Black car detailing help...

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Bahnzii

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Sorry for the long post...
I have a new Black '06 Vette that was "detailed" at the dealership, ha!!
I have some very light swirling and a few scratches. None of which you can feel. I tried some meguiars scratchx by hand but it did little if nothing. So now I want to finally try a PC 7424 (have always wanted to...).
I was going to order a combination of products and I wanted to some experienced/expert advice from the community:
1.
Dual bucket wash with Dawn to clean paint
Pinnacle Ultra Clay and lubricant
Dual bucket wash with Meguiars or Pinnacle (is this step necessary?)

2.
For swirl removal:
Pinnacle XMT #2 using Lake Cntry White or Orange Pad
or
Poorboys SR1 with Lake Cntry White or Orange pad
(I don't think I will need to go to SR2)

3. For Polish:
Pinnacle XMT #1 using White pad
(is there something in PoorBoys line that is comparable?)

4. 1st Sealant:
Klasse AIO using White pad

5. 2nd Sealant:
Klasse High Gloss using White pad or Gray Pad??
or PoorBoys EX-P

6. Wax:
Pinnacle Series 2 Signature paste wax
or
PoorBoys Nattys paste (blue)

7: a little more pop!!
Pinnacle Crystal Mist

What should I use for the windows and tires?
I don't like shiny tires, just a clean, natural finish.

Let me know your thoughts :)
 
1. Save the dawn for the dishes.
http://www.autogeek.net/pbss32.html

Clay while washing to save time.

2. Either will work, try both pads to see what works best.

3. SSR 1 is good enough as a final polish.

4. AIO is a polish/cleaner. Works great.

5. Better known as Sealant Glaze. Use finishing pad. Let it cure 24 hours.
EX-P is good too. Personal preference.

6. Natty's blue or Max Wax. Max is on sale.
http://www.autogeek.net/carnauba-car-wax.html

7. Good choice.

Tires
http://www.autogeek.net/entirprotgel.html

Windows
http://www.autogeek.net/glass-cleaner.html
 
Thanks Abrcrombe...

Can I replace step #5 with XMT carnauba finishing glaze?

The pinnacle xmt PC kit is looks pretty good right now :)
 
167Vette_008.jpg


1. Wash -- Pinnacle Wash, Poorboys Suds
2. Clay -- Pinnacle Poly Clay, Wolfgang Clay
3. Polish -- Poorboys 2.5 SSR, Menzerna P085
4. J-ewel -- Poorboys 1.0 SSR. Menzerna FP
5. Seal -- UPP, Poorboys EX-P, Wolfgang
6. Wax -- Souveran Paste
 
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Ah! (she sighs wistfully) I never get tired of that picture! Killr one of these days I think I will steal your car and go cruising! lol
 
Now that is the look I am going for :awesome:
Thanks killrwheels!!

Gotta love black C6's :D
 
killrwheels@autogeek said:
167Vette_008.jpg


1. Wash -- Pinnacle Wash, Poorboys Suds
2. Clay -- Pinnacle Poly Clay, Wolfgang Clay
3. Polish -- Poorboys 2.5 SSR, Menzerna P085
4. J-ewel -- Poorboys 1.0 SSR. Menzerna FP
5. Seal -- UPP, Poorboys EX-P, Wolfgang
6. Wax -- Souveran Paste
Click to expand...

Are you the damn kid who has been laying rubber in our Association parking lot next to our tennis courts?
 
LOL!! I just saw those two tire marks just now! LOL I've always been to busy looking at the car to notice anything else in the pic! Killr!!!! LOL
 
Bahnzii said:
Sorry for the long post...
I have a new Black '06 Vette that was "detailed" at the dealership, ha!!
I have some very light swirling and a few scratches. None of which you can feel. I tried some meguiars scratchx by hand but it did little if nothing. So now I want to finally try a PC 7424 (have always wanted to...).
I was going to order a combination of products and I wanted to some experienced/expert advice from the community:
1.
Dual bucket wash with Dawn to clean paint
Pinnacle Ultra Clay and lubricant
Dual bucket wash with Meguiars or Pinnacle (is this step necessary?)

