Autowerx CeriGlass Guide

I tried again yesterday/last night. I lowered my expectations, changed my method a little, and decided this was not going to be a normal 2 hour job and is going to take a long time with a lot of hard work. Results were much better. First I used more polish and put it directly on the wiper scratches as well as the pad. I concentrated on smaller areas, maybe a 6-8 inch line at most, kept wetting it to keep the polish working for longer and just went over it several times more. I was able to get rid of closer to 75% of the scratches with this method but occasionally under the right angle I would still see some stubborn scratches that remained but my windshield is much closer to being scratch free. Unfortunately the hail/rock chips/pits really show up now and my windshield looks like a star map, hopefully some rubbing alcohol will get rid of some of the white polish stuck in those pits making it an eyesore. In all you can get decent results with this method with a DA, these pads, and polish but it is a lot of work, messy, and don't expect results like you get with polishing paint. It was tough enough to get my very light wiper scratches out only visible at certain angles under garage lights so I am not sure how effective this would be on more serious scratches. I am pretty happy though with finally getting most of these scratches out.
 
Can we get a link to these CarPro glass pads? What is the exact name for this pads? Seems to me I can't find it. Thanks
 
very nice write up

i have the same problem with my corvette 1998 front windshield

it has alot of scratches
so i ordered ceriglass and glass pad and used the PCXP but i barely removed swirls

and i dont have a rotary polisher but in my country there are some shops that rent rotaries for few bucks (3 bahraini dinars) for a day

and i will definitely try this method

thanks man
 
Thanks Nicholas. I have some minor wiper scratch and will try your method.:thumbup:
 
Thanks for the info, I will try to find these products with our local suppliers.

In the meantime, from what I understand the glass cutting pads are super aggressive, much more than standard MF or Foam pads right? So I should use the most aggressive pads I have?

As for the glass compound, I assume it is more abrasive than paint rubbing compound? So if I use M105, that would be fine, no risk of damaging or maring the glass?

I have no need to correct the glass, just want to get it really clean before applying a sealant or Rain-X.

Time to go shopping ;)
 
Calendyr said:
Thanks for the info, I will try to find these products with our local suppliers.

In the meantime, from what I understand the glass cutting pads are super aggressive, much more than standard MF or Foam pads right? So I should use the most aggressive pads I have?

As for the glass compound, I assume it is more abrasive than paint rubbing compound? So if I use M105, that would be fine, no risk of damaging or maring the glass?

I have no need to correct the glass, just want to get it really clean before applying a sealant or Rain-X.

Time to go shopping ;)
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If you aren't using the CarPro glass pads you will want to use the most aggressive foam pad you have. The only reason is because you need the foam to be firm enough to withstand the pressure needed to correct defects in the glass without totally flattening out. You shouldn't have to worry about marring the glass when using foam. Actually, since switching to the CarPro glass pads I have not experienced any marring and haven't had to use any more foam pads. THEY ARE INCREDIBLE.

Since you aren't really trying to level down scratches even something like M105 might work. Depending on how bad the glass is (type 3 water spots, wiper haze, etc.) CeriGlass will make your life SO MUCH easier though.

T3 AutoDetails said:
Great review my friend great review :applause:
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Thanks bro! I'm working on a job right now that I would have had to refuse if I didn't have the knowledge and experience learned on this very forum. :props:
 
Thanks. I asked Jeff at Old Town to get these products for me. In the meantime I will use Heavy Cutting Pad with M105.
 
Congrats Nicholas, was the best tuto I read so far, a very simple english, finally a easy explanation ! is helping me alot my friend.

btw gives your opinion and Sr Mike, please at my post here
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
***Moved to How To Articles Forum Group*****


Just to note, Nicholas I moved your thread to a more appropriate forum group.


Nice work...

:dblthumb2:
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Thanks Mike! I'm glad it still seems like this thread is helping people figure out a well tested plan of attack for their glass polishing projects.

telmomassa said:
Congrats Nicholas, was the best tuto I read so far, a very simple english, finally a easy explanation ! is helping me alot my friend.

btw gives your opinion and Sr Mike, please at my post here
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Thank you for the kind words! I'm glad you are finding this guide helpful. I left you a comment on your original thread about the truck windshield. Good luck!! :dblthumb2:

Here is a 50/50 of my last water spot removal job using the same exact methods outlined in this guide.

2013-07-08_22_00_01.jpg
 
Nicholas@Autowerx said:
Word of advice: It is CRITICAL to use overlapping passes and alternate the direction of the polisher. When you are correcting deep scratches you are removing glass and it can cause a "warped effect" when looking through the glass. This problem is solved by overlapping each pass and alternating the direction of each pass while you work.
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As I just picked up some CeriGlass, and now need to pick up the CarPro pads, I need some clarification on this critical advice for maintaining optical clarity.

Alternate direction as in reverse parallel passes (L/R, R/L, L/R, R/L), or alternate direction as in perpendicular passes (L/R, U/D, L/R, U/D)?

Everything's relative, eh? Thanks for the great write-up, very informative.
 
TheFrankenberry said:
As I just picked up some CeriGlass, and now need to pick up the CarPro pads, I need some clarification on this critical advice for maintaining optical clarity.

Alternate direction as in reverse parallel passes (L/R, R/L, L/R, R/L), or alternate direction as in perpendicular passes (L/R, U/D, L/R, U/D)?

Everything's relative, eh? Thanks for the great write-up, very informative.
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This advice is less imperative with the CarPro pads (compared to the LC cutting discs) as they are easier to work with and much more forgiving, especially with a DA polisher.

If you are working to level scratches you will want to alternate up, down, left, right in the same fashion that you machine polish paint. This will significantly lessen the potential to leave distortion waves in the glass, as is the case if, for example, you do not overlap and only work in up/down motions.

telmomassa said:
last photo looks like a photoshop edition....:laughing:

congrats!
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Haha! Just a low res cell phone pic. :buffing:
 
Nicholas@Autowerx said:
Deeper scratches take a lot of time to level out... especially with a DA!
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Key words above being... lot of time


Over the weekend a wiper blade flew off my wife's Honda and left some scratches in the passenger side windshield. I would NOT call these deep scratches in the sense that most people think of when they think of the word deep but when it comes to GLASS any scratch that's not a scuff is deep.

Anyway, just tried the CarPro Rayon pads with the Ceriglass using a Porter Cable and in about 30 minutes with very slow overlapping passes and a whole lot of passes following the path of the deep scratches I removed the scratches out of 1/4 of the windshield.

Nicholas tip on using a water spray with a pump that atomizez the spray was spot-on too as this really helps to cut down on the splatter. Even so, it's a good idea to tape all rubber/plastic/vinyl trim off and anything esle you don't want to wipe splatter off after the fact.


:)
 
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