best looking coating

[Rsurfer]

I agree with Guz, this is a rather subjective matter as what looks best really depends on the individuals preferences. Part of your decision should also depend on how much work you are willing to put into your car. While it is good that your car was repainted last year that does mean you are exempt from a buffer as part of the prep work if choosing a robust coating. Even brand new cars will be buffed prior to application of a ceramic or robust sealant to correct any imperfections, add gloss and reflections prior to the coating. I am currently using Gtechniq CSL (ceramic) + Gtechniq EXO (sealant) + Gtechniq C2 (sacrificial spray on sealant) on my black mustang. While being very pleased with the results the truth of the matter is that any reputable like Gtechniq, CarPro or Gyeon offer coatings that will give you very good results. Really comes down to you on what you want and how much work you are willing to put into the car.

I clicked on "liked this post", but please break up your sentences into paragraphs..easier to read.

 

[TTQ B4U]

its a fresh repaint last year base and clear

What you're looking for will also be in how well the paint was laid down.

Paint on this one I did is less than 2 years old.

 

[Rsurfer]

What you're looking for will also be in how well the paint was laid down.

Paint on this one I did is less than 2 years old.

Looks like it was wet sanded..very sharp reflections.

 

[TTQ B4U]

Looks like it was wet sanded..very sharp reflections.

Paint work was done by a reputable paint shop. Owner is a friend of mine.

 

[TTQ B4U]

Looks like it was wet sanded..very sharp reflections.

Remember my Audi.....factory paint, just polished and prepped well. No wet sanding.

Again, to the OP'er, what is being looked for isn't going to come in a bottle. It's in the sweat and prep.

FWIW, the following were with GYEON's Pure topped with their Skin top-coat from a Syncro Kit.

 

[WhiteShadow89]

I clicked on "liked this post", but please break up your sentences into paragraphs..easier to read.

"Yes, master." -Anakin Skywalker

Thank you though lol.

 

[Bobby B.]

But if it’s not prepped until all the “polishing oils” are wiped off, then how are you really squeezing all the juice out of the polishing step? Correct me if I’m wrong, but IMO it doesn’t look any better than standing back and having a good look at your vehicle immediately after you’ve just finished polishing it with [just for example, Meguiars Ultimate Polish] and you can almost swear it’s those polishing oils that are essential in them calling it a “Pre Waxing Glaze” that makes all the difference…

But if you’re wiping away all that goodness that the “glaze” provides, and it’s an essential part of why that particular polish provides “deep reflections & hi gloss” combined with the fact that a coating is “just icing on the cake”… Then how are you not settling for less when it comes to looks?

Am I crazy to think that you’re leaving some potential juice on the table due to Having to wipe off any polishing oils prior to the final step?

I don’t use coatings, I’m a sealant person. I also never wipe off anything with IPA or do a prep wipe prior to applying lsp, because there’s no issues, just that way I like it.

I wouldn't recommend using a "Glaze" before applying a Ceramic Coating. A "Glaze" is loaded with oils and fillers to help hide imperfections in the paint surface. Glazes work great for body shops an old single stage painted vehicles. Yes, a "Glaze" can look amazing that's why a lot of body shops use them and also classic car owners that attend car shows. They just don't offer any durability or protection.

The oils in a true "Polish" are basically for lubrication. You want to remove those oils from the painted surface after polishing, so the ceramic coating can bond properly. Not an issue with Carnauba Waxes or Paint Sealants.

Ceramic Coatings are pretty easy to work with. It's all the prep work that's the hard part.

There's nothing wrong with using a paint sealant. Paint sealants are very glossy, slick and durable and much easier to work with IMO.

 

[The Guz]

It’s been a while, but I did try the
1st version of the McKee’s Paint Coating on sections of my car along with a couple of customers vehicles. Like I said it’s been a couple of years, and I’m not sure if that coating is even worthy of being considered a “real coating”, but there wasn’t anything memorable about it.

As a matter of fact the only thing I do remember in detail is that my paint was somehow loaded with bonded contaminants within 2-3 months and I declared it a complete fail.

That version was not a true coating. More of an enhanced sealant. The new version is more a true coating.

That is not a good way to dictate a failed coating in my personal experience. Even judging the loss of hydrophobic behavior is not a good way to judge coating failure as the coating is still there. But this is often how it’s judged as a failure.

 

[Eldorado2k]

I wouldn't recommend using a "Glaze" before applying a Ceramic Coating. A "Glaze" is loaded with oils and fillers to help hide imperfections in the paint surface. Glazes work great for body shops an old single stage painted vehicles. Yes, a "Glaze" can look amazing that's why a lot of body shops use them and also classic car owners that attend car shows. They just don't offer any durability or protection.

