Best liquid carnuba wax for a deep wet shine

Samson77

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My car is a black cherry color (dark, shade shifts between brown/purple/black).
I have a porter cable random orbital, and have used the wolfgang swirl kit it came with, which I 100% was NOT impressed with. I have every color of lake country 6.5 ccs pad.
I have been using a local detail shop carnuba wax, which is ok but not the wow me deep shine. I have multiple coats on the car now. I still have some swirls, more like sun halos really. What is the best carnuba wax for my car color and porter cable/pad set up?

Thank you very much
 
Before you start looking for a new wax, you need to get rid of those, as you call it "sun halos". Ninety percent of the final looks (shine) comes from polishing the paint and not the wax. Mike P has some good vids on polishing with a DA and probably on using the Wolfgang Kit. There is no magic bullet for swirl free paint.
BTW welcome to asylum.
 
You were not impressed since you didn't do the job well in preparing the finish....Wolfgang products are renowned here. You can glob all kinds of "Best" liquid carnauba wax on the surface to no avail. Once the surface is prepared correctly a $2.00 wax from Big Lot's would make it look like a million bucks. You're working backwards. Concentrate on getting the surface in the best shape you can first. No offence intended, sometimes blunt is the best suggestion.
 
Pretty much what everyone said. Remove your defects first. Wax only enhances what your finish already has.
 
My car is a black cherry color (dark, shade shifts between brown/purple/black).
I have a porter cable random orbital, and have used the wolfgang swirl kit it came with, which I 100% was NOT impressed with. I have every color of lake country 6.5 ccs pad.
I have been using a local detail shop carnuba wax, which is ok but not the wow me deep shine. I have multiple coats on the car now. I still have some swirls, more like sun halos really. What is the best carnuba wax for my car color and porter cable/pad set up?

Thank you very much

If the finish is prepped correctly the paint will look wet before any wax is put on...

The Correction and polishing steps are extremely important.

The swirls should be gone after the correcting step so in the polishing step all you are doing is increasing the shine and enhancing the finish.

Then you put on the wax or sealant.....

As far as Nuba waxes go Megs M26 is very hard to beat...... Would have to spend some serious coin to get a wax that would beat it for looks.....

Then Also Wolfgang Fuzion and Pinnacle Souverän are also excellent, they are somewhat pricey though.
 
6.5" pads on the Porter Cable is your first problem. TSR & FG3.0 are EXCELLENT products when used correctly.

You need to look into MF pads, 5" LC Flat Pads, or LC Low Profile Hydrotech 5" Pads
 
I have every color of lake country 6.5 ccs pad.

I missed the 6.5" pads on the PC....

You really need to get a 5" backing plate and 5.5" LC Pads...

Get some Orange and White Flat pads (3 of each) and a Black Finishing pad.
 
My car is a black cherry color (dark, shade shifts between brown/purple/black).
I have a porter cable random orbital, and have used the wolfgang swirl kit it came with, which I 100% was NOT impressed with. I have every color of lake country 6.5 ccs pad.
I have been using a local detail shop carnuba wax, which is ok but not the wow me deep shine. I have multiple coats on the car now. I still have some swirls, more like sun halos really. What is the best carnuba wax for my car color and porter cable/pad set up?

Thank you very much

Do you have the correct size counter weight for the 6.5 pads? If not, it won't spin worth a damn. There are 2 different counter weights for the PC7424. Might want to look into it.
 
Do you have the correct size counter weight for the 6.5 pads? If not, it won't spin worth a damn. There are 2 different counter weights for the PC7424. Might want to look into it.

Won't matter IME. Get the 5.5" pads.
 
Do you have the correct size counter weight for the 6.5 pads? If not, it won't spin worth a damn. There are 2 different counter weights for the PC7424. Might want to look into it.

It doesn't matter which counter weight that you are using. Counter weights matters when sanding and not polishing.
 
6.5" pads on the Porter Cable is your first problem. TSR & FG3.0 are EXCELLENT products when used correctly.

