Bicycle Protection?
- Thread starter jbone
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Blackthorn One
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I would consider Opti Coat for either. It is the most durable and is the most long lasting. It is like applying a clear coat with a foam pad.
Otherwise, you can use paint sealant or wax on paint, metal, or carbon fiber. Some people recommend 303 Aerospace protectant for carbon fiber instead of wax, because it offers 100% UV protection. You can treat your bike's surfaces just like you would your car, although it sounds like you would want products geared more for durability than looks. Collinite 476 or 915 for waxes, or Griot's garage paint sealant is what I would consider for a sealant. I use Wolfgang sealant on my bike, but it's a road bike, and I always store it inside. I suggest you store your nice bike in the house to keep it nice. It makes a huge difference compared to it being in the garage.
The one thing you need to be careful about applying protectant to bicycles is never use any sort of protectant on braking surfaces, like the sides of your rims if you have rim brakes, and nothing on the tread of the tires, either. The grip of the brake shoes on the rims and the grip of the tires on the road cannot afford to be compromised at all. Just clean them and be sure any residue of any harsh chemical cleaner is removed from the tires rims, and brake shoes completely.
I've beaten the heck out of my 15 year old aluminum mountain bike and have no issues with oxidation other than some slight orange in some of the stainless steel allen screwheads (which comes off easily with a cotton swab). I store my bike indoors but I have left it outside on many summer nights on Cape Cod where the nights are full of moisture. I'll usually towel it off the next morning. My suggestion is not to worry about it too much but be mindful to dry it when it gets wet.
- Periodically spray the screws with WD-40, Corrosion-X, or Boeshield.
- Wipe the chain often and use the proper chain lube (bike specific). There are 3 different types: 1) lube that goes on wet and stays wet, 2) lube that goes on wet and dries to touch, and 3) lube that is like a wax. It depends on conditions outside: dry, dusty, or wet. Tri-Flow seems to be a favorite jack of all trades including lubing cables. Finishline is another favorite. I use Pedro's and Tri-Flow. A few drops of Tri-Flow on the cables keeps the bike braking and shifting smoothly. Some new bikes use nylon cables and may require a different type of lube.
- Some people use WD-40 to clean the chain. If you do decide to use WD-40 for chain cleaning, apply it on a rag and run the chain backwards against the rag to clean the surface of the chain. Don't spray the chain with it because WD-40 can get into the bearings of the chain and possibly thin the pre-packed lubricants and remove them. I use a biodegradable citrus cleaner from Pedros. I think alot of cyclists use just plain ole citrus cleaner.
- For the frame, make your life easy and use a spray wax.
The most important part is maintaining the chain. Keep up with it and your bike will stay cleaner and run much better.
- Periodically spray the screws with WD-40, Corrosion-X, or Boeshield.
- Wipe the chain often and use the proper chain lube (bike specific). There are 3 different types: 1) lube that goes on wet and stays wet, 2) lube that goes on wet and dries to touch, and 3) lube that is like a wax. It depends on conditions outside: dry, dusty, or wet. Tri-Flow seems to be a favorite jack of all trades including lubing cables. Finishline is another favorite. I use Pedro's and Tri-Flow. A few drops of Tri-Flow on the cables keeps the bike braking and shifting smoothly. Some new bikes use nylon cables and may require a different type of lube.
- Some people use WD-40 to clean the chain. If you do decide to use WD-40 for chain cleaning, apply it on a rag and run the chain backwards against the rag to clean the surface of the chain. Don't spray the chain with it because WD-40 can get into the bearings of the chain and possibly thin the pre-packed lubricants and remove them. I use a biodegradable citrus cleaner from Pedros. I think alot of cyclists use just plain ole citrus cleaner.
- For the frame, make your life easy and use a spray wax.
The most important part is maintaining the chain. Keep up with it and your bike will stay cleaner and run much better.
I forgot to mention, bike fit is the most important factor. Get yourself measured and then have someone help you choose the right bike and gear ratios. If the bike fits well and if it's taylored to your riding, you'll get more out of it.
