Best approach for a newb and a new truck

reddevildemo

reddevildemo

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Hi all,
I am new to the forum and up until now, I thought I was pretty good with detailing my vehicles. WOW was I wrong !!

I am reading so many threads and How to's that my head is spinning.

I'll start out with some basic questions for now but I'm sure I'll have more in the future.

Background, I have never polished a car or used a machine on one before, feel kind of intimidated actually.
I have a Galaxy Black, 2013 Nissan Titan, full of swirls from the factory.

Questions

1) Without breaking the bank, what are the MUST have products I'll need to get rid of the swirls?
2) What are the watch outs for machine use?
3) Any articles I should read before tackling the task?


That should be all for now, sorry to be so "Newbish" but this is something I really want to learn and learn right.

Darin
 
Darin,

Welcome!!

This site has a lot of training available as well as a lot of really experienced folks to give you a hand.

Personally, most of my issues were cleared up by attending Mike's Bootcamp weekend class. http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum.../30393-mike-phillips-detailing-boot-camp.html

You really get your hands on everything and learn what you need to know about machines, chemicals, and processes. Well worth the cost.

Also, this forum has many articles written by staffers as well as forum members on every challenge you will face. You can do a keyword search and find a lot of information.

One more source is the How-Tos: Auto Detailing Facts, auto detailing Tips, How to detailing Guides, how to polish, how to wax, DIY detailing, do it yourself guides
Lots of good info there.

One thing I have learned is to use the least aggressive method possible to perform any paint correction. That being said, mark a small test area and use your least aggressive polish and see if that will work. If not, get progressively more aggressive until you achieve the results you are looking for. This info is also included in the How-to section.

Personally, I have a 6" Flex 3401 polisher and Griot's Garage (GG) 3" polisher. Today, I pulled swirls out of a tan Ford Tarus using only a white hybrid pad and Opti-Seal. Came out beautifully and I topped it with some of the Christmas Special wax. Looks stunning. A few weeks ago I worked a navy blue Chevy Silverado with bad swirls. It took a blue pad and some Wolfgang Uber Compound to get those buggars out that time. It just depends.

Take a look around the site. There is a lot of good information all over the place. And if possible, attend the Boot Camp. You will learn a lot, make great friends, and build your confidence.

Have fun!
 
Thanks for the reply mini S.
I have been reading and watching and boy have I learned a lot.
My biggest question is on products, so many out there and it seems like everyone has their favorite.
I need a swirl remover, polish and something to protect, whether that be wax or other. I don't have the budget to try a bunch of different brands and I can't seem to narrow it down to what's best for me. Between Meguires, Wolfgang, Pinnacle, Blackfire......no idea what to get. My paint is in good condition with minor swirls so nothing too aggressive is needed.

Thanks again for the info, I'll continue reading and watching vids to help me along.

Darin
 
The Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover is a great product. Really can't go wrong with that. Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover 3.0, car polish, polishing compound

But as I mentioned before, even an all-in-one (AIO) product may be able to get you there in one step. The car I did today, I used Poli-Seal and removed the swirls and put on a sealer in one step. Optimum Poli Seal, paint sealant, optimum detailing products Can't beat that. Made my day, too cold to do multiple steps anyhow.

Lots of folks here also like the Meguiar's M205 and M105.Meguiars M105 Ultra-Cut Compound 32 oz.
Meguiars Mirror Glaze #205 Ultra Finishing Polish, final polish, Meguiars polishes, car polish, 205 FP
I just got those but haven't tried them yet. I'll be doing a white car with them later this week.

Any of these will get you there. Good luck!
 
Yeah, i'd pick out a random orbit buffer of some type before doing anything. I still us a porter cable that I've had for years, but from what I've read the griot's garage machine has a bit more power for a similar price.

