Best pad to use with D151?
- Thread starter greg72982
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Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
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When trying to do a single step using a one-step cleaner wax you want to try to stick with polishing pads.
You can use a cutting pad but it's always possible when you use an aggressive cutting pad that the pad itself can leave micro-marring.
So try to stick with any quality polishing pad.
You can use a cutting pad but it's always possible when you use an aggressive cutting pad that the pad itself can leave micro-marring.
So try to stick with any quality polishing pad.
maximus20895
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- Apr 13, 2010
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Yea, I don't see any harm in making it better. Make sure the paint is fully cured first though.
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
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I've used both close cell and open cell and the bigger picture is to simply try to avoid an aggressive pad if you only want to do one thing to the paint, that is one machine process besides the normal washing, claying etc.
If you use an aggressive pad and get DA Haze then you have to remove the haze and now you're at two steps and if you're going to do two steps you're going to invest more time and lose profit if you're doing this for money and if you're doing it because you "care" for example the car is yours, the might as well do dedicated procedures for better results.
White polishing pads work perfectly fine and before close celled Hydro Techs in a thin version became available for the DA back in September of 2010 we didn't even get this deep over open versus closed cell foam.
See the post mark date in this thread,
Thin is in... New Lake Country Hydro-Tech Low Profile 5 1/2 x 7/8 Inch Foam Pads
Unless you know for a fact your "new" car was repainted, you're not working on fresh paint you're working on cured paint actually baked-on at the factory and by the time it was dumped out of the manufacturing plant the paint was completely cured, case-hardened and ready to use ANY kind of compound, polish or wax on.
Cleaner/waxes are great for new cars just match the cleaning level to the condition of the paint and the paint on a new car should be in great condition so use a "light" cleaning cleaner/wax.
:dblthumb2:
Matt Cardoni
New member
- Mar 4, 2012
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I personally use the meguiars yellow pad, which should be pretty similar to the tangerine HT pad. That should finish nicely on just about any paint. If more cut is needed, I've found the MF cutting pads work really well and finish great on all but super soft paints.
- Thread starter
- #9
I've used both close cell and open cell and the bigger picture is to simply try to avoid an aggressive pad if you only want to do one thing to the paint, that is one machine process besides the normal washing, claying etc.
If you use an aggressive pad and get DA Haze then you have to remove the haze and now you're at two steps and if you're going to do two steps you're going to invest more time and lose profit if you're doing this for money and if you're doing it because you "care" for example the car is yours, the might as well do dedicated procedures for better results.
White polishing pads work perfectly fine and before close celled Hydro Techs in a thin version became available for the DA back in September of 2010 we didn't even get this deep over open versus closed cell foam.
See the post mark date in this thread,
Thin is in... New Lake Country Hydro-Tech Low Profile 5 1/2 x 7/8 Inch Foam Pads
I guess I was trying to "cheat" so to speak as I already have three new and unused tangerine HT's but no white pads.
Thanks again for the information.
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 7
Then use them! My point wasn't to say use white foam polishing pads, my point was to use ANY "polishing" pad.
Run what you brung...
The bigger point was if you only want to do one machine step to the paint you don't want to use an aggressive pad because while it might remove the defects it also might leave the paint hazy.
If the aggressive pad leaves the paint hazy and you have to re-buff to remove the haze you're no longer doing a one-step but a two-step.
So if the goal is to only do one machine step to the paint, try to use a polishing pad. Not as aggressive as cutting pad but will finish out acceptable.
You can use a finishing pad if the paint is still in good to excellent condition and you're basically doing "maintenance" work, not restoration work.
Make sense?
- Thread starter
- #11
Then use them! My point wasn't to say use white foam polishing pads, my point was to use ANY "polishing" pad.
Run what you brung...
The bigger point was if you only want to do one machine step to the paint you don't want to use an aggressive pad because while it might remove the defects it also might leave the paint hazy.
If the aggressive pad leaves the paint hazy and you have to re-buff to remove the haze you're no longer doing a one-step but a two-step.
So if the goal is to only do one machine step to the paint, try to use a polishing pad. Not as aggressive as cutting pad but will finish out acceptable.
You can use a finishing pad if the paint is still in good to excellent condition and you're basically doing "maintenance" work, not restoration work.
Make sense?
Yeah I caught that the first time. I may just get white pads anyway though as I really do want to keep it simple.
Last time I tried to use the Wolfgang twins it took me 12 hours and I never got to use the FG. I went from TSR to the sealant and still was pretty happy with it but not the time it took.
That was a user issue, I know, but I feel I'll never be satisfied anyway so I got the D151 and will live with that. I read on here it has the best cut of most one steppers so I figured I'd give it a shot. While I try to treat my car as being special it's still a DD for now so I have to accept it as such.