Before I start picking up a DA polisher I have a lot of unanswered questions ...

Whatever you go with, Porter Cable, Griots, HF, whatever, I'd strongly suggest going with thin pads from whatever manufacturer you choose. They work very well with the short throw polishers.
 
^ couldn't agree more with pilotpip. Get as many as you can afford.
 
pilotpip said:
Whatever you go with, Porter Cable, Griots, HF, whatever, I'd strongly suggest going with thin pads from whatever manufacturer you choose. They work very well with the short throw polishers.
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The thin pads do work very good with the 8mm polishers.

However, you can get some very excellent results with standard (7/8") pads as well.

dlc95 turned me on to his "light touch" technique on the PC, and I swear, it really works.

Kudos again to you, Dan!
 
I thought the thicker foam pads helped protect the paint from newbies pressing too hard as they cushion somewhat.

Unfortunately, I need to scrap the whole idea of using a DA as we hit a bump in the road and no extra money for "fun" stuff! ��
 
I started out using the thick pads and a Porter Cable 7424XP. The thinner pads do a much better job and they let the machine do the work for you. It is not necessary to press that hard where you need more cushion. The Griots GG6 has more usable power than the Porter Cable and a smoother running machine. You can occasionally find a sale where you can get the GG6 for less than $130.00.
 
Wanna Learn said:
I thought the thicker foam pads helped protect the paint from newbies pressing too hard as they cushion somewhat.

Unfortunately, I need to scrap the whole idea of using a DA as we hit a bump in the road and no extra money for "fun" stuff! ��
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Sorry to hear that.

Unless the clear is really thin, and you run nonstop on an edge it's going to be difficult to damage your paint with any of the modern polishes and a short throw machine. The PC stalls with even the slightest extra pressure. If you have uneven pressure, it stalls. If you get to an edge and don't ease up, it stalls. Thicker pads work just fine (I have a bunch of CCS pads) but the thin pros work a lot better. By better I mean I usually see the results I want with 4 or 5 passes vs 5 or 6. I have a truck and a large SUV, that extra pass can mean a couple hours when you multiply it over all those sections you're working one at a time.
 
PaulMys said:
The thin pads do work very good with the 8mm polishers.

However, you can get some very excellent results with standard (7/8") pads as well.

dlc95 turned me on to his "light touch" technique on the PC, and I swear, it really works.

Kudos again to you, Dan!
Click to expand...

Thanks, Paul!
 
For a basic, entry level tool that can easily be used in a professional situation, I'm partial to the Porter Cable 7424, or the 7424xp. I've used the HF d/a, and the Griot's. I my opinion they're too similar to make me want to give up the PC. To find something really different I look to a a machine with a larger orbit stroke, or forced rotation. You could definitely start with something like a Flex 3401 if you wanted, but I thing something like the PC or GG6 would do just fine.

I use the standard Buff and Shine grip pads, or Lake Country Hydrotech. I do like the thin pads, but again, not different enough for me to make a wholesale change.
 
Wanna Learn said:
I thought the thicker foam pads helped protect the paint from newbies pressing too hard as they cushion somewhat.
Click to expand...


This is true.

With the thin pads on the market, Lake Country, Meguiar's and Griot's options, the backing plate is VERY CLOSE to the paint.


In my detailing classes, I stick with thicker pads for the 8mm free spinning tools, which are the FIRST tools covered in all my classes for the simple reason of safety. I bring in a LOT of cool cars for people to learn on and I never know the experience or skill level of the people attending the classes.

What's more important is for everyone to build a foundation of best practices and proper technique and I can teach that using either Lake Country 7/8" Flat Pads, which still rotate great on entry level tools or the Buff and Shine Uro Tech pads. The B&S pads are a tick thicker than the Lake Country Flat pads but because I predominantly show the Griot's 6" ROP for the first tool of the class, this tool has more than enough power to spin these pads.


Here's something on thin pads from 2010 - car detailing history....


Thin is in...



:)
 
Wanna Learn said:
Unfortunately, I need to scrap the whole idea of using a DA as we hit a bump in the road and no extra money for "fun" stuff!
Click to expand...


No problem.... maybe down the road. Regardless, your thread will now be read by thousands of people via Google Search Engine results plus forum searching and even just happenstance....


I always type for the future, never the moment, a technique that continues to serve me well as well as branding my own name and not a forum nickname especially as the OS for so many topics and even terms in this industry. :props:


So here's something for everyone that will find this thread into the future....



5.5" SUPER THIN FOAM PAD OPTIONS for your Dual Action Polisher



:)
 
As the proud owner of a high-dollar Flex polisher---I think they are unnecessary if your car's finish is in good condition.

Clay barring a car isn't that big of a deal. You don't need to nanoskin with a machine. These days they have very durable sealants that don't even need to be wiped on as a liquid. Just spray and wipe. As your post implies, there is going to be a certain amount of elbow grease anyway, depending on how conscientious you are being.

I love the look of a hard paste wax Collinite 476 on my car---but there are other options.

I guess I should add that there is a real temptation to start grinding away on your car's finish with a DA polisher. Not the machine's fault, but human nature and real.
 
In my old age I've gotten very pragmatic about how to use a polisher on my car that is kept in good shape. I use the polisher for the big wide open flat areas, then when I'm done, I take off the pad and use the pad manually to go in and around the badges and strong curves. It's worked for me for years. I don't really sweat the small stuff anymore. I only polish once a year.
 
Thanks for all the replies! I do appreciate the effort all of you made to help me understanding this.

I started thinking about polishing the car(s) when I bought my 2018 Sonata 2 months ago and noticed it has spidering in the paint and doesn't really pop (it is a metal flake black). I haven't owned a black car in over 30 years but do like the look when they are shining.

My other cars consist of a 2016 white Ford Edge that the dealer put a Simonize coating on and claims it'll protect it for years (I doubt it) but I have been trying to keep up with it using Mequiar's Ultimate liquid wax - that car shows nothing! And I have a 2010 red Hyundai Elantra that my son drives that can use probably a 2 step as it is dull as all heck ... his car, his problem :) but I figured also try to get that looking better if we could (has some clear coat issues on the handles). And get him to understand yes you have to wash and wax a car!

I'll continue to watch videos to "learn" so if someday circumstances change and I do get a DA I'll be almost ready!

Thanks again!
 
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