If your truck only has light swirls you'll probably be happy with just about any of the common polishes you see mentioned here. The polish I'm big on at the moment is HD Polish
 
reddevildemo said:
Thanks for the reply mini S.
I have been reading and watching and boy have I learned a lot.
My biggest question is on products, so many out there and it seems like everyone has their favorite.
I need a swirl remover, polish and something to protect, whether that be wax or other. I don't have the budget to try a bunch of different brands and I can't seem to narrow it down to what's best for me. Between Meguires, Wolfgang, Pinnacle, Blackfire......no idea what to get. My paint is in good condition with minor swirls so nothing too aggressive is needed.

Thanks again for the info, I'll continue reading and watching vids to help me along.

Darin
Click to expand...

Hello Darin, and welcome to the forum.

You may already know and have read what the basics are to perfect, and protect a vehicle.

Put simply, they are wash, decontaminate, polish, seal-wax. We all had to start somewhere.

I stepped into the present last year here, and took the advice of many of the great forum member's advice-suggestions, and I can perhaps pass some onto you.

As Mike Phillips touched upon, he asked about if you have any sort of machinery to help perfect paint. Hand processes are quite slow, and also somewhat inefficient at the "timely" removal of swirls. A good DA machine like virtually all of us here have is a definite must have.

With such, perfecting paint takes only a mere few hour's time to do. By hand can take literally forever, and the end results will be very "hard earned".

I suggest either the Porter Cable 7424XP (which I have) or the Griots Garage GG6. While both are not perhaps optimally suited for the professional detailer on a daily use basis, they are quite adequate and ideal IMO for the car care afficionado-hobbyist.

Pair one of these DA Machines with a couple of Yellow Urethane backing plates from Lake County, the 5", and 3.5", and some pads (5.5" and 4"), and you then have that part covered. You can probably get by with 95% of your correction work with either LC Orange, and White Flat Pads. Complimenting such a package, one should have some decent hand applicators, and a good selection of good quality Microfiber Towels.

Chemicals? It seems all products produced by Palm Beach Motoring Group are exemplary.
I myself personally am very happy with the Wolfgang Line, their polishes, and Sealants are all first rate.

To cover all basic bases of paint perfection, I would say WG Uber Compound, WG Total Swirl Remover, WG Finishing Glaze, and WG Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0 would be a great package to attain perfection.

Claying a paint prior to polishing is highly recommended-suggested. Another great decon product to have to remove Iron is CarPro's Iron-X. Some folks use it, some haven't. It is a great product, the original formula is a bit "stinky" though. It is amazing what it can do.

The choice of a final protectant is an individual choice. One can use Waxes, Sealants, or Coatings once the paint is perfected. The WG 3.0 Sealant is a fantastic product.

Lastly, don't forget rubber, and trim. Products such as WG Exterior Trim Sealant work very well.

Hope this helps.
Mark
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Welcome to AGO...


Do you have any type of polisher yet?



:)
Click to expand...

No not yet Mike, Looking at either the 7424XP or the GG6.

MarkD51 said:
Hello Darin, and welcome to the forum.

You may already know and have read what the basics are to perfect, and protect a vehicle.

Put simply, they are wash, decontaminate, polish, seal-wax. We all had to start somewhere.

I stepped into the present last year here, and took the advice of many of the great forum member's advice-suggestions, and I can perhaps pass some onto you.

As Mike Phillips touched upon, he asked about if you have any sort of machinery to help perfect paint. Hand processes are quite slow, and also somewhat inefficient at the "timely" removal of swirls. A good DA machine like virtually all of us here have is a definite must have.

With such, perfecting paint takes only a mere few hour's time to do. By hand can take literally forever, and the end results will be very "hard earned".

I suggest either the Porter Cable 7424XP (which I have) or the Griots Garage GG6. While both are not perhaps optimally suited for the professional detailer on a daily use basis, they are quite adequate and ideal IMO for the car care afficionado-hobbyist.

Pair one of these DA Machines with a couple of Yellow Urethane backing plates from Lake County, the 5", and 3.5", and some pads (5.5" and 4"), and you then have that part covered. You can probably get by with 95% of your correction work with either LC Orange, and White Flat Pads. Complimenting such a package, one should have some decent hand applicators, and a good selection of good quality Microfiber Towels.

Chemicals? It seems all products produced by Palm Beach Motoring Group are exemplary.
I myself personally am very happy with the Wolfgang Line, their polishes, and Sealants are all first rate.

To cover all basic bases of paint perfection, I would say WG Uber Compound, WG Total Swirl Remover, WG Finishing Glaze, and WG Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0 would be a great package to attain perfection.

Claying a paint prior to polishing is highly recommended-suggested. Another great decon product to have to remove Iron is CarPro's Iron-X. Some folks use it, some haven't. It is a great product, the original formula is a bit "stinky" though. It is amazing what it can do.

The choice of a final protectant is an individual choice. One can use Waxes, Sealants, or Coatings once the paint is perfected. The WG 3.0 Sealant is a fantastic product.

Lastly, don't forget rubber, and trim. Products such as WG Exterior Trim Sealant work very well.

Hope this helps.
Mark
Click to expand...

Thanks Mark, very helpful. I have narrowed down the search for a DA to those you mentioned. I found the GG6 on line for $114, not a bad price.

As for pads, I agree about the orange and white. Would you suggest another such as Red for final buff/shine?


I have a nice little wish list going here including the items you mentioned. Thank you muck for your suggestions.

Darin
 
reddevildemo said:
No not yet Mike, Looking at either the 7424XP or the GG6.
Click to expand...

I prefer the PC for fit, finish and reliabilty but the GG does have more power to "help" maintain pad rotation.

Fact of the matter is as long as you have enough DRY 5.5" thin foam pads both will get the job done in about the same time. That' just me though...




reddevildemo said:
Thanks Mark, very helpful. I have narrowed down the search for a DA to those you mentioned. I found the GG6 on line for $114, not a bad price.

As for pads, I agree about the orange and white. Would you suggest another such as Red for final buff/shine?
Click to expand...


I'm not Mark but I did write an article for everyone that is going to purchase a Porter Cable, Griot's or Meguiar's dual action polisher because none of them come with a 5" backing plate.

So no matter which one you purchase nor where you buy it, sooner or later you will need to purchase a 5" backing plate and the 5.5" pads to go with it.


From my article list but I also cover this in all my how-to books...


5 inch Backing Plates on Meguiar's, Griot's and Porter Cable DA Polishers


Here's some pictures showing the size of different backing plates on the popular Meguiar's Griot's and Porter Cable DA Polishers.

The Griot's and Meguiar's DA Polishers come with 6" backing plates and the Porter Cable by itself does not come with a backing plate.

If you want to use 5.5" foam pads on any of these tools you'll need to remember to order a separate backing plate when your order your polishers.


From left to right...

Factory Griot's 6" BP, Lake Country 5" BP, Meguiar's 5" BP and 5" Black Heavy Duty BP
5inchbackingpatesonDAPs001.jpg



5" Lake Country held against 6" Griot's Garage Backing Plate for size reference
5inchbackingpatesonDAPs002.jpg



5" Lake Country Backing Plate on 6" Griot's Backing Plate for size reference
5inchbackingpatesonDAPs003.jpg



Griot's measures just under 6"
5inchbackingpatesonDAPs004.jpg



Griot's measures approximately 5 3/4"
5inchbackingpatesonDAPs005.jpg



Lake Country measures just under 5"
5inchbackingpatesonDAPs006.jpg



Meguiar's W67DA measures just under 5"
5inchbackingpatesonDAPs007.jpg



Heavy Duty Black DA Backing plate measures just under 5"
5inchbackingpatesonDAPs008.jpg



Griot's 6" backing plate too large to safely use with 5.5" foam buffing pads
5inchbackingpatesonDAPs009.jpg



Backing plate overhangs past foam pad
5inchbackingpatesonDAPs010.jpg


5inchbackingpatesonDAPs011.jpg




See the little rubber cap?
It holds the compression washer on the threaded stud and also protects the threads when the backing plate is not in use. Do not loose it and if you do you can simply wrap some tape around the threads while backing plate is in storage.

5inchbackingpatesonDAPs012.jpg



This is a Compression Washer - Don't lose it and don't use any backing plate without it.
5inchbackingpatesonDAPs013.jpg




Meguiar's G110v2 comes with the W68DA Backing plate, it's too large to safely use with a 5.5" foam buffing pad.
5inchbackingpatesonDAPs015.jpg



Meguiar's W67DA Backing plate placed on top of the W68DA Backing plate for size reference
5inchbackingpatesonDAPs016.jpg



With a 5.5" foam buffing pad attached you can see the overhang of the W68DA Backing Plate
5inchbackingpatesonDAPs017.jpg



The Meguiar's W68DA Backing plate measures just under 6" in diameter
5inchbackingpatesonDAPs018.jpg



From left to right...

Griot's Garage 6" Backing Plate, Meguiar's W68DA Backing Plate and Meguiar's W67DA Backing Plate
5inchbackingpatesonDAPs019.jpg





3 popular DA Polishers ready to rock and roll with 5" backing plates and 5.5" buffing pads...
5inchbackingpatesonDAPs014.jpg



:xyxthumbs:
 
Thanks Mike, some very helpful stuff there.
I'll be reading up all day, should have my order all set by the end of the week.
 
Many thanks Mike, for again adding to this thread!

I hope for one, that folks such as I haven't overstepped any bounds, as I later found this thread in your "Ask the Expert" Sub-Forum. Only was wishing to help, I know you're a busy man, and hope to only contribute.

I think I did good though, and I have to give tons of credit of much new learned knowledge to you specifically here. Thank you Mike.

Green Bay? I lived in Sheboygan for 4-1/2 years (15 miles north of town right on Lake Michigan with 400' of Lake Frontage). This is great snowmobile country when the weather cooperates. Folks in Wisconsin, and Minnesota often "pray for snow"!

Of course, this can make vehicle detailing sort of complicated at this time of year. Green Bay at this time isn't exactly Venice Fla where my mother lived for 23 years, that's for sure!

Sure miss the great Lake Perch Fish Frys, Fresh Brats, Semmel Rolls, Smoked Summer Sausage from Sheboygan.

Not sure if you'll be able to use such good tools, and chemical goods from this site just yet? Keep your eye's peeled for such tools here, with good discounts, free shipping, etc.

AG, and Autopia stand behind everything they sell 100%.
 
reddevildemo said:
Thanks Mike, some very helpful stuff there.

I'll be reading up all day, should have my order all set by the end of the week.
Click to expand...

No problemo....

The owner, President and CEO of PBMG is very big on customer service in all its dimensions and that includes,

  • Calling us on the phone.
  • Sending us an e-mail.
  • Joining this forum and asking questions.
Our goal on this forum is to give the best customer service in the online detailing discussion forum world.

No simple one-liners or tell people to use the [Search] button but real help based upon real-world hands-on experience.

Our duty on this forum is to help see others through to success in their garage.

Whatever it takes.

It's also a fun job helping people get what they want...


:dblthumb2:
 
MarkD51 said:
Many thanks Mike, for again adding to this thread!

I hope for one, that folks such as I haven't overstepped any bounds, as I later found this thread in your "Ask the Expert" Sub-Forum. Only was wishing to help, I know you're a busy man, and hope to only contribute.
Click to expand...

This forum group was named and created for me by management when I came to Autogeek from Meguiar's. I personally would never name a forum group I post to in a way to refer to myself as an expert. It's just not my style.



MarkD51 said:
I think I did good though, and I have to give tons of credit of much new learned knowledge to you specifically here. Thank you Mike.
Click to expand...

I actually appreciate all your contributions to this forum Mark. Anyone reading through your posting history can immediately see that your posts are always professional and positive and that's a sign of your character.

Now days, I appreciate people that can conduct themselves in a professional manner on a discussion forum more than their ability to buff out a car.


Keep up the great work...


:dblthumb2:
 
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