2.
For swirl removal:
Pinnacle XMT #2 using Lake Cntry White or Orange Pad
or
Poorboys SR1 with Lake Cntry White or Orange pad
(I don't think I will need to go to SR2)

3. For Polish:
Pinnacle XMT #1 using White pad
(is there something in PoorBoys line that is comparable?)

4. 1st Sealant:
Klasse AIO using White pad

5. 2nd Sealant:
Klasse High Gloss using White pad or Gray Pad??
or PoorBoys EX-P

6. Wax:
Pinnacle Series 2 Signature paste wax
or
PoorBoys Nattys paste (blue)

7: a little more pop!!
Pinnacle Crystal Mist

What should I use for the windows and tires?
I don't like shiny tires, just a clean, natural finish.

Let me know your thoughts :)
Click to expand...

I am going against everyone else here with this advice:

I have a 2006 Black Lexus SC430. Not an inexpensive automobile. IMO, an expensive black automobile is not a car to learn on (at least not if it is your own!!!). There is a learning curve to this stuff. There are substantial technique issues. What you may not be aware of if you have never "gotten into" this before, is that EVERY time you touch a car's finish you do damage. EVERY time. Killr did not turn out a finish like you see in the picture by simply plunking down the cash for a PC and buying a "product". Speed, product, pad, working time, pressure, size of the area to be worked, armspeed, humidity and probably a bunch of other things go in to what results you get, and you do not want to end up worse than you started off.

But if you insist, I would humbly suggest that you skip the Poorboys 2.5 step and see what happens with the Poorboys 1, then decide whether all or part of the car needs a more aggressive approach. Remember, these polishes and pads are like sandpaper grits. If your finish is nearly perfect, you dont jump in with a belt sander and an 80 grit.

I would also tape off a section of the car and not touch it at all, so that you have a baseline to compare to. You may think you have done a super job only to discover that there is a slight dullness when compared to the original finish, even if there wa some swirling as delivered.
 
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killrwheels@autogeek said:
167Vette_008.jpg


1. Wash -- Pinnacle Wash, Poorboys Suds
2. Clay -- Pinnacle Poly Clay, Wolfgang Clay
3. Polish -- Poorboys 2.5 SSR, Menzerna P085
4. J-ewel -- Poorboys 1.0 SSR. Menzerna FP
5. Seal -- UPP, Poorboys EX-P, Wolfgang
6. Wax -- Souveran Paste
Click to expand...

That's a KillrVette! it's killing us with it's depth and shine!:D
Every time I look at it, I think, why didn't I get a black car?
 
BlackCoupe, I hear you and respect your comments...
I was not going to jump in with SSR2.5 first.
I have 2 others cars to "play" with before I tackle my Vette.

I do know the golden rule, start least aggressive, check results and then determine next step...
 
Also, I would work part of a panel. Wait until the next day when you can see it in the sunlight at high noon.
 
BlackCoupe said:
Are you the damn kid who has been laying rubber in our Association parking lot next to our tennis courts?
Click to expand...

And there is another set of tracks behind those! Teenagers!!
 
Every time I look at it, I think, why didn't I get a black car?

Cuz if you did, 6 out of the 7 days you looked at it, you would think "Why did I get a black car?"

BlackCoupe--Proud owner of two black vehicles, and signed up for therapy.
 
seriously, wasnt me on the burnouts. Besides the run-flats are rather quiet and dont leave any real tracks .... or so I have been told. ;)

what you dont see in the pics, is the bad orange peel from a GM product. Other than wet-sanding it wont get better. And after owning more than 10 black cars, I swore them off and bought a silver Vette, only to come back with the C6. They look great when clean and detailed, unfortunately they look like crud with anything less than a perfect finish. They certainly amplify any detraction in the finish.

