Black paint and water spots

red98snake

New member
Joined
Sep 11, 2010
Messages
11
Reaction score
0
I just bought a 2011 Nissan Xterra Pro4x. I got in the super black color. I've only had for about a week. The dealer delivered it to my house undetailed. It was also about 10:30 at night. It has a bunch of waterspots all over it. I was wondering what would be the best way to remove them. Any ideas would be great. Thank you.
 
wash well, use a decontamination kit, clay, polish, and protect.
 
I did a clay and a polish today. That got rid of most of them, but I can still see them at certain angles. I did a spray wax when I was done. It helped but I'm gonna have to keep trying.
 
A paint cleaner will probably get rid of the water spots, but Killrwheels suggestion would be a better solution.
 
I did a clay and a polish today. That got rid of most of them, but I can still see them at certain angles. I did a spray wax when I was done. It helped but I'm gonna have to keep trying.
What did you polish with and was it done by hand?
 
I may be missing something here, but if I took delivery of a new car and it needed anything more then a wash, clay and mild polish, I'd have the dealer pay to have it fixed by a professional, not their shop.
 
I may be missing something here, but if I took delivery of a new car and it needed anