best polish for paint in good condition??

Speardog said:
Should I use a glaze after the pol d before LSP?
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For yours needs (my opinion). Meguiars M205, or menzerna sf4000, ipa 10% (alcohol) wipe down, your favourite lsp, then apply glaze as you like as a beauty product. Applying glaze under your lsp will reduce the durability of your lsp greatly.
 
Can anyone recommend P21S Paintwork cleanser? I read a couple good reviews but I'm not really sure I know what it is. I know it is used to prep paint prior to sealing. I was thinking of trying it and although it is listed as a polish, it defines itself as "Gloss Enhancing Paintwork Cleanser". Is that just another way to say "polish"? Would this be the same kind of product as Klasse AIO?
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
For a Fine Cut Polish, (and that is a catagory), get some Menzerna SF 4000

This polish works on pretty much any paint finish that I've ever worked on. I use it to prep any black paint panels to get them perfect when I want to comparison test other products.

It's very user friendly and can be used with any tool or by hand.


:)
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Hey Mike, I've seen this lineup before but nothing with the new FG-400 in the lineup. I realize that it's a compound but in terms of aggressiveness, where does that fit in within the overall Menzerna lineup?
 
Shortspark said:
Can anyone recommend P21S Paintwork cleanser? I read a couple good reviews but I'm not really sure I know what it is. I know it is used to prep paint prior to sealing. I was thinking of trying it and although it is listed as a polish, it defines itself as "Gloss Enhancing Paintwork Cleanser". Is that just another way to say "polish"? Would this be the same kind of product as Klasse AIO?
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It is a pre-wax cleaner so it won't remove swirls but it will deep clean the paint. In general if you are removing haze or swirls you are polishing to get the paint ready for sealing/waxing; I call this a correction process. Polishing will do that as well as deep clean the paint. If you do not need to remove haze or swirls you would just need to use an AIO or pre-wax cleaner; I call this a maintenance process. The reason why I separate the two, is because it is way too easy to confuse a correction product vs. a maintenance product, and in general you wouldn't combine both products in one session. It may not be a technically correct way of talking about it but it works in my head. ;-)
 
mwoolfso said:
It is a pre-wax cleaner so it won't remove swirls but it will deep clean the paint. In general if you are removing haze or swirls you are polishing to get the paint ready for sealing/waxing; I call this a correction process. Polishing will do that as well as deep clean the paint. If you do not need to remove haze or swirls you would just need to use an AIO or pre-wax cleaner; I call this a maintenance process. The reason why I separate the two, is because it is way too easy to confuse a correction product vs. a maintenance product, and in general you wouldn't combine both products in one session. It may not be a technically correct way of talking about it but it works in my head. ;-)
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What you said makes sense and I see why the two are considered separate processes. My car is a seven month old Mercedes in Diamond White - the paint is perfect and there is no haze or swirls to remove. Since correction is not part of my game plan right now, all I would need to do is prep the paint for the wax/sealant with a cleaner.

I've detailed this car twice since I've owned it, both times claying and then straight to the sealant. Next time I think I will strip the sealant before I begin with a cleaner such as that P21S product I was talking about. I could strip the LSP with lots of things but this P21S is also suppose to deep clean the paint at the same time. I think it is made in Germany with BMW and Mercedes in mind. The description does say it will remove swirls but it is primarily a paint cleanser and does not say it is an AIO such as Klasse. Even if my new paint does not really need it, I suppose you can never have too clean a paint before laying the sealant.
 
addysdaddy said:
Hey Mike, I've seen this lineup before but nothing with the new FG-400 in the lineup.

I realize that it's a compound but in terms of aggressiveness, where does that fit in within the overall Menzerna lineup?
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Powergloss is stated to remove down to 1500 grit sanding marks and FG 400 is stated to remove down to #1200 grit sanding marks. So on paper it looks like the FG 400 is more aggressive. One thing for sure, it buffs better and finishes nicer in my experience than Powergloss.


:)
 
If the paint is in good condition and there's minimum scratches, I would just recommend a paint cleaner such as p21s or dodo prime lite. Both are great cleaners imo
 
Has anyone experimented with Menzerna in regards to hand vs DAP application? I'm a big on hand applying everything on my car.
 
Circa40 said:
If the paint is in good condition and there's minimum scratches, I would just recommend a paint cleaner such as p21s or dodo prime lite. Both are great cleaners imo
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I have Pinnacle paint cleansing lotion. I'm assuming that is a cleanser and not a polish?
 
This is my go to: "Poorboy's Polish w/ Sealant" You could always top with wax of your choice after sealant has cured.
 
Speardog said:
Has anyone experimented with Menzerna in regards to hand vs DAP application? I'm a big on hand applying everything on my car.
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I need to update my article list and see what I can do to make specific topics easier to find...


Check out this article from my article list... it's under the heading...



Polishing Paint by Hand



Removing Scratches By Hand



I induced straightline scratches by hand, then ran a tape line across the paint, then worked the scratches out by hand using Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover, (4 well worked applications), followed by Wolfgang Finishing Glaze, (2 gentle applications), then striped with 17% IPA

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I try to do all my work by machine but there are some places a buffing pad on a machine can't get to or it's risky.


:xyxthumbs:
 
Here's a brand new article that I have not been able to update and get onto my article list yet...


How to remove wetsanding scratches by hand - FG 400


Anytime you're wetsanding a car there will be places you cannot easily or safely get a rotary buffer and a buffing pad to remove your sanding marks. In these situations you need an aggressive compound that you can use by hand.

The trick is to remove your sanding marks while not scouring the paint from the abrasives used in the compound. If you leave light or shallow scratches that's okay because the tricky and important goal is to be able to remove the sanding marks, you can always refine your results using a finer polish applied by hand.

For the wetsanding, cutting and buffing project on the mystery car this weekend there will be places where it will be risky to remove sanding marks using a machine, at least the initial cut.

So before leaving the well equipped Autogeek garage, I machine sanded one of our black paint panels and then tested the new Menzerna FG 400...


Paint panel machine sanded using #3000 Triazact...

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Use a cloth applicator with a nap
To make any compound or polish more aggressive use a cloth applicator pad or cloth material that has a nap. The larger more stout the nap the more aggressive the abrading action.

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Chemically stripping the paint
Looks great before chemically stripping so lets strip the paint to make sure the sanding mars are in fact removed. I don't care if there are toweling marks because I expect that from the pressure I'm going to be applying when rubbing the paint hard to remove small particles of paint.

Removing clear coat paint by hand requires putting some pressure behind the pad...

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Sanding marks removed, only fine or shallow toweling marks remain...

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Close-up cropped out of the above shot...

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Chunk of masking tape to give my camera something more definitive to focus on...

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From another angle you can see the flash of my camera lighting up the paint but you can also see how distinct the 4 florescent tube lights are overhead.

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Here I've pushed the panel closer to the work bench to capture a reflection of the holes in the peg board...

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Success!
We'll be using Menzerna FG 400 to cut out our sanding marks for the wetsanding project this weekend and for the areas we cannot safely buff by machine we can use FG 400 by hand. Yancy says he can capture this on video too...



:)
 
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