Best one-step for production detailing

Don M

Don M

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I have approximately 10 cars lined up so far this summer to detail, some of them are police cars from a semi-local jurisdiction. What I need is the best one step to make the detailing go quicker and easier with the best results (the PD isn't a 'high-dollar' job - it's more like a community service type thing with a few dollars thrown in for my time ... ~$100 car).

I recently sold a cold air intake online and I now have $80 in my PayPal account to play with (no approval from the wife needed :dblthumb2: ).

I would like to order from the AG store for the best prices and so I can get honest reviews of the products. I'm not sticking with OTC this time, so anything goes. I will also need links to pint-sized application bottles so I don't have to try and dispense product from a gallon jug while detailing a car.

I will probably also put a coat of Meguiar's Ultimate Fast Finish on as a sealer - since it goes on so sparingly and easily (plus it's cheap and I already have it).

The details may start as early as next week, so let's get those recommendations coming in so I can order the stuff and be ready in case next weekend is a go.

Thanks all.
 
A good one step for me is sonax perfect finish. Not sure about the bottle sizes. I bought the big bottle. Definitely paid less than $80.
 
I like both rupes Uhs and hd speed. Both products go on easy, clean and correct and come off easily. Can't go wrong with either one. Phil
 
Because you have a dedicated LSP chosen I would probably opt for a medium to light cut polish to brighten up the paints first. I have my AIO favorites (HD Speed and McKee's 360) but i don't finish those with a dedicated LSP so they stand alone.
 
Paul A. said:
Because you have a dedicated LSP chosen I would probably opt for a medium to light cut polish to brighten up the paints first. I have my AIO favorites (HD Speed and McKee's 360) but i don't finish those with a dedicated LSP so they stand alone.
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That's also a good point an AIO is just that it's designed to be used and done, nothing else after. If you are going to top then maybe a good polish and then your topper would be a better route and it would probably bond better as well

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View attachment 57013View attachment 57014View attachment 57015View attachment 57016View attachment 57017

McKee's 360, it's a time saver, money maker, people pleaser.

For production work you can not beat the results it provides.

Its going to remove moderate to light defects, give great gloss while laying down a durable layer of sealant.

Attractive price point.

16oz for 19.99 I would opt for the 32oz 29.99 before coupon.

http://www.autogeekmobile.net/fco32ozxmt36.html

Sent from my SM-N920V using Autogeekonline mobile app
 
I would guess that the cut of the McGee's 360 would change depending on my using a cutting or polishing pad? I have only seen one of the cars that I am potentially doing and it is almost like a pastel blueish/gray Hyundai, which hides defects well so I don't see it taking that much time or effort ... it's been moderately well cared for. The others are complete mysteries as to what make & model they are, let alone color.

The police cars (including a few newer Explorers), I'm sure are abused. Fortunately on those, they don't expect a show car - or even a showroom (with the DISO option) shine, so as long as I can knock out some of the defects and make them at least respectable, they will be happy.

On the others though, if the first pass with the 360 doesn't give me the results I'm looking for, would a second pass be recommended - or would I be better stepping it up a notch to a more aggressive polish/compound ... (I have Megs Ult Polish & Compound on hand)?
 
So no matter what type you use changing the pads going to change what you get but for all in ones I usually do the round for anything more than that and I feel like I should I use a dedicated polish so when you're using Paul and one your main goal is speed to speed up the process and get things done faster and save time overall

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Don M said:
I would guess that the cut of the McGee's 360 would change depending on my using a cutting or polishing pad? I have only seen one of the cars that I am potentially doing and it is almost like a pastel blueish/gray Hyundai, which hides defects well so I don't see it taking that much time or effort ... it's been moderately well cared for. The others are complete mysteries as to what make & model they are, let alone color.

The police cars (including a few newer Explorers), I'm sure are abused. Fortunately on those, they don't expect a show car - or even a showroom (with the DISO option) shine, so as long as I can knock out some of the defects and make them at least respectable, they will be happy.

On the others though, if the first pass with the 360 doesn't give me the results I'm looking for, would a second pass be recommended - or would I be better stepping it up a notch to a more aggressive polish/compound ... (I have Megs Ult Polish & Compound on hand)?
Click to expand...

You can use an AIO with any pad combo you like. The thing is an AIO is limited to what it can do in terms of correction. It won't knock out the heavy stuff but the shallow stuff would be no problem. Again it varies by paint and pad combination.

You can also use what you have on hand as far as dedicated product. UP and UC can be used on various pads as well just like any polish. So that is another thing to consider.

I agree with the others that if you are going to top an AIO then just go ahead and polish. Or just follow up that AIO with a spray wax and be done.
 
IF I do top the 360, it would be with Meguiars Ultimate Fast Finish which would only add maybe 20 minutes to the detail.
 
Don M said:
IF I do top the 360, it would be with Meguiars Ultimate Fast Finish which would only add maybe 20 minutes to the detail.
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Plus from what I'm seeing and hearing the fast and it was really good at repelling dust so I'm going to start testing out here shortly but that would be a nice shine with dust repellent as well

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Don M said:
IF I do top the 360, it would be with Meguiars Ultimate Fast Finish which would only add maybe 20 minutes to the detail.
Click to expand...

With 360 you won't need it. 360 contains a sealant in it.
 
The Guz said:
With 360 you won't need it. 360 contains a sealant in it.
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I know, depending on how long it takes me to do each car, I might put a quick coat of Fast Finish just to make the customer feel they got their money's worth. The whole "overdeliver" on what they're expecting to get thing.
 
Give KLASSE a shot. It goes on easy, comes off easy and gives a heck of a shine. AG has it on sale.
 
Don M said:
The police cars (including a few newer Explorers), I'm sure are abused. Fortunately on those, they don't expect a show car - or even a showroom (with the DISO option) shine, so as long as I can knock out some of the defects and make them at least respectable, they will be happy.

On the others though, if the first pass with the 360 doesn't give me the results I'm looking for, would a second pass be recommended - or would I be better stepping it up a notch to a more aggressive polish/compound ... (I have Megs Ult Polish & Compound on hand)?
Click to expand...

At $100 a car, if you look at the price of Meguiars D151 you can pick up a gallon for under $40 which is by far cheaper than most AIO's and it finishes out nicely. Then, if you must and it makes you feel better make a pass with the UP, that is some great working stuff.

Cruzscarwash said:
Plus from what I'm seeing and hearing the fast and it was really good at repelling dust so I'm going to start testing out here shortly but that would be a nice shine with dust repellent as well

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Click to expand...

The UFF has done nothing for me down here in Baton Rouge to repel dust but it definitely produces a very slick finish and nice shine. I will probably use it once a month just because it is cheap, easy to apply, and I just like it.

Ron
 
Before mckees released a dedicated sealant I used it a few times like a wax to protect some cars.

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Don M said:
I know, depending on how long it takes me to do each car, I might put a quick coat of Fast Finish just to make the customer feel they got their money's worth. The whole "overdeliver" on what they're expecting to get thing.
Click to expand...

I understand that and I have no issue with over delivering. I could accomplish the same thing with say using 360 topped with a final wipe with fast wax. Just saying that the protection of similar products does not stack up. Also perform the work that the customer is asking for. You can upsell them later on and say hey I tried this process on this part of the car. It will offer a better look and performance....etc.

Based on what you had posted, the police officers are not expecting a show room detail. I would definitely consider doing what Joe mentions further below on 360 as a one step and just deliver. You also have the option to just clay, protect and spot correct.

But hey if you wish to top then by all means go right ahead. As long as you are having fun. You and I are not wrong on how we see things. It is just my personal outlook on this topic of AIO's.

Don M said:
I would guess that the cut of the McGee's 360 would change depending on my using a cutting or polishing pad? I have only seen one of the cars that I am potentially doing and it is almost like a pastel blueish/gray Hyundai, which hides defects well so I don't see it taking that much time or effort ... it's been moderately well cared for. The others are complete mysteries as to what make & model they are, let alone color.

The police cars (including a few newer Explorers), I'm sure are abused. Fortunately on those, they don't expect a show car - or even a showroom (with the DISO option) shine, so as long as I can knock out some of the defects and make them at least respectable, they will be happy.

On the others though, if the first pass with the 360 doesn't give me the results I'm looking for, would a second pass be recommended - or would I be better stepping it up a notch to a more aggressive polish/compound ... (I have Megs Ult Polish & Compound on hand)?
Click to expand...


Joe@NextLevelDetail said:
View attachment 57013View attachment 57014View attachment 57015View attachment 57016View attachment 57017

McKee's 360, it's a time saver, money maker, people pleaser.

For production work you can not beat the results it provides.

Its going to remove moderate to light defects, give great gloss while laying down a durable layer of sealant.

Attractive price point.

16oz for 19.99 I would opt for the 32oz 29.99 before coupon.

32 oz. McKee's 37 360? Corrects, Cleans, Seals

Sent from my SM-N920V using Autogeekonline mobile app
Click to expand...

I would consider doing exactly this as Joe has mentioned. One step and done. 360 should be more than enough in terms of protection.
 
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