best thing to slow down self-inflicted clear coat failure?

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binly

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so a few months ago, the garage door closed down on my Mustang and caused a large paint chip / this weird line on my rear end. at the time it wouldn't come off from compounding so I left it as is, although I did attempt to (poorly) fix the paint chip. Today, I decided to wet sand at 2500 grit using the unigrit paper and I got the line off from above, but this happened very quickly... I guess the paint was very thin from the accident. At first I thought it was oxidation so I went over it with the PC but quickly realized the black paint was coming off...

Now I know the only fix is a respray, but I don't have that kind of money right now. So what is the BEST thing you've found to slow down the failure? I could live with the size it is right now, even though the car is in otherwise perfect condition.
 
ouch! having done some paint work you are probably right in a repaint to completely correct; if you just want to slow the process, you could re-sand with the area and surrounding with the unigrit, respray in a sweeping manner with something like a 1 or 2k aerosol, let it dry, sand with 3000 and buff and wax. I've done this with a bumper repair, and as long as you keep it protected, it will last awhile; just be aware that you'll be spraying clear on a larger area than the chip size. good luck.
 
JimmyH5 said:
ouch! having done some paint work you are probably right in a repaint to completely correct; if you just want to slow the process, you could re-sand with the area and surrounding with the unigrit, respray in a sweeping manner with something like a 1 or 2k aerosol, let it dry, sand with 3000 and buff and wax. I've done this with a bumper repair, and as long as you keep it protected, it will last awhile; just be aware that you'll be spraying clear on a larger area than the chip size. good luck.
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What about applying clear coat over it to stop it, and then sanding that down? I read somewhere that could MAYBE help, emphasis on the maybe part...
 
Yes, that is what I meant; sand the spot for adhesion and surrounding area... like several inches around it... is actually easier to blend if the area is larger... watched youtube on blending paint... used aerosol from autopainttouchup to do a bumper spot and body shop couldn't tell. You'd have to have a good hand to do it. You actually want to get the damaged area first, then another coat over it and area around it, and then another coat over all that and a larger area around it... the point being that the clear would be thickest on the damaged area. make sense? flash time between coats, etc. You can see that it is easier to do a much larger area and not concentrate on just the damaged area as you are getting the clear thinner the further you get away from the bad spot. Hope that helps. Don't be in a hurry if you attempt it... takes some finesse.
 
JimmyH5 said:
Yes, that is what I meant; sand the spot for adhesion and surrounding area... like several inches around it... is actually easier to blend if the area is larger... watched youtube on blending paint... used aerosol from autopainttouchup to do a bumper spot and body shop couldn't tell. You'd have to have a good hand to do it. You actually want to get the damaged area first, then another coat over it and area around it, and then another coat over all that and a larger area around it... the point being that the clear would be thickest on the damaged area. make sense? flash time between coats, etc. You can see that it is easier to do a much larger area and not concentrate on just the damaged area as you are getting the clear thinner the further you get away from the bad spot. Hope that helps. Don't be in a hurry if you attempt it... takes some finesse.
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Thanks. I ordered some 2k clear. Will be taking your advice and doing it this weekend.
 
No problem.... keep the can the same distance from the surface when applying your coats... not pulling away as you end the spray stroke... don't want to end up with lots of clear dusting that you'll have to wet-sand off before buffing; hope that makes sense... usually, 24hrs. later you can wet-sand and buff; whatever the 2K can says. Keep us posted.
 
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