Best AIO?
- Thread starter OZD 35
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Meticulous-Detail
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- Nov 15, 2011
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Probably depends on the paint hardness. On a hard clear should be good to go, on soft paint ,like Honda, might get DA haze. Great thing about D151 just switch to a polish or finish pad and finish down nicely.
I have used D151 with a LC Orange (not the HT) and it finished down nicely on black Ford paint. Had an issue with D151 on black Honda paint and needed to switch from polishing pad to a finishing pad to finish down.
KBsToy
Active member
- Jul 4, 2011
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I use Zaino AIO on our car and van then put some fuzion on top. When I do a wash I spray detailer or some Lucas spray wax...JMO...
Also vehicles are light on color
01GreyStangGT
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- Aug 10, 2009
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I like PB Polish with Sealant and Blackfire TPnS.
I used the PwS after last winter and it cleared the swirls right up. You can 3-4 months durability out of it. The Blackfire I have always topped.
I used the PwS after last winter and it cleared the swirls right up. You can 3-4 months durability out of it. The Blackfire I have always topped.
Meticulous-Detail
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- Nov 15, 2011
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I like to combine D151 and DG 501 on the pad at a 1 to 1 ratio and then work the product, let dry to haze and buff off. I have had excellent results with this combo and good durability too.
I like to mix a little DG501 with some PBA601, 17.5-1. Also if there is a south or westerly wind, 2 spritzs of WD-40, the kind with the flip top can only. Then I top with some 845, followed by some FK1000P, and then usually some Max Wax or Fuzion, probably about 7 layers. Usually do an IPA wipedown half way to assure of good bonding. Then a little trick I picked up from a crackhead detailer on a street corner was to cover the car in a mixture of 1/2 pledge and 1/2 kerosene using an applicator pre-treated with Opticoat.
It's an AIO...leave it alone!!!! If you are doing two steps, you might as well use a quality polish and then top with a durable wax/sealant.
/end of rant....
It's an AIO...leave it alone!!!! If you are doing two steps, you might as well use a quality polish and then top with a durable wax/sealant.
/end of rant....
primo spaghetti
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- Jun 16, 2012
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I like to mix a little DG501 with some PBA601, 17.5-1. Also if there is a south or westerly wind, 2 spritzs of WD-40, the kind with the flip top can only. Then I top with some 845, followed by some FK1000P, and then usually some Max Wax or Fuzion, probably about 7 layers. Usually do an IPA wipedown half way to assure of good bonding. Then a little trick I picked up from a crackhead detailer on a street corner was to cover the car in a mixture of 1/2 pledge and 1/2 kerosene using an applicator pre-treated with Opticoat.
It's an AIO...leave it alone!!!! If you are doing two steps, you might as well use a quality polish and then top with a durable wax/sealant.
/end of rant....
hehe :whs:
For the most part I use spray waxes on my car , and it keeps my car looking top notch , but 3 times a year I will use a AIO to clean the paint . Today I used DG101on my car because I wanted to finish the bottle . Car came out great , and it does have a wet look . I did it by hand even though I have a duel action. The paint is in great shape and it only took a 1/2 hour.
Poliseal is a pleasure to use and looks very wet, but if you are concerned about durability, you will be greatly disappointed. I did a comparison on another site and got about a month of beading with Poliseal on a car parked outside 24x7. I get 4 months from 501.
mwoolfso
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- Jul 18, 2011
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PolySeal + OCW = Heaven
primo spaghetti
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- Jun 16, 2012
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OCW eh? how you tried Optiseal and prefer OCW?
ill have to try OCW...i have the DG aquawax and that is great for a spray wax imo...but ive heard great stuff from everyone that tries OCW.
Meticulous-Detail
New member
- Nov 15, 2011
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I like to mix a little DG501 with some PBA601, 17.5-1. Also if there is a south or westerly wind, 2 spritzs of WD-40, the kind with the flip top can only. Then I top with some 845, followed by some FK1000P, and then usually some Max Wax or Fuzion, probably about 7 layers. Usually do an IPA wipedown half way to assure of good bonding. Then a little trick I picked up from a crackhead detailer on a street corner was to cover the car in a mixture of 1/2 pledge and 1/2 kerosene using an applicator pre-treated with Opticoat.
It's an AIO...leave it alone!!!! If you are doing two steps, you might as well use a quality polish and then top with a durable wax/sealant.
/end of rant....
Don't knock it till you try it. Done quite a few cars (daily drivers) with D151 and DG 501 mixed on the pad at 1 to 1 for a 1 step and then came out real nice. D151 has nice cut, DG501 has nice cleaning and durability is 4-6 months. Makes a 1 step look like a 2 step. Use both MF and foam pads depending on paint. Here is an example.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/50304-my-new-favorite-1-step-killer-combo.html
You'd be more credible if you did separate panels and compared the results. I have no doubt you were happy with the results.
umi000
Active member
- Jan 14, 2011
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Nice tip I got from the Optimum forums - you can use OCW to wipe off the (likely minimal) residue left by Poli-Seal.
Dogfather
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- Sep 7, 2012
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DG 501/601 with white pad. I know many would feel the purpose of an AIO is defeated when I top it with OOS, but applying a WOWA is so darn effortless it hardly qualifies as another step. I maintain with DG AW as I dry and it still beads marvelously when I'm about to repeat the process 6 months later.