The oils in a true "Polish" are basically for lubrication. You want to remove those oils from the painted surface after polishing, so the ceramic coating can bond properly. Not an issue with Carnauba Waxes or Paint Sealants.

Completely agree, I wasn’t implying that I or anyone would or would want to use a glaze prior to applying a coating. I was referring to sealants and the fact that they’re able to be used while not having to sacrifice any benefits that a glaze type of polish my have provided.

That version was not a true coating. More of an enhanced sealant. The new version is more a true coating.

That is not a good way to dictate a failed coating in my personal experience. Even judging the loss of hydrophobic behavior is not a good way to judge coating failure as the coating is still there. But this is often how it’s judged as a failure.

Everyone has the right to their opinion, and I’m not about to try and say that my way of thinking should suddenly change your mind at all..

But if a lsp reaches the point where it’s allowed contaminants to bond to the paint, that’s about as significant as it gets in my book.

Next you mention hydrophobic behavior, and IMO that would probably be next in line.. If those 2 benefits are no longer available, then what else is left or worth sticking around for? Even if water behavior is somehow revived, is it even worth it considering those bonded contaminants remain on the surface until they’re mechanically removed?

 

[noorth]

Eldorado2k, since you spend a lot of time around cars you should try a high solid coating. The blackfire black edition from my reading seems to be like the newer generation of coatings that are really easy to use.

What have you got to lose?

 

[The Guz]

Everyone has the right to their opinion, and I’m not about to try and say that my way of thinking should suddenly change your mind at all..

But if a lsp reaches the point where it’s allowed contaminants to bond to the paint, that’s about as significant as it gets in my book.

Next you mention hydrophobic behavior, and IMO that would probably be next in line.. If those 2 benefits are no longer available, then what else is left or worth sticking around for? Even if water behavior is somehow revived, is it even worth it considering those bonded contaminants remain on the surface until they’re mechanically removed?

I didn’t say you or anyone is not entitled to their own opinion. And you didn’t change my mind whatsoever. I know what to expect from a coating and understand their pros and cons.

I also base my findings on experience rather than opinion. Opinions are just that and you know the saying about opinions.

There are ways to clean up a coating. I won’t go into details on that as there is plenty of information available.

My comments are that there is no best coating. It’s all relative to what checks the boxes for each individual. Coating X could be better than coating Y and vice versa.

Gloss is brought by polishing and not the coating, wax or sealant regardless of panel prep. There is no exact number on the percentage a particular protraction adds to the look. Could be 10%, 5%, etc. Each individuals calibrated eye will dictate that.

 

[Eldorado2k]

Eldorado2k, since you spend a lot of time around cars you should try a high solid coating. The blackfire black edition from my reading seems to be like the newer generation of coatings that are really easy to use.

What have you got to lose?

I’ve got the 100% smoothness of my paint to lose. Lol.

I know a sealant can protect against bonded contaminants in the somewhat harsh air polluted environment where my vehicle lives. I haven’t seen anyone talk about any coating in that same regard. That’s the main reason why I haven’t been interested.

I didn’t say you or anyone is not entitled to their own opinion. And you didn’t change my mind whatsoever.

I wasn’t referring to my opinion, I was referring to yours… You have the right to your opinion, as does everyone else, and I was in no way trying to discount it, that’s what I was saying.

And I know I wasn’t going to change your opinion… I clearly stated that I was in no way attempting or expecting to. I don’t understand how you miss understood those 2 parts of my post.

 

[Eldorado2k]

Gloss is brought by polishing and not the coating, wax or sealant regardless of panel prep. There is no exact number on the percentage a particular protraction adds to the look. Could be 10%, 5%, etc. Each individuals calibrated eye will dictate that.

I’d say you’re wrong about this.^
I’ll refer back to the label of Meguiars Ultimate Polish for what can’t be ignored when it comes to gloss and everything that comes along with it.

-The label states “For deep reflections & hi-gloss”
-“Adds depth of color prior to waxing, especially on dark colored cars”

Aka it has the ability to darken paint.
I’m no chemist, but I’d be willing to bet that any darkening of the paint is thanks to the polishing oils.


You say that gloss is brought by polishing and not the coating, wax, or sealant… I disagree because the description of gloss as stated on that bottles label makes perfect sense to me. Depth of color is a significant factor, and maybe coatings can’t achieve it, but a good sealant or wax certainly can.

