Birds vs Rotary (New guy with a Rotary)

ANeat

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Hello everyone, my first serious attempt at anything resembling "correction" past your basic wash/wax.

Something Ive been wanting to do, and have been reading up here quite a bit.

Anyway, starting small with doing the hood on my 2002 VW Golf TDI. typical pseudo neglected 8 year old daily driver with 150k miles. (Black)
I always thought the paint looked pretty good but the years have done their thing.

At some time Ive gotten several bird droppings on the hood that have etched pretty well and the typical washing/waxing wasnt doing anything.

So after washing and claying my regiment was 105/205 using Meguiars trio of foam pads, purple pad for the 105 and yellow for the 205. I used the black pad to work in the wax (NXT)

My plan was to use the foam pads to reduce the risk of any beginners errors that the agressivenes of a wool pad might cause

Buffer is a Makita Rotary (used with caution):buffing:

The places needing fixed.
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So I misted a little quick detailer on the purple pad, applied some 105 and proceded to have at it.

This next shot was where I think one of the "etchings" were located. This is just after the first pad and the 105 Im the MAN

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So I carried on with the 205 and the wax, and man what a difference

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I know, its just the hood, but hey, following instructions works:props: Now Ill have to do the rest

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Hey Adam, Welcome to Autogeek!

For a first timer I think the results are awesome! While some of your approach seems a bit aggressive, you've demonstrated that varying pads with the same product can achieve outstanding results.

For pad and compound selection Meguiar's M105 is generally used with a course cutting pad like purple, yellow, or orange. These pads are firm and dense enough to allow the product to do it's job effectively and quickly.

Products like Meguiar's M105 and Menzerna Power Gloss are in the area of removing scratches and swirls with a minimum sanding grit of approximately 1500.

Both Lake Country purple and yellow pads

"Use these pad to apply compounds or polishes to remove severe oxidation, swirls, and scratches. It is the most aggressive and should only be used on oxidized and older finishes. Always follow this pad with an orange or white pad and a fine polish to refine the paint until it is smooth. "

Orange pads

"Firm, high density foam for scratch and defect removal. Use this pad with polishes and swirl removers. It’s an all around pad that will work on most light to moderate imperfections."

White pads

"Less dense foam formula for the application of waxes, micro-fine polishes and sealants. This pad has very light cutting power so its perfect for pre-wax cleaners."

Autogeek Buffing Pad Comparison Chart

Keep up the good work and post more photos when you're through! :props:
 
I think you guys are misunderstanding...the OP said he used MEGUIAR'S pads...sounds like the Softbuff 2.0 pads. When he said "purple" he meant the burgundy cutting pad, yellow was the yellow Meguiar's polishing pad, and black was the finishing pad. For that line, I think he used the right pads...and you can't argue with the results (although I don't know how much paint came off ;) ).
 
I think you guys are misunderstanding...the OP said he used MEGUIAR'S pads...sounds like the Softbuff 2.0 pads. When he said "purple" he meant the burgundy cutting pad, yellow was the yellow Meguiar's polishing pad, and black was the finishing pad. For that line, I think he used the right pads...and you can't argue with the results (although I don't know how much paint came off ;) ).

was thinking the same thing.

Great job for a newbee Adam!!
:dblthumb2:
 
All the pads and products can certainly be confusing and you can imagine how a new guy must feel.

You did great for a new guy...

The pads and products of this trade can be confusing but with a little reading and discussion after a while everything starts to fall into place and then it makes more sense.

I remember the first time I was introduced to the Meguiar's Professional Line and the guys showing me this stuff kept talking about "Numbers" like it was a second language and that's because numbers and terms for products in this industry are a lingo of sorts...

:)
 
Thanks again; Im getting more familiar with some of the lingo the more I read.

I was really glad to see the etching get polished out but the clarity that returned kind of suprised me (in a good way)

I have no plans be a professional but with all the info here hopefully I can keep my vehicles a little better looking
 
I think you guys are misunderstanding...the OP said he used MEGUIAR'S pads...sounds like the Softbuff 2.0 pads. When he said "purple" he meant the burgundy cutting pad, yellow was the yellow Meguiar's polishing pad, and black was the finishing pad. For that line, I think he used the right pads...and you can't argue with the results (although I don't know how much paint came off ;) ).

You guys are spot on, I stand corrected! Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain! :laughing:

Still, a fabulous job with stellar results! :props:
 
For a first time correction amazing results!!
I have the soft buff 2.0 pads and a Dewalt Rotary that I plan on using to correct the swirls on my silver Avalon, hope it turns out half as good as your vehicle.
 
I have the soft buff 2.0 pads and a Dewalt Rotary that I plan on using to correct the swirls on my silver Avalon, hope it turns out half as good as your vehicle.

Im sure it will. I just tried to listen to the tips Ive read here. I really didnt apply any pressure, just the weight of the buffer and let the pad/compound do their thing.

I started out with the RPM slow and made one pass over the area I was working. (to kind of spread the compound out a little) Then ramped the speed up to close to 1500 and made a couple more passes.

The majority of mine cleaned up in one cycle of the 105/burgandy pad. I did have one of the etched areas I had to go over twice to get it to go away.

After that I repeated the same with the 205 and the yellow pad, then cleaned everything and waxed
 
Very cool....How did you avoid holograms? You must have had good technique. I use a Rotary to remove scratches and once on an entire vehicle but had to use a PC to remove the Holo's. Do the Megs 2.0 pads work that well? Or are you that good?
Come on man....the truth now...:xyxthumbs:
 
Looks really good! Great job and good handling the rotary :xyxthumbs: I think you finished down just fine, and the turnaround is massive!
:dblthumb2:
 
you give me hope for my cobra!!!! i just got it running this past weekend and it has been sitting outside for more than a year with no engine.

i have a cheap rotary and i have been so confused of where to start with what pads to use and such. up until i read this post the only thing i know i needed was some clay, megs 105/205, and some NXT 2.0. now that i see this, i will be picking up the same pads you used and going to town come spring time (chicago winters dont allow for much detail work cause of the cold).
 
Very cool....How did you avoid holograms? You must have had good technique. I use a Rotary to remove scratches and once on an entire vehicle but had to use a PC to remove the Holo's. Do the Megs 2.0 pads work that well? Or are you that good?
Come on man....the truth now...:xyxthumbs:

Thanks everyone; In my very limited experience the only time I get anything like holograms is with a wool pad and an aggressive compound.
Even then its more like just random fine scratches and nothing like some of the holograms Ive seen on here.

With the correct foam pad and going slow I get a great finish. I dont see any reason why a person cannot.

I tried it a few days earlier on my wifes trunk (dont tell LOL) made a few passes, wiped it down and it was better than it had ever been
 
Cool :props: It's awesome meeting people close. I'm planning on going to UC for college next year :xyxthumbs:
 
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