As for Blackcoupes comments, I am going to disagree slightly. The GM clearcoat is very hard and thus not easily breached with finishing polishes (SSR 1.0) and finishing pads (grey/blue). I would start with a moderate polish and lighter polishing pad as possible. I have found that using a white pad and SSR 2.5 does well on nice finishes and doesnt do alot of damage or swirl removal. I do highly suggest j-eweling any finish after polishing as it always seems to amp the surface.
 
killrwheels@autogeek said:
seriously, wasnt me on the burnouts. Besides the run-flats are rather quiet and dont leave any real tracks .... or so I have been told. ;)

what you dont see in the pics, is the bad orange peel from a GM product. Other than wet-sanding it wont get better. And after owning more than 10 black cars, I swore them off and bought a silver Vette, only to come back with the C6. They look great when clean and detailed, unfortunately they look like crud with anything less than a perfect finish. They certainly amplify any detraction in the finish.

As for Blackcoupes comments, I am going to disagree slightly. The GM clearcoat is very hard and thus not easily breached with finishing polishes (SSR 1.0) and finishing pads (grey/blue). I would start with a moderate polish and lighter polishing pad as possible. I have found that using a white pad and SSR 2.5 does well on nice finishes and doesnt do alot of damage or swirl removal. I do highly suggest j-eweling any finish after polishing as it always seems to amp the surface.
Click to expand...

Disillusioned those burnouts are not yours :(

Bummed about the orange peel. What we didn't know wasn't hurting us.

I always defer to you. But your recipe did not specify a pad. I sort of equate 2.5 with Megs 83, and 1.0 with Meg's 80. It was just sort of my concern that someone who hadn't used a PC before could do a little damage on black with 2.5 and the Orange Lake Country pad he was talking about.

But it looks like he is going to practice on his unsuspecting family members cars first, so YOU GO BOY!

HIJACK WARNING:
BTW--On your advice I had some Menzerna's Final Polish II shipped. I thought I might attack half of a panel (taping off to compare) to see if I can get that ju-ling. I was going to use the White Edge 2000 Pad on 6.

Something else I am curious about. On smaller cars (or any car) do you bother applying/removing wax with the PC, or do it by hand?
 
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BlackCoupe said:
HIJACK WARNING:
BTW--On your advice I had some Menzerna's Final Polish II shipped. I thought I might attack half of a panel (taping off to compare) to see if I can get that ju-ling. I was going to use the White Edge 2000 Pad on 6.

Something else I am curious about. On smaller cars (or any car) do you bother applying/removing wax with the PC, or do it by hand?
Click to expand...


I am not going to lie, Menzerna makes the best car polishes hands down. I love them for ease of use, and how quickly even the harsher polishes break down into a final polish. I have only 1/2 a bottle of 085 left, and cannot fathom the loss. I truly wish AG would carry them ... but understand they are not looking for additional vendors currently. (A very bad mistake on their part considering our inventory, product mix, and great customer service ratings)

As for waxing/sealing, I have never used a PC and dont see it being worth it. Uses to much product and doesnt help the finish. I have found that hard to remove areas from other products are best removed with a little Qd'er and a micro versus using the PC.
 
Why are they not adding any vendors? Also, in another post, you said SS3 would not break down well with a PC. How about Menzerna's Power Gloss? I really don't want to risk using a rotary. Too afraid.
 
killrwheels@autogeek said:
As for waxing/sealing, I have never used a PC and dont see it being worth it. Uses to much product and doesnt help the finish. I have found that hard to remove areas from other products are best removed with a little Qd'er and a micro versus using the PC.
Click to expand...

Good. This makes me feel smart! Once you have your finish all gemmed up (or j-eweled) how you want it, why run a spinning-vibrating machine all over it?
 
LOL. You can think of it that way if you want. The PC is designed to be as safe as possible on the paint, so if you are using it correctly, you shouldn't mess it up. I see it as just a more intimate process and getting to know the car. I feel the more you get to know it, the more you love it (or hate it if it has soo many problems). For times sake, PC is faster though IMO.
 
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