Big thumbs up to EDGE!

[wytstang]

Kelso thanks for the info as I was one who was ding it wrong as well. Now we can all buff happy and not burn the crap out of myself pushing in the button lol....

 

[The Edge]

Kelso thanks for the info as I was one who was ding it wrong as well. Now we can all buff happy and not burn the crap out of myself pushing in the button lol....

Well I guess its kind of our fault for not realizing so many people were having trouble with the system. We do print the instructions on the back of every bag the pads come in but we know no one reads them, they just tear open the bag and throw it away, so I have attached those instructions here and they are also on our website at http://www.edgepads.com/Care.htm . You can also download a color printable .pdf version there as well. As for the 4inch Cyclo pads we have already shipped them so look for them to be available from AG shortly. This new system is so great that Cyclo users will be amazed and PC users will be converted. I only used to like and use the rotary because after about 10 minutes on the PC my hands were numb. With the Edge2000 system on the Cyclo I feel no vibrations, and it’s as smooth as a rotary but much safer because it is DA. However it is also the only DA machine I have used that can remove serious defects as well as wet sand marks. It takes a bit longer than a rotary but its much safer, and the Cyclo covers as much surface area as a true rotary 8 inch pads because it is two 4 inch pads side by side so its much faster than the PC. In my opinion the Cyclo with the Edge2000 system is a perfect marriage, and one that will convert a lot of PC users over in the near future.

​

 

[The Edge]

The following are instructions to maximize the usefulness and service life of your Edge foam buffing pads. If you'd like to print these we recommend that you download a copy (requires Adobe Acrobat Reader). If you don't have Acrobat Reader, click on the icon at right for a free download of the Acrobat Reader software. You don't need Acrobat to view the online Care Instructions below.

QuickFind
Click below to jump
to a topic
A. Connecting adapter and pad
B. Removing pad
C. Removing the Adapter
D. Buffing instructions
Proper care extends pad life
Watch the Video

A.To connect drive adapter and pad
1. Attach drive adapter to buffer
Screw the chromed drive adapter tightly onto the buffer's threaded shaft.
If you need to remove the adapter,
see C below.

2. Align hexes
Holding the pad and buffer firmly in each hand, center the pad over the adapter and rotate it until its hex aligns with the hex top of the adapter.

3. Snap pad in place


Snap the pad firmly onto the adapter. If you don't hear a snap, test the connection by wiggling the pad. Make sure the pad is firmly snapped onto the adapter before turning on the buffer.

Back to Top​

B. To remove pad
1. Position drive
With pad and adapter mounted on buffer, hold adapter with your left hand, with thumb and knuckles pressed against pad.

2. Press button
While holding buffer in left hand, grasp pad with right hand and press one finger against the release button in the center of the drive adapter.

3. Push off pad from the back


Press the release button while pushing the pad away from the buffer. The pad will release with moderate pressure.

Back to Top​

C. To remove the Adapter
While pad is still mounted on drive, hold down lock button on machine and twist the pad with the other hand. This will unscrew the adapter
from the buffer shaft.

Never use tools on the adapter.
• To disconnect adapter, place buffer on a secure surface and rotate the pad while it’s attached to the adapter.

• Adapter tension is factory set and must not be changed. Any attempt to adjust the tension may cause the pad to disengage while in use

Back to Top​

D. Buff flat to prevent damage
WARNING! Never buff at a sharp angle.
Always buff with the pad as flat as possible against the car's surface.
Buffing at an angle greater than 10 degrees will cause unsightly swirl marks and severely damage the car or pad. If you notice excessive pad wear, replace the pad immediately.
Edge™ Pads manufacturer and distributor will not assume liability for any damage caused through misuse or improper procedures.

Operate at 1800-2000 RPM

—NEVER exceed 2500 RPM​

​

 

[The Edge]

Back to Top
Proper care extends pad life
YES:
• Hand wash only, with mild soap and water.​

• Squeeze with hands, then attach to buffer and spin to remove excess water.​

• Air dry only.

NO:
• Never use spurs or metal brushes on foam pads. We recommend using The Edge™ Conditioning Brush™, available from your Edge™ products distributor.

• Never machine-wash or machine-dry. This degrades the pad material and loosens it from backing layer.

• Never clean pads with solvents or other harsh detergents.

• Never leave pads saturated with water, soap, compound or other liquids. This causes foam and adhesives to deteriorate, shortening pad life.
Keep away from oils, dirty water and other fluids. Do not store where dust and dirt accumulate.

Never rest the buffer on the pad. This may warp the inner plate causing it to spin untrue, severely shortening its life. It may also damage the drive adapter.
Do not stack or rest objects on top of pads.

Wrong

Right​

​

 

[FloridaNative]

Great stuff there, Aaron. Thanks so much for posting it. I know it will help alot of people. :applause:

 

[Kelso]

i know i read it when i got it but its a matter of most people thinking the release button is what releases the pad... just a misconception that i had and you clarified. once i found out you just release with a slight push or pull with even pressure on all sides, made it way easier to understand the system...also kind of made me feel like "well duhhhh" haha

 

[wytstang]

2. Press button
While holding buffer in left hand, grasp pad with right hand and press one finger against the release button in the center of the drive adapter.

3. Push off pad from the back

See this is how I was burning the tips of my finger, the adaptor gets really hot during use so when I was swaping out/flipping pads that's when I was being "branded" by the button. Ouchy....but I'm glad I know I don't have to do that now thanks again Kelso/Edge...

 

[The Edge]

If your adapter is getting so hot that you really can't touch it, something is wrong with your machine, adapter, or something else. Of course it will get warm but what you are describing is burning heat and that should not be happening. Either way, you don't really need to push on it to get the pad off. If you want to talk about it more, feel free to call me.