You need to look into MF pads, 5" LC Flat Pads, or LC Low Profile Hydrotech 5" Pads
for sure
 
Assuming this is not a daily driver and you wash it correctly every time so it's worth doing a full 3 step paint correction. If so, ditto to what everyone else has already said. If this is a daily driver and you run it through the local automatic wash, save your time and clear coat. Go with a good all in one product. I have had good results with Blackfire total polish and seal, but I'm sure you would get about 50 other suggestions. You can stop there or top it with wax. The wax will only serve to deepen the shine.
 
The Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover and Wolfgang Finishing Glaze use some of the best abrasive technology available.

I'd go as far as to say I can fix anything that doesn't need a compound with just these tow products and I've already been there and done that. So take comfort in the fact that you have great polishes.

The most important factor when it comes to removing defects and creating a flawless show car finish and ESPECIALLY on BLACK paint starts with the abrasive technology.

After that,

Tool
Technique
Pad


Read through this to see if there's anything that stands out in our process that might be wrong...


DA Polisher Trouble Shooting Guide


Tyler, age 15 removing swirls using a Porter Cable 7424XP Dual Action Polisher
1965Plymouth035.jpg


When you're first starting out machine polishing and learning to use a DA Polisher it's common to have questions about your results and your results are directly tied to your technique.

Here's a list of the most common problems,

1. Trying to work too large of an area at one time.

2. Moving the polisher too fast over the surface.

3. Using too low of speed setting for removing swirls.

4. Using too little downward pressure on the head of the polisher.

5. Using too much downward pressure on the head of the polisher so the pad quits rotating.

6. Not holding the polisher in a way to keep the pad flat while working your compound or polish.

7. Using too much product or using too little product.

8. Not cleaning the pad often enough.


Here's a list of the solutions in matching order,

1. Trying to work too large of an area at one time.
Shrink the size of your work area down. You can't tackle to large of an area at one time. The average size work area should be around 20" by 20". Most generic recommendations say to work an area 2' by 2' but for the correction step, that's too large. You have to do some experimenting, (called a Test Spot), to find out how easy or how hard the defects are coming out of your car's paint system and then adjust your work area to the results of your Test Spot. The harder the paint the smaller the area you want to work.


2. Moving the polisher too fast over the surface.
For removing defects out of the paint you want to use what we call a Slow Arm Speed. It's easy and actually natural for most people new to machine polishing to move the polisher quickly over the paint but that's the wrong technique. One reason I think people move the polisher too quickly over the paint is because they hear the sound of the motor spinning fast and this has psychological effect which causes them to match their arm movement to the perceived fast speed of the polisher's motor.

Another reason people move the polisher too quickly over the paint is because they think like this,

"If I move the polisher quickly, I'll get done faster"

But it doesn't work that way. Anytime you're trying to remove swirls, scratches, water spots or oxidation using a DA Polisher you need to move the polisher s-l-o-w-l-y over the paint.



3. Using too low of speed setting for removing swirls.
When first starting out many people are scared of burning or swirling their paint, so they take the safe route of running the polisher at too low of a speed setting but this won't work. The action of the polisher is already g-e-n-t-l-e, you need the speed and specifically the pad oscillating and rotating over the paint as well as the combination of time, (slow arm speed), together with the abrasives, the pad aggressiveness, and the downward pressure to remove small particles of paint which is how your remove below surface defects like swirls or scratches.

Removing below surface defects is a leveling process where you need the abrasives to take little bites out of the paint and to get the abrasives to take these little bites with a tool that uses a Free Floating Spindle Bearing Assembly you need all of the above factors working for you including a high speed setting.



4. Using too little downward pressure on the head of the polisher.
For the same reason as stated in #3, people are scared, or perhaps a better word is apprehensive, to apply too much downward pressure to the polisher and the result of too little pressure is no paint is removed thus no swirls are removed.



5. Using too much downward pressure on the head of the polisher so the pad quits rotating.
If you push too hard you will slow down the rotating movement of the pad and the abrasives won't be effectively worked against the paint. You need to apply firm pressure to engage the abrasives against the paint but no so much that the pad is barely rotating. This is where it's a good idea to use a permanent black marker to make a mark on the back of your backing plate so your eyes can easily see if the pad is rotating or not and this will help you to adjust your downward pressure accordingly.

Correct technique means finding a balance of applying enough downward pressure to remove defects but not too much downward pressure as to stop the rotating movement of the pad.

This balance is affected by a lot of factors like the lubricity of the product you're using, some compounds and polishes provide more lubrication than others and this makes it easier to maintain pad rotation under pressure.

Another factor that can affect pad rotation are raised body lines, edges and curved surfaces as anytime you have uneven pressure on just a portion of the face of the pad it can slow or stop pad rotation. This is where experience comes into play and experience comes from time spent behind the polisher.



6. Not holding the polisher in a way to keep the pad flat while working your compound or polish.
Applying pressure in such a way as to put too much pressure to one edge of the pad will cause it to stop rotating and thus decrease abrading ability.



7. Using too much product or using too little product.
Too much product hyper-lubricates the surface and the result is that abrasives won't effectively bite into the paint but instead will tend to skim over the surface. Overusing product will also accelerate pad saturation as well increase the potential for slinging splatter onto adjacent panels.

Too little product will means too little lubrication and this can interfere with pad rotation.

Again there needs to be a balance between too much product and too little product and finding this balance comes from reading articles like this one, watching videos an most important, going out into the garage and putting in time behind the polisher and as you're buffing with specific product and pad combinations, pay attention to pad rotation.



8. Not cleaning the pad often enough.
Most people simply don't clean their pad often enough to maximize the effectiveness of their DA Polisher. Anytime you're abrading the paint you have two things building up on the face of your buffing pad,
  • Removed paint
  • Spent product

As these to things build up on the face of the pad they become gummy and this has a negative affect on pad rotating plus makes wiping the leftover residue on the paint more difficult. To maintain good pad rotation you want to clean your pad often and always wipe-off any leftover product residue off the paint after working a section. Never add fresh product to your pad and work a section that still has leftover product residue on it.


Pad Cleaning Articles

Why it's important to clean your pads often...

How to clean your foam pad on the fly

How to use the Grit Guard Universal Pad Washer


Tyler, age 15 machine applying a paste wax using a Porter Cable 7424XP Dual Action Polisher

1965Plymouth067.jpg


1965Plymouth071.jpg



buffing.gif
 
Hi all,
thank you for the suggestions. I was probably trying to work too large of a surface area.
The 6.5 inch LC pads came with the kit so that is what I thought should be used with this DA, and continued to buy additional 6.5 inch ccs pads. At the suggestion of someone at autogeek, I will be buying the Meguiars Microfiber Correction system which includes the 5" backer plate.
I have been buying the ccs pads, but judging by the replies it appears I should go with flat pads? I already have the 5" red flat finishing pad, what additional 5" pads should I get?

On a related note, when should a soft wool bonnet be used? I recently started using after removing wax with a microfiber bonnet to buff. Is that correct?

Thank you very much for all the replies
 
Hi all,
thank you for the suggestions. I was probably trying to work too large of a surface area.
The 6.5 inch LC pads came with the kit so that is what I thought should be used with this DA, and continued to buy additional 6.5 inch ccs pads. At the suggestion of someone at autogeek, I will be buying the Meguiars Microfiber Correction system which includes the 5" backer plate.
I have been buying the ccs pads, but judging by the replies it appears I should go with flat pads? I already have the 5" red flat finishing pad, what additional 5" pads should I get?

On a related note, when should a soft wool bonnet be used? I recently started using after removing wax with a microfiber bonnet to buff. Is that correct?

Thank you very much for all the replies

These would be a great start:

I missed the 6.5" pads on the PC....

You really need to get a 5" backing plate and 5.5" LC Pads...

Get some Orange and White Flat pads (3 of each) and a Black Finishing pad.
 
Hi all,
On a related note, when should a soft wool bonnet be used? I recently started using after removing wax with a microfiber bonnet to buff. Is that correct?


Wool pads should not be used on a PC. The PC doesn't have enough power to spin a wool pad. As for the mf bonnet, I much prefer to use a mf towel by hand to remove waxes and sealants. Armed with the information you have gotten and Mike's vids, you should be on your way to some glossy paint.
 
At the suggestion of someone at autogeek, I will be buying the Meguiars Microfiber Correction system which includes the 5" backer plate.

I have been buying the ccs pads, but judging by the replies it appears I should go with flat pads? I already have the 5" red flat finishing pad, what additional 5" pads should I get?

Get orange, white and black. These will take care of anything.

Click and read these...

5 inch Backing Plates on Meguiar's, Griot's and Porter Cable DA Polishers


5 1/2 inch and 6 inch Buffing Pads on Autogeek's Online Store


Lake Country

5.5" Flat Pads
5_5FlatPads01.jpg







On a related note, when should a soft wool bonnet be used? I recently started using after removing wax with a microfiber bonnet to buff. Is that correct?

Thank you very much for all the replies

Wool bonnets are for use with traditional old fashioned orbital buffer and they tend to be very large. You don't need one and I wouldn't use one myself to remove wax.

The Traditional Orbital Buffer aka The Wax Spreader


Copyright ©PBMA - AutogeekOnline.net® All Rights Reserved


WaxSpreader02.jpg





I have used microfiber bonnets and shown millions of people how to do the same but now days I just wipe everything off by hand.

Here's the full article on how to use a microfiber bonnet to remove wax. Note these only work for waxes and sealants that DRY not WOWO products and they are also not for removing compounds and polishes. Just thin, dry coats of wax or sealant.



How to use a microfiber bonnet to remove dried wax by machine

There are two ways to remove wax off your car's paint, the normal way, that's by hand, and by machine using a microfiber bonnet using a DA Polisher, like a Porter Cable, Meguiar’s or Griot’s Garage DA Polisher.


Benefits to machine removal of wax
First of all, removing wax by machine is personal preference; some people like this technique while others prefer to simply wipe-off waxes by hand.

The technique of using a microfiber bonnet over a foam cutting pad provides equal pressure over the entire face of the pad and removes any pressure points created typically by your fingertips when wiping off by hand.

For some people, letting the machine do the work might be a physical advantage than using their arms and shoulders to wipe the wax off, just depends upon the physical limitations of the person.



Indigo Microfiber Bonnet and a Cyan, Hydro-Tech, 5.5" Foam Cutting Pad
IndigoOnHydro03.jpg


IndigoOnHydro01.jpg


IndigoOnHydro02.jpg




Drying Waxes
The first thing I want to point out is removing wax by machine works best if you’re using a wax that is supposed to dry first before removing. I need to make this point because some waxes are formulated to be wiped-off while they are still wet and these types of products really only wipe-off well by hand.

Removing dried wax by machine works best when you apply a thin coat to start with and the best way to apply a thin coat of wax is by machine. Of course if you already own a DA Polisher than you probably already know this and you likely already apply your waxes by machine.

It's kind of hard to explain why you can remove a wax that's supposed to dry by machine but it's hard to remove a wax that remains wet by machine but let me give it a try…


Two reasons why you can remove a dried wax by machine

1. Because the residue is dry.
When wax is wet, just out of the can or bottle, because it's in a fluid or liquid form, it will try to stick or cling to any smooth surface. When it's dried, it looses this characteristic.

Think of how dried wax residue after removed from the paint is kind of a dusty residue. If you scraped some off of your microfiber towel or bonnet and placed the dust on a table, you could blow on it and it would move off the table; this is because it's no longer wet and trying to stick to the table.

This same characteristic is important when you're machine removing wax because as the microfiber bonnet on a foam pad on a machine is breaking up and loosening the wax off the surface, because this wax residue is dry… it will loose it's grip on the paint and come off onto the bonnet and then because it's a dry residue, you can remove it off the bonnet with your fingernails or with a nylon brush. If it were wet it would soak into the bonnet.

2. Because the microfiber bonnet remains dry.
Sounds kind of simple but here's what I mean, because the residue from a wax that dries is dry, it has no moisture to dampen or make your microfiber material wet, so your microfiber bonnet remains dry as your work around the car removing wax. Periodically you simply need to remove any of the dry, dust residue that will build up on the microfiber material and you can do this with a nylon brush or even your fingernails.

A non-drying wax has a wetness to it usually from some type of beauty oils in the wax that impart clarity, depth and gloss but there could also be other liquid protection ingredients and carrying agents that retain some of their wetness after they are applied. If you try to remove a coating over a panel that is wet, the liquid portions of this film will transfer from the paint to the microfiber bonnet as the microfiber material will act to adsorb and absorb the wetness. The more wet wax you remove, the wetter your microfiber bonnet becomes as the wet residues load up on the face of your microfiber bonnet. Once the face of the bonnet becomes wet with these liquids it will no longer remove more wet wax and leave a dry finish behind, it will more or less simply act as though you're back to the wax application process, that is spreading out and creating a layer of wet wax on the paint.

You could have a stockpile of dry microfiber bonnets on hand to switch to a dry microfiber bonnet as soon as the current one becomes wet but it's really faster to remove non-drying waxes by hand. A microfiber towel folded 4-ways gives you 8 clean wiping sides that you can continually turn to as you're wiping off the wet wax and after all 8 sides of one towel are used you can quickly and simply switch to clean, dry microfiber towel.

Conversely, you can usually remove all the wax residue from a wax that dries using only one or two bonnets by cleaning the removed wax off the working face of the bonnet or reversing the bonnet or switching to a clean, dry bonnet.


Products Needed

Reversible Microfiber Bonnets
Microfiber bonnets are pretty much all reversible so you can use one side till it loads up with dried wax and then remove it, turn it inside out, give it a shake and put back onto your buffing pad and get back to work with the other side. I’ll show you my technique for cleaning your bonnet on the fly and often times you can remove all the wax off an average size car with just one side of bonnet.


Firm, dense pads for use under the bonnet
The key to removing dried wax using a DA Polisher is a firm pad like a foam cutting pad or a Lambswool polishing pad. My personal preference has always been to use a foam pad because it provides a level of cushion due to the nature of the foam cell wall structure. Lambswool pads have the firm feature and that's helps to remove the dried wax, but because they don't have a foam backing, they don't have the cushion foam offers.

The cushion offered by foam enables the pad to conform to a curves and body lines better than the hard, flat feature provided by the lambswool pad with a microfiber bonnet over it.

Any of these foam pads work well for removing dried wax,

5.5” Lake Country Flat Yellow Cutting Pad
5.5” Lake country Flat Orange Light Cutting Pad
5.5” Lake Country CCS Yellow Cutting Pad
5.5” Lake country CCS Orange Light Cutting Pad
6” Lake Country Purple Kompressor Pad
6” Lake Country Orange Kompressor Pad

If you want to try the Lambswool Polishing Pad under a microfiber bonnet, then this 6” pad works well.

6” Lake Country Lambswool Polishing Pad



Dedicated Clean Dry Pads for Machine Removing Wax
The best thing to do is to dedicate a pad to go with your bonnets and don’t ever use this pad for any machine cleaning or polishing work. Use a permanent black marker to mark the back of your buffing pad to indicate it's only to be used with bonnets to remove dried wax.


Dry stiff pads
If the pad is wet, it will transfer its liquid to the microfiber and get it wet; this will dramatically reduce its ability to remove wax. So don’t try to use a pad that’s either wet with product or wet after being washed but not dried. Dry pads are also stiff and it's this stiffness characteristic that is needed to get the wax to come off the paint. So only use clean, dry foam pads.


Clean pads
If your pad has been previously used to apply some kind of paint care product and it’s dry, the dried product residue in the pores of the foam pad will shake loose and accumulate inside the bonnet. This will contaminate the side of the bonnet against the pad making it unusable if you try to reverse the bonnet.



Step-by-Step How-To

Swipe Test
The first thing you want to do is to make sure the wax you've applied is dry and ready to remove, to do this you use the Swipe Test. Once the swipe test shows the wax is dry and ready to remove, you can begin removing the wax by machine.


Removing the Wax
It doesn’t matter much where you start but the normal protocol would be to start where you started when you applied the wax and then follow your path of travel. Another way is to just start at the top and work your way down.


Work Area Size
The size of area you tackle is basically as far as you can reach and manage comfortably. When removing defects using a DA Polisher you only want to work a small section at at time that same rule doesn't apply when you use the same tool to either apply or remove a wax by machine. You can basically tackle as large an area as you like and that you can comfortably reach.


Speed Setting
Use the high speed setting to remove dried wax. I tend to use the 6.0 Speed Setting because you really want all the power the tool has to offer when trying to convince dried wax to give up it's grip on the paint and transfer onto the bonnet.


Downward Pressure
You want to use firm downward pressure when removing the wax. The reason for this is you want the nap of the microfiber slicing into the coating of wax and then breaking it up and this cannot be accomplished with light pressure.


VERY IMPORTANT
Don’t lift the face of the buffing pad off the car at any time when operating the polisher at high speeds, if you do the pad rotation will quickly speed up and chances are very good the effect of inertia will cause your buffing pad to fly off the backing plate and land on the ground somewhere where it will become contaminated with dirt and thus become unusable.


A technique for moving from panel to panel
A technique for how to move the polisher from panel to panel without having the pad fly off the backing plate even though you don’t turn the polisher off is to at the same time you lift the pad off the surface, quickly place your clean hand against the face of the pad/bonnet. This won't hurt you and having the firm pressure of your hand against the pad will keep the pad from flying off the polisher till you touch it down again onto a new panel. For example going from the roof to the hood or from the hood to a side mirror, etc.



A technique for cleaning your bonnet on the fly
As you work your way around the car removing dried wax or paint sealant, you will get a build-up of dried wax residue on the face of the microfiber bonnet. While you have the option to remove the bonnet and reverse it and then place it back onto the buffing pad to use the clean side, what I do is in one smooth action, lift the oscillating pad off the surface of the paint while at the same time hold the fingernails of my 4 fingers against the bonnet with enough pressure to keep the pad from flying off the polisher but not so much that I stop the pad from rotating, and then move my fingernails over the surface of the microfiber bonnet and this is usually effective enough to remove any dried wax residue off the working face of the microfiber bonnet.

This fingernail technique works well enough to quickly remove any dried wax build-up and then get back to work and that’s the idea of doing anything on the fly…


Variation of the bonnet - Just use a microfiber towel
Some people will simply place a clean, dry microfiber towel flat onto the paint and then place a clean, dry buffing pad against the microfiber and remove wax using the microfiber trapped between the pad and the paint. I’m not a big fan of this method because the microfiber towel can easily work its way out from under the pad, especially if you try this on a vertical panel.




On Autogeek.net

Bonnets
Cobra™ Indigo 6 Inch Microfiber Bonnets 2 pack

All Bonnets


Small, firm dense foam buffing pads
Lake Country Hydro-Tech Low Profile 5 1/2 x 7/8 Inch Foam Pads
5.5” Lake Country Flat Yellow Cutting Pad
5.5” Lake country Flat Orange Light Cutting Pad
5.5” Lake Country CCS Yellow Cutting Pad
5.5” Lake country CCS Orange Light Cutting Pad
6” Lake Country Purple Kompressor Pad
6” Lake Country Orange Kompressor Pad


Small, firm lambswool pads
6” Lake Country Lambswool Polishing Pad


:)


:)
 
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