Best end result?
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Setec Astronomy
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- Aug 31, 2010
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Is this a trick question?
- Thread starter
- #3
No tricks. I am going to detail 1 to 3 cars for a person and they are used to a hand application of mothers wax and a certain price point. I am willing to meet this price point but only by using either a 1step with d151 or 2 step with m205 finished with either fuzion or collinite 915.
I am looking for the best looking finished product to continue and grow with this person. Do i go for possibly more correction but slack longevity or higher gloss?
I am looking for the best looking finished product to continue and grow with this person. Do i go for possibly more correction but slack longevity or higher gloss?
- Thread starter
- #5
In theory i agree with using D151. My problem is i want to distance myself as much as possible from what he is used to while keeping my labor and parts cost down. Add that to the fact i have never been satisfied with the end result of d151. It gives shiny paint but the after appearance is just not as stunning as i would prefer.
cardaddy
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- Nov 20, 2012
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I'm not sure I understand what you're not satisfied with? I mean is it not giving you correction? Or is it just that you want more gloss?
As far as an AIO goes D151 is pretty hard to beat. You can use it with a heavy cut pad such as a microfiber pad, yellow pad, an orange pad, even a white pad... All depending on how hard and/or soft your paint is.
The protection it provides will easily match some sort of handbags application. Easily! Of course if you want even more protection you can always go over it with a decent sealant are there that be m21 2.0, Wolfgang deep gloss paint sealant, or say Menzerna Power Lock.
OTOH... If you're just looking for an excuse to try a different compound for AIO then I would not overlook picking up a bottle of FG 400 because it will cut like crazy, it will finish like crazy, and you can do that all day long. Then just top it with whatever sealant you want.
Also... I recently picked up a bottle of HD Adapt and it does everything that they said it will. It absolutely does not dust! And I tried it with everything from a heavy cut pad to a middle-of-the-road pad and got great results as far as finishing out LSP ready. The need for a heavy or pad would be if you have read that you want to get rid off in what level of correction you want.
The one trick with HD products is that you don't have to prime your pad like you would with other compounds.
There is a fine line however between not having enough of it on your pad and having too much! Because if you put too much on it it will start gumming up the face of the pad and making little gooey balls.
Still doesn't dust.. jist spits out gooey balls everywhere! 
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
As far as an AIO goes D151 is pretty hard to beat. You can use it with a heavy cut pad such as a microfiber pad, yellow pad, an orange pad, even a white pad... All depending on how hard and/or soft your paint is.
The protection it provides will easily match some sort of handbags application. Easily! Of course if you want even more protection you can always go over it with a decent sealant are there that be m21 2.0, Wolfgang deep gloss paint sealant, or say Menzerna Power Lock.
OTOH... If you're just looking for an excuse to try a different compound for AIO then I would not overlook picking up a bottle of FG 400 because it will cut like crazy, it will finish like crazy, and you can do that all day long. Then just top it with whatever sealant you want.
Also... I recently picked up a bottle of HD Adapt and it does everything that they said it will. It absolutely does not dust! And I tried it with everything from a heavy cut pad to a middle-of-the-road pad and got great results as far as finishing out LSP ready. The need for a heavy or pad would be if you have read that you want to get rid off in what level of correction you want.
The one trick with HD products is that you don't have to prime your pad like you would with other compounds.
There is a fine line however between not having enough of it on your pad and having too much! Because if you put too much on it it will start gumming up the face of the pad and making little gooey balls.
Still doesn't dust.. jist spits out gooey balls everywhere! Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
Mike lambert
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- Aug 16, 2011
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Give him more than he is expecting and explain why it costs more than a hand wax. If he doesn't want to pay more that's fine, but maybe he will tell his friends who want a little better. Worked for me.
- Thread starter
- #8
I would say gloss is what i am not happy with using d151. To me its middle of the road. If the charts are correct d151 cuts more than m205. So i should get more correction that way. M205 to my eyes produces a much glossier finish.
So to an end user who cares not about correction, but strictly looks which option would you choose?
So to an end user who cares not about correction, but strictly looks which option would you choose?
AGOatemywallet
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- Jun 13, 2015
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Are you suggesting that you would charge the same for D151 as you would for M205 followed by Fuzion?
That does not make sense to me
D151 would be quicker and cost you less in product costs
That does not make sense to me
D151 would be quicker and cost you less in product costs
AGOatemywallet
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- Jun 13, 2015
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3M Imperial Hand Glaze
svilleneuve
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- Nov 20, 2015
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+1 for HD SPEED
FUNX650
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- Dec 1, 2010
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Are you going to be doing these "corrections"
by hand or machine?
Sounds like you could rule out using D151.
IMO:
Claying and Polishing makes the paint smooth.
Smoothness creates the gloss.
Gloss needs to be protected with an LSP.
Bob
dlc95
Well-known member
- May 18, 2013
- 6,062
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I was happy with how this turned out. I cut with M105 on a foam pad, for some parts, and D300 on mf for others.
I finished with M66 on a Lake Country Crimson Hydrotech. White polishing pads are also absolutely fantastic with it as well. I just got a bunch of great flat finishing pads to see how well they work together as well.
I use the M66 a lot on it's own, and sometimes after cutting with something really heavy, like M105. It works fast, works well, and leaves behind adequate protection.
Usually a seperate finishing polish / "wax" will yield superior results to just using an all in one product. The M66 uses a diminishing abrasive, which may account for how well it finishes out.
I finished with M66 on a Lake Country Crimson Hydrotech. White polishing pads are also absolutely fantastic with it as well. I just got a bunch of great flat finishing pads to see how well they work together as well.
I use the M66 a lot on it's own, and sometimes after cutting with something really heavy, like M105. It works fast, works well, and leaves behind adequate protection.
Usually a seperate finishing polish / "wax" will yield superior results to just using an all in one product. The M66 uses a diminishing abrasive, which may account for how well it finishes out.
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
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Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
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Generally speaking you get better end results on car paint by using a multiple step approach.
If the colors are dark I wouldn't recommend cutting with FG400 and topping with a finishing or non-cleaning wax because over time and with a few washes you could see some dull hazy areas on the paint. It is an aggressive compound.
Also choice of pad is important as an aggressive pad can leave paint hazy but the haziness can be masked by the polishing oils in the product as well as the LSP.
A great two-step approach is to use a medium cut polish followed by a quality synthetic sealant.
For example, machine polish with Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover (a medium cut polish), using a foam polishing pad on an orbital polisher and top with Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0.
This recipe will work on any type of paint and any color with superb results.
If the colors are dark I wouldn't recommend cutting with FG400 and topping with a finishing or non-cleaning wax because over time and with a few washes you could see some dull hazy areas on the paint. It is an aggressive compound.
Also choice of pad is important as an aggressive pad can leave paint hazy but the haziness can be masked by the polishing oils in the product as well as the LSP.
A great two-step approach is to use a medium cut polish followed by a quality synthetic sealant.
For example, machine polish with Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover (a medium cut polish), using a foam polishing pad on an orbital polisher and top with Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0.
This recipe will work on any type of paint and any color with superb results.
Ancient1
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- Sep 4, 2015
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For a one step there is one I like that hasn't been mentioned which is Essence with Reload. If the paint is in decent shape to start with the results are very good and has from what I can tell so far good durability.
Here is a picture of my car that I did with that combination for winter this year and so far it has held up to the salt and snow quite well and imagine in a better climate it would be the same. If you want I could take a couple picture of before and after a wash since it is quite white with salt right now.
Here is a picture of my car that I did with that combination for winter this year and so far it has held up to the salt and snow quite well and imagine in a better climate it would be the same. If you want I could take a couple picture of before and after a wash since it is quite white with salt right now.