on the roads. I'll just put on another coat of my favorite LSP.
 
I've gone entirely to touchless car washes in the winter. I have a coating and the touchless soaps have no negative effect whatsoever plus I get the undercarriage washed.

If you like foaming with a foam canon, a good touchless car wash is exactly the same. It foams the car down, then after a minute it washes it with high pressure then rinses again, then dries with a blast of air. It gets. 95% of everything off and with a daily driver in winter that's good enough. Once it's over 45 degrees I wash the car myself as usual.

I've also used touchless car washes in the winter with a sealant without having a negative effect on the LSP namely DG 105.


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I've gone entirely to touchless car washes in the winter. I have a coating and the touchless soaps have no negative effect whatsoever plus I get the undercarriage washed.

If you like foaming with a foam canon, a good touchless car wash is exactly the same. It foams the car down, then after a minute it washes it with high pressure then rinses again, then dries with a blast of air. It gets. 95% of everything off and with a daily driver in winter that's good enough. Once it's over 45 degrees I wash the car myself as usual.

I've also used touchless car washes in the winter with a sealant without having a negative effect on the LSP namely DG 105.


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Actually, using a foam cannon is a little different from a touch-less wash in that the soaps we use in a foam cannons are nowhere near as harsh as the ones used in touch-less washes....but the concept is the same. ;)

If fact, most car washes will actually adjust the strength of their cleaners depending on the time of year and weather. The harsh soaps/pre-rinse cleaners they use can and will discolor some trim over time.

Coatings like Opti-Coat do seem impervious to these strong chemical cleaners, but touch-less wash are not getting the paint completely clean either and any dirt that is left on the paint will start to bond to it, accumulating over time, and will eventually require a decon and/or claying to remove. This is why I always suggest my clients always try and follow up with a rinse less wash afterwards as their needs to be some agitation in order to get all the dirt off.


This vehicle saw regular touch-less washings....



Another example of touch-less washing damage on trim over time
98_Nav_before_035.jpg
 
I guess its best not to generalize about touchless car washes as they aren't created equal. The one I use is very unique. It makes two passes with foam before HP rinse...thats two passes...which is more than I do when doing it myself. It then does two HP rinse passes and one "spotless" rinse before blasting the car with air. It vibrates the car the air is so powerful and its completely dry other than the usual hard to get areas.

I also do not use the wax option....just foam, HP wash, rinse, dry. The coating does make a big difference.
 
I guess its best not to generalize about touchless car washes as they aren't created equal. The one I use is very unique. It makes two passes with foam before HP rinse...thats two passes...which is more than I do when doing it myself. It then does two HP rinse passes and one "spotless" rinse before blasting the car with air. It vibrates the car the air is so powerful and its completely dry other than the usual hard to get areas.

I also do not use the wax option....just foam, HP wash, rinse, dry. The coating does make a big difference.

No doubt! There is one at a local BP gas station to me that is one of the best I've seen and sounds similar to the one you describe. The blow dry is actually attached to the moving wash too and makes a pass down and then back over your car, much better than the one direction blow dry as you drive out. The time it takes to wash is more than double most and the lines are always super long, so I usually hit the lesser washes closer to home. :/
 
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