Something as simple as Beadmaker makes a clear difference that can be described as “depth of color” aka darkening of the paint just like it’s described on that label.

Our eyes don’t lie, there’s a clear difference. This more than qualifies as gloss factor in my book. Doesn’t everyone like deep dark black paint vs. dry almost ashy version of black paint? [that’s honestly the best way I could describe how it looked like irl]

Any good sealant or wax can achieve that.^
Based on the posts in this thread it seems like coatings don’t have that same type of effect on the paint, which I would consider a fairly significant drawback.

 

[vobro]

I’d say you’re wrong about this.^
I’ll refer back to the label of Meguiars Ultimate Polish for what can’t be ignored when it comes to gloss and everything that comes along with it.

-The label states “For deep reflections & hi-gloss”
-“Adds depth of color prior to waxing, especially on dark colored cars”

Aka it has the ability to darken paint.
I’m no chemist, but I’d be willing to bet that any darkening of the paint is thanks to the polishing oils.


You say that gloss is brought by polishing and not the coating, wax, or sealant… I disagree because the description of gloss as stated on that bottles label makes perfect sense to me. Depth of color is a significant factor, and maybe coatings can’t achieve it, but a good sealant or wax certainly can.

Something as simple as Beadmaker makes a clear difference that can be described as “depth of color” aka darkening of the paint just like it’s described on that label.

Our eyes don’t lie, there’s a clear difference. This more than qualifies as gloss factor in my book. Doesn’t everyone like deep dark black paint vs. dry almost ashy version of black paint? [that’s honestly the best way I could describe how it looked like irl]

Any good sealant or wax can achieve that.^
Based on the posts in this thread it seems like coatings don’t have that same type of effect on the paint, which I would consider a fairly significant drawback.

Yes any good sealant/wax can achieve it, just doesn’t last as long. In my experience CQUK and Adams Graphene Coating adds significant depth and a darkening effect that really hangs in there, I’ve split panels against other coating and sealants and that effect lasted thru the experiments.

Just the fact that this topic keeps coming up and has for so long after many years with the coatings being available says to me, everybody’s take on looks is different, everyone’s perceived outcome is different,marketing is truly the bones of a capitalist economy and none off us will never know what’s really in any of there products

 

[Coatingsarecrack]

So just my opinion but On my shadow black mustang I loved the gloss CqUK topped with CanCoat looked.

The Polishing definitely did the heavy lifting but i could see a real difference after the coating.

I couldn’t stop looking at it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[The Guz]

I wasn’t referring to my opinion, I was referring to yours… You have the right to your opinion, as does everyone else, and I was in no way trying to discount it, that’s what I was saying.

And I know I wasn’t going to change your opinion… I clearly stated that I was in no way attempting or expecting to. I don’t understand how you miss understood those 2 parts of my post.

As I mentioned I am basing it on actual experience with coatings and not opinion.

"No way trying to discount it" and then the following post you're wrong. Right lol.

I’d say you’re wrong about this.^
I’ll refer back to the label of Meguiars Ultimate Polish for what can’t be ignored when it comes to gloss and everything that comes along with it.

-The label states “For deep reflections & hi-gloss”
-“Adds depth of color prior to waxing, especially on dark colored cars”


Aka it has the ability to darken paint.
I’m no chemist, but I’d be willing to bet that any darkening of the paint is thanks to the polishing oils.


You say that gloss is brought by polishing and not the coating, wax, or sealant… I disagree because the description of gloss as stated on that bottles label makes perfect sense to me. Depth of color is a significant factor, and maybe coatings can’t achieve it, but a good sealant or wax certainly can.

Something as simple as Beadmaker makes a clear difference that can be described as “depth of color” aka darkening of the paint just like it’s described on that label.

Our eyes don’t lie, there’s a clear difference. This more than qualifies as gloss factor in my book. Doesn’t everyone like deep dark black paint vs. dry almost ashy version of black paint? [that’s honestly the best way I could describe how it looked like irl]

Any good sealant or wax can achieve that.^
Based on the posts in this thread it seems like coatings don’t have that same type of effect on the paint, which I would consider a fairly significant drawback.

Oh boy. Here we go with the you're wrong and I am right. If it makes you happy then just for the sake of ending this conversation then yes you are right . I should have stuck with my gut and not even responded to your original post as I have been doing for the longest time. I violated my own rule on this one and that is on me. Back to following my rule on this. Wasted breath on my part going back and forth with you and derailing this thread.

Apologies to the op.

