Back to using a rotary.

HateSwirls

HateSwirls

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Good afternoon Geeks:dblthumb2:

30 years ago I picked up my first rotary, pretty much all we had back then along with wool pads and 3M products and Meg's.
I continued to use my rotary until about two years ago then started using a DA, it felt better then working with my big wheel due to age, yeah I got older. Lol

But lately I've been doing more cars for people, getting paid to correct their cars.
One of the trucks I had to do was really trashed, using my DA took longer, more passes, slower arm speed, etc.
So I took out my wheel and some compound and started buffing it out, the first thing I noticed was how much faster it was and better results so I continued using my rotary.
Saves on the arms because you use little pressure, it flashes much faster, wipe off and move on to the next panel.

Only difference now compared to back in the day is the foam and MF pads we have now, much improved.
It can and does cut my work almost in half so why not use the big wheel?

I still have my 3M double sided wool pad for those trashed finishes but in most cases not needed.
Still plan on using my DA just less of it:dblthumb2:
 
I once was a rotary user...gradually started getting away from them in the mid-1980's.
(Gave my last one away a couple years ago.)

Going forward from there...DA's seemed a safer bet for me to use on OEM BC/CC.
But the extra effort/time involved in "paint corrections", let alone factoring in their so unwonted vibrations,
has caused their usage by me nowadays to become near prohibitive.

That's why the RUPES line-up of polishers sound so tempting.
Either those..or a lightweight Flex...if I'm to continue taking care of our vehicles as I once did.

:)

Bob
 
I like to use both. I can whiz around a vehicle with a rotary and get most defects knocked out much quicker than using a DA. I like to then go back around with my DA to pull out whatever remaining defects there are and create a nice swirl free gloss. The only thing I still battle with is slinging product all over the place with the rotary....never fails :D
 
My rotary seems to be used for spinning pads dry after washing them more than anything haha. Since using my flex3401 I haven't had much need for a rotary. I'm working on 99% factory paint too, safety first!
 
so many options these days and you gotta use what's right for the job...
 
If you can get a hologram free finish then your good to go :)
 
I learned on rotary and used one for years. I bought a new Dewalt two years ago for 80% off from a body shop. They couldn't get rid of it. No one wanted it. I use it now and then for old time sake. But I truly believe Rupes is the final nail in the rotary's coffin.
 
TundraPower said:
I learned on rotary and used one for years. I bought a new Dewalt two years ago for 80% off from a body shop. They couldn't get rid of it. No one wanted it. I use it now and then for old time sake. But I truly believe Rupes is the final nail in the rotary's coffin.
Click to expand...

I have not used the Rupes but I kind of doubt anything beats a rotary and wool pad on fiberglass. Am I mistaken ?.

Dave
 
IMHO, a DA MF pad cannot come close to the cutting power of a DA and rotary. If you are doing more than one stage polish, use a shovel and not a spoon to dig a hole. DA is great for finishing on the other hand.
 
FUNX725 said:
I once was a rotary user...gradually started getting away from them in the mid-1980's.
(Gave my last one away a couple years ago.)

Going forward from there...DA's seemed a safer bet for me to use on OEM BC/CC.
But the extra effort/time involved in "paint corrections", let alone factoring in their so unwonted vibrations,
has caused their usage by me nowadays to become near prohibitive.

That's why the RUPES line-up of polishers sound so tempting.
Either those..or a lightweight Flex...if I'm to continue taking care of our vehicles as I once did.

:)

Bob
Click to expand...

Bob, Have you considered a Cyclo polisher? They're supposed to have very minimal, if any, vibration.
 
Paul Mitchell said:
Bob, Have you considered a Cyclo polisher? They're supposed to have very minimal, if any, vibration.
Click to expand...
Yes I have...Thanks for asking.
Used one of a friend of mine once and liked it a whole lot.
I'll have to keep that polisher in mind also.

Thanks for the reminder! :xyxthumbs:

Bob
 
Kengo123 said:
Holograms come out fairly easy with a da my man!
Click to expand...
:iagree:...... but remember that they were *put* there by a rotary. ;)

Which goes back to; if you know how to, and feel comfortable, and more importantly are SKILLED with a rotary then use it for your first step. Afterwards you'll need your trusty DA to clean up the leftovers and get to the 'finish' line.

This is what "professional detailers" did to a brand new paint job.

The hood actually wasn't painted, they just screwed it up because they could I guess. (It was a replacement crash part that was swirled up.)




The entire right side though was all brand new. Even before it was washed, from 2 weeks of driving in the rain you could see buffer trails & holograms from 50 feet! :rolleyes:
(This is after it was washed, before it was Nanoskinned & clayed.)


After a 2-step correction:
 
I still want to learn to use the rotary, but keep wondering if I just shouldn't buy a Rupes...
 
davidc said:
I have not used the Rupes but I kind of doubt anything beats a rotary and wool pad on fiberglass. Am I mistaken ?.

Dave
Click to expand...

Rupes with the same wool may beat it, but there are "some" instances where I find a rotary is faster to cut. Mostly deep scratches.
 
If you use a white pad along with m205 you can get a perfect finish.
What causes holograms is using an aggressive compound and pad.
When doing just one step using the 205 and a white pad it comes out flawless.
Don't get me wrong, it's hard not using my GG6, it does a nice job:)
 
wool pad and a rotary is almost a must when working with gel coats IMO anyway.
 
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