Beginner DA - Meguiars MF or 105/205?

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KneeDragr

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Looking over the reviews, it appears as though the Meguiars MF system produces very consistent correction results, and is user friendly.

However most of these reviews are from people with a lot of experience with a DA.

To a complete newbie, would you recommend this system or would a more traditional polish be an easier way to break into DA correction?

Also, if traditional polishes are suggested, would the ultimate compound / ultimate polish be a better place to start, or would their 205/105 ?
 
da system, is pretty basic. good enough for even the pro. if u dont want to use their wax, get a finer polish/finishing polish plus some 5.5inch flat pads.
 
KneeDragr said:
Looking over the reviews, it appears as though the Meguiars MF system produces very consistent correction results, and is user friendly.

However most of these reviews are from people with a lot of experience with a DA.

To a complete newbie, would you recommend this system or would a more traditional polish be an easier way to break into DA correction?

Also, if traditional polishes are suggested, would the ultimate compound / ultimate polish be a better place to start, or would their 205/105 ?
Click to expand...

At this time the Microfiber DA Correction System is only recommended for factory original paint, so keep that in mind. On re-paints there a chance of DA Haze or micro-marring.

That's not to say you can't buff out a body shop paint job, it just means you always want to TEST first to a small section before buffing out the entire car.



My personal thoughts on the topic and keep in mind I worked as the Primary Instructor for Meguiar's at their Corporate office from 2002 to 2009 before coming to Autogeek, is that foam pads are easier to learn how to machine polish with because they provide more cushion than the Microfiber DA Pads which don't offer a lot of cushion as they are very flat.

That's not to say a Newbie can learn to machine polish using these flatter, denser pads it's just to say all things being equal, there's certain comfort level provided by the extra cushion offered by foam pads not to mention foam edges versus a mixed edge on the side of the microfiber DA pads.


A very easy system to learn how to use is the Porter Cable 7424XP with 5.5" Lake Country Flat pads with any excellent quality swirls removers and polishes.

See this article,

The short how-to guide for using a DA Polisher
How to maximize the ability of the 1st Generation Porter Cable Dual Action Polishers


And,

DA Polisher Articles - Help for Newbies to Machine Polishing


I've been using the Porter Cable since it was introduced to the paint polishing world, (it's a wood sander), and it's possible I've taught more classes/people than most on how to use these tools for both polishing and sanding... for what it's worth...


:)
 
KneeDragr said:
Looking over the reviews, it appears as though the Meguiars MF system produces very consistent correction results, and is user friendly.

However most of these reviews are from people with a lot of experience with a DA.

To a complete newbie, would you recommend this system or would a more traditional polish be an easier way to break into DA correction?

Also, if traditional polishes are suggested, would the ultimate compound / ultimate polish be a better place to start, or would their 205/105 ?
Click to expand...

First, what is the car you're trying to polish? While all polishes and pads will do an excellent job with the right technique, some combos do make the job eaiser. For example, I (and others here) do like the diminishing abrasives in Wolfgang/Menzerna polishes for softer paints like on a Lexus or the ceramics like on Mercedes.

For GM, which is typically pretty hard, I like Megs UC/UP or 205/105. Really they're essentially the same thing, with the Ultimate line being the OTC version and a bit lighter in cut and longer work time. I use UC/UP or sometimes UC followed by Wolfgang Finishing Glaze. Excellent results.

I do want to try the DA MF system as it is reported a bit easier to learn and produces excellent results ON FACTORY PAINT. There has been some discussion as to whether it leaves more micro-marring on softer paints.

So like I said at first, what are you trying to do?
 
HeavyMetal said:
First, what is the car you're trying to polish?
Click to expand...

Well I have 2 DD's that need correction, and at some point I will probably need to correct my Corvette, which does not need it now.

My DD is a Honda CR-V, which I understand has soft paint, and my wife drives a Toyota Prius, of which I do not know the paint hardness. My car has worse paint because I ran it through a lot more car washes. My wife rarely gets her car washed ( even though I offer ), but its garage kept and she parks in a garage at work so the paint is in quite good shape.

However she was in an accident and the hood and bumper were partially repainted and the whole area was re-cleared. So sounds like no MF for it. I was also considering getting the CR-V wetsanded and re-cleared at some point since i understand Honda paint is very, very thin, and Ive been hand polishing it at least once a year.

So sounds like for my immediate needs, Wolfgang/Menzerna polishes would fit my needs. And for my Corvette, in the future when it needs it, I might go with the MF system since I understand Corvette clear coat is extremely hard.
 
Mike what makes it ok for factory paint and not recommended for repaints?

What makes it more susceptible to hazing?
 
Twister said:
Mike what makes it ok for factory paint and not recommended for repaints?

What makes it more susceptible to hazing?
Click to expand...

I don't know all the reasons but the general answer is because re-paints don't tend to be harder than factory paint.

I think theres more to it than the simple answer above because the paints sprayed on assembly lines is different than the paints sprayed at your local body shops.

Factory paint is also baked on at higher temperatures than those at the local body shop. I've been told temps can reach up to 300 degrees, of course this is before anything like plastic coated wiring, carpet, headliners, upholstery, etc is installed.


I always tell people what the product line is "intended" for because my background experience has taught me that while a product can be used any which way you want to try to use it, the chemist that creates the product will design and formulated a product for a specific target market and for the Microfiber DA System the target market is production detailing where the majority of the cars will have factory paint.

I've buffed two cars with single stage paint with no micro-marring issues but the key thing is I tested to a small area before buffing out the entire car.


This one I used foam pads instead of the microfiber pads... you know... the curiosity factor we detailers have by using products the wrong way to see what they'll do...


1972 Challenger - Foam Pads - Meguiar's Microfiber Compound & Polish/Wax - Single Stage Black Paint


GripStrenght006.jpg


1972Challenger0221.jpg





This 1959 Cadillac 2-door Coupe de Ville has single stage paint and it reacted very well to the Microfiber DA system. Again, I tested first before buffing out the entire car.

If you look closely, the paint on the passenger side fender is clear and glossy, that's because it was repainted with a basecoat/clearcoat system, the rest of the car has an older single stage paint that has dulled from oxidation and lack of any regular maintenance.

One of my goals was to maximize the gloss and clarity of the single stage paint surrounding the passenger fender so the car would have a uniform, clear, high gloss appearance.

I'll try to do the write-up for this car in the near future, this belonged to the Caddy King and I've heard he's since sold it.


Before
CaddyBeforeAfter01.jpg


After
CaddyBeforeAfter02.jpg




Just test first...


:xyxthumbs:
 
I have no doubt that the DA MF system can do re-paints if you know what you're doing and the re-paint was a quality job. Therein lies the prob. Even if you were fairly experienced, the MF system may not do a good job because the re-paint wasn't terribly good. What would I do? Might as well go the "tried and true" method using standard polishes and foam pads. It's rather easy to learn, Mike has dozens of articles and videos on it and it's pretty darn tough to screw up.

As far as polishes, I'd start with the WG/Menz line and pick up some Megs UC and UP when they're on sale at Wally World. BobbyG is well know here for his goregous yellow Vette. He's used just about everything under the sun and particularly recommends Menz. Shoot him a PM. I have no doubt he has the process for a Vette nailed to the floor. The WG/ Menz polishes should also more than handle the CRV and Prius.

Since your wife doesn't like to wash, I'd recommend one of the new super sealants like CQuartz or Optimum Opti-Coat. Opti-Coat is reportedly a bit tricker to apply (you have to make sure the coating is level) while CQ is a bit thinner coating (but you can layer). Both will do the job for a car that's not washed regularly. Get some experience polishing and using a regular sealant like Menz Powerlock and then do wifey's with one of those.
 
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