 

[TTQ B4U]

ka it has the ability to darken paint.
I’m no chemist, but I’d be willing to bet that any darkening of the paint is thanks to the polishing oils. You say that gloss is brought by polishing and not the coating, wax, or sealant… I disagree because the description of gloss as stated on that bottles label makes perfect sense to me. Depth of color is a significant factor, and maybe coatings can’t achieve it, but a good sealant or wax certainly can.

WD is a classic example of showing how carrier solvents and oils darken paint. Just like WD40 those oils in the polish evaporate and disperse very quickly. Pointless to rely on them really. Unless you're flipping a back-row junker that morning and want to wipe it down with WD40 like a realtor would stainless steel appliances in a house they are showing on Sunday.

However, that's not the reasoning behind polishing noting that. Its that they are clarifying the surface through polishing that allows a visual depth to be seen. No randoms swirls and defects to hide the true color, metallic flake, etc. The fact still stands that gloss and reflectivity are indeed 99.9% through the prep and polishing. Coatings and sealants are barely a few microns thick thus they aren't going to really add noticeable gloss or depth. They do fill in the micro scratches created when polishing and thus "level" the surface more but that is really splitting hairs. Gloss meters will show the increase but as a whole the increase is still minimal.

 

[Bruno Soares]

For the darkening of the paint discussion, I definitely see more darkening coming from a coating than a sealant or wax. UK3.0 clearly makes the paint look darker and richer. I still think a wax/sealant adds more depth but the amount of reflection coming from a coated car is amazing.

I also had my first coating experience with McKee's 37, back then it was the 2nd gen of the coating which was already better than what Eldo tried, but it still didn't impress me at all. Lasted about a year on a car that is outside 24x7. It was a PITA to wipe off (later I was told that it was already in the process of curing, even though it was a brand new bottle).

For my second coating experience I went with Gyeon Syncro and that was far superior to McKee's 37, super easy to apply and lasted the 18 months or so I left it on the car, perhaps not as crazy hydrophobic due to Skin wearing faster than Mohs, but it was still working well.

Then I decided to give CarPro a try with UK3.0 and Gliss v2 and that was so good, I haven't tried other coatings since. My last one I used UK3.0 and SiC for extra durability compared to Gliss v2 but I will say that Gliss v2 is far easier to apply than SiC. I found SiC finicky with flash times and it gives you a small window to wipe off. Easy to do it too soon and shortly after it's too late and hard to remove. It's not bad, just takes more attention than UK3.0 which seems to give a large window for easy wipe off.

 

[Loach]

You're likely going to have to experiment to find one that's going to work for your paint and your eye. The first thing I would do is test various toppers before polishing Pure off. Try Gyeon Cure first, Bead Maker is another option that played well with Prime (1st version of Pure) when I tested them.

But the test panel that I regularly performed gloss measurements with, I've never seen a paint coating improve the gloss numbers beyond what it was reading after that panel was jeweled to the max with abrasives/polishes. Most coatings are within 1-2 gloss units of each other, extremely comparable.

Some coatings out there will definitely darken paint more compared to others, as many have already said CQUK 3.0 definitely has more of a darkening effect compared to some others that I've worked with, but still pretty slight. I've seen Gtechniq EXO have a better darkening effect compared to something like CarPro Gliss.

For me, properties like paint type/color/condition and the exact lighting hitting the paint at that one point in time that you're looking at it, are infinitely more responsible for the look compared to what's protecting the paint. The difference between saran wrap plastic compared to deep rich carnauba glow to me with the same wax or coating is 2 hours, 3PM to 5PM, or even slight 12PM overcast vs. maximum 12PM Florida sun. CQUK on top of Ford Ruby Red is going to look different compared to Honda Atomic Blue Metallic, with Ruby Red giving off much more of a wet glow.

The body shop laying down the paint on a respray is certainly more responsible for the maximum amount of depth that paint can offer just based on how flat they can lay it down, how well they can sand it, and especially the type and quality of the clearcoat itself that they're spraying. How well you're able to polish that paint out afterwards has a huge impact on the look.

Pure is a high quality coating, I would be surprised if you would be able to notice a huge difference in the looks against another coating, but if you find one then be sure to let us know.

 

[dgage]

I think part of this is marketing because Meguiar's understands the market and their customers.

They know a polish isn't necessarily going to wow someone on white or silver paint like it will with black paint. Dark colors show imperfections more readily and by corollary, will show the benefits of a polish more readily. So they're marketing to the customers that will benefit the most and be happiest because they'll see that largest potential difference. We've seen posts on AGO where users weren't happy that their white and silver paint didn't pop as much as they expected after polishing the car.