Most riders don't benefit from the weight savings of carbon (ounces) when they themselves have pounds that they need to lose. Also, carbon doesn't fatigue like steel and aluminum. When it fails, it just snaps and doesn't give warning. If you're off-road, you may prefer an aluminum frame, in case you crash you can most likely ride it out. It probably takes dents better too.
Most riders don't benefit from the weight savings of carbon (ounces) when they themselves have pounds that they need to lose. Also, carbon doesn't fatigue like steel and aluminum. When it fails, it just snaps and doesn't give warning. If you're off-road, you may prefer an aluminum frame, in case you crash you can most likely ride it out. It probably takes dents better too.
If you're going to pull the bike apart, you can spray the inside of the tubes with a special sealant like Frame Saver and move the frame around until it's all coated inside. Some people use motor fogging oil spray or boiled linseed oil.
I'm sure the clear film will help prevent small chips. You'd probably only need to protect the underside of the downtube, bottom bracket, and chainstays.
Keep in mind, a few battle scars on the bike isn't a bad thing, it'll show how hard you're riding. Remember.... "Pain heals, chicks dig scars, and glory last forever." -Shane Falco ;-)
I'm sure the clear film will help prevent small chips. You'd probably only need to protect the underside of the downtube, bottom bracket, and chainstays.
Keep in mind, a few battle scars on the bike isn't a bad thing, it'll show how hard you're riding. Remember.... "Pain heals, chicks dig scars, and glory last forever." -Shane Falco ;-)
Blackthorn One
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Many bicycles come from the factory with clear film on the bottom of the lower tubes. It is a great sacrificial shield that prevents chips far better than any wax. When it gets scruffy, just peel it off and apply a new strip. My bicycle came with clear film on the lower tubes. They prevent exposing the metal of the frame to the elements which would cause oxidation due to being chipped.
brentech
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- Apr 23, 2012
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I'm not sure I'd apply any sort of coating to my mountain bike. The last thing I'd want to do is create any slippery surface.
I stick to de-greasing and re-oiling my chain after particularly muddy rides, but otherwise you really shouldn't need additives as long as you give it a basic wash every now and then.
I stick to de-greasing and re-oiling my chain after particularly muddy rides, but otherwise you really shouldn't need additives as long as you give it a basic wash every now and then.
snellvilleauto
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I NEVER thought of doing anything to my bikes except lube everything well. The I do have 3M clear film on the down tube of my CF Tallboy though. Just a little protection.
Weight saving benefit of the CF is huge if you only weight a buck thirty
Frame saver only good on Steel frame to prevent RUST
Oh, don't put tire dressing on the tires
And DW40 is NOT a lube. Don't put it on your bike please.
I like mtb and it's my other hobby
Weight saving benefit of the CF is huge if you only weight a buck thirty
Frame saver only good on Steel frame to prevent RUST
Oh, don't put tire dressing on the tires
And DW40 is NOT a lube. Don't put it on your bike please.
I like mtb and it's my other hobby
Blackthorn One
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My understanding is that carbon fiber absorbs shock better than steel and especially aluminum, which is very stiff and harsh. Also, I hear that some track racers use WD 40 as a lube to reduce friction, which is ok for short rides in clean conditions, but not for longer rides or the mud. Also, I understand that the Campagnolo ceramic bearings and races are so good that you don't need to use lube.
snellvilleauto
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As far as shock absorber, i'd rate
Carbon
Steel
Aluminum
Scanidium (Niner air9)
WD40 is "ok" in a pinch, no doubt about it.
Ceramic is SMOOTH, but in the long run, you still NEED lube.
Carbon
Steel
Aluminum
Scanidium (Niner air9)
WD40 is "ok" in a pinch, no doubt about it.
Ceramic is SMOOTH, but in the long run, you still NEED lube.
Blackthorn One
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What about titanium?
I agree that in the long run you need lube. With the ceramic bearings and the special steel races, you could probably use a lower viscosity grease for less drag. It isn't just the ceramic bearings that set the Super Record bearings apart from previous bearings, it is the races. The chain is actually thinner AND stronger because of a new steel alloy they use.
snellvilleauto
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