Aaron Krause (President & CEO)
Dedication To Detail, Inc.
777 Henderson Blvd.
Suites # 1 & 2
Folcroft, PA 19032
---------------------------------------
( Phone: (610) 583-4883
2 Fax: (610) 583-4885
* Email: [email protected]
Website: www.edgepads.com

 

[Kelso]

aaron you said you dont recommend polishing at speed 6, and i forgot to ask why you say that?

 

[The Edge]

sorry for the delay in answering my server has been down most of the day. In regards to speed 6 and the Edge2000 system, I don't recommend that speed for several reasons. Keep in mind these are my opinion and my personal experience with the PC, our pads and other pads and backing plates. First off it is my firm belief that the PC is for minor correction and mostly polishing and waxing a finished surface. Removal of heavy oxidation, scratches and heavy swirling is the job for the rotary or even the Cyclo. If you need speed 6 on the PC in order to get the work done effectively MY PERSONAL OPINION is that you are using the wrong machine. Because it takes so much speed, severe vibration, pressure, and time to do heavy corrections with the PC is causes much to much stress on the machine, your hands, and heats up the adapter and inside of the E2K pads. Normally, I can do what the PC is good for at speeds of 4 and less and if I need more I reach for the rotary and more recently the Cyclo. I have found that with a Cyclo which is one set speed, I can cover an 8 inch pass which saves time instead of a 6 inch pass, the two pads counter balance eachother for a much smoother feel, they are nearly impossible to bog down and stop rotations so they do bring some heat into the picture which is good for heavy corrections, and with the new Edge2000 4 inch pads and system almost all of the vibrations are ELIMINATED so its really like a safe rotary! That being said, and take this please as my experience and personal opinion after years of developing pads and adapters for buffing, that using the PC at speed 6 to actually buff a car is overkill, and overkill on the machine, pads, adapter and operator.

 

[Kelso]

ok thanks for answering, that is why i bought my rotary i just need to get scrap panels to work on before doing real cars. and actually a friend of mine said i could come to his car lot and do any of the cars that are for sale! so im definately going to take that chance... the PC is quite tough on taking out problems but i generally run it at speed 6 for swirls, i dont like waxing or bufing with a PC so thats all i use it for thus far, but rotary will replace it

 

[The Edge]

ok thanks for answering, that is why i bought my rotary i just need to get scrap panels to work on before doing real cars. and actually a friend of mine said i could come to his car lot and do any of the cars that are for sale! so im definately going to take that chance... the PC is quite tough on taking out problems but i generally run it at speed 6 for swirls, i dont like waxing or bufing with a PC so thats all i use it for thus far, but rotary will replace it

Why don't you like it for waxing? I think that is what it works best for. Before I switched over to Cyclo I would put the pc on 3.5 and instead of using a wax applicator pad and elbow grease, I just apply with a soft foam all around the car. By the time I am done, the wax or polish is dry, and I just flip the pad over to a soft dry side and then use the machine again to take if off instead of a MF and elbow grease again. Moving a machine back and forth over the paint is MUCH MUCH easier than rubbing wax on and off in circular motions that use shoulder as well as arm muscles. Try it, you will LOVE IT!

 

[Kelso]

well at work we use pnuematic da's and i like using those to wax and buff but i cant stand using the PC for it....its just not as easy for me as doing it by hand. i can go faster by hand than i can with a PC, im a pretty quick guy in that respect lol

 

[joe.p]

Moving a machine back and forth over the paint is MUCH MUCH easier than rubbing wax on and off in circular motions that use shoulder as well as arm muscles. Try it, you will LOVE IT!

Wax should be applied and removed in back and forth motion in order to reduce swirls :cheers:

Aaron I couldn't resist

 

[MikeyC]

Wax should be applied and removed in back and forth motion in order to reduce swirls :cheers:

A lot of people will agree with your statement Joe. However, it's still a subject that is debated to some degree. Some say straight lines and some say it doesn't matter. For example, ask Mike Phillips from Meguiar's for instance and he'll say it doesn't matter. Mike is undoubtedly one of the most respected people in detailing and he disagrees with you.

I'm not saying anyone is right or wrong. I'm only saying there are two sides to the story.

 

[Matt S.]

Why don't you like it for waxing? I think that is what it works best for. Before I switched over to Cyclo I would put the pc on 3.5 and instead of using a wax applicator pad and elbow grease, I just apply with a soft foam all around the car. By the time I am done, the wax or polish is dry, and I just flip the pad over to a soft dry side and then use the machine again to take if off instead of a MF and elbow grease again. Moving a machine back and forth over the paint is MUCH MUCH easier than rubbing wax on and off in circular motions that use shoulder as well as arm muscles. Try it, you will LOVE IT!

You've got me thinking about trying out my Cyclo polisher again, especially once I get ahold of some Edge 2000 pads that will fit the machine.

 

[joe.p]

A lot of people will agree with your statement Joe. However, it's still a subject that is debated to some degree. Some say straight lines and some say it doesn't matter. For example, ask Mike Phillips from Meguiar's for instance and he'll say it doesn't matter. Mike is undoubtedly one of the most respected people in detailing and he disagrees with you.

I'm not saying anyone is right or wrong. I'm only saying there are two sides to the story.

iirc, Mike also states there is no such thing as a wax for light or darker vehicles as CC is paint without pigment(correct me if pigment is the wrong term)but many vendors market there wax as such.

MikeyC ,in noway am i second guessing you ,as your exp along with Mike Phillips far out ways mine,when you mentioned Mike Phillips the first thing that came to mind was a statemant i read in regards to waxes..

I know a little off topic,but the wax theory is something i have thought about for some time..
Thanks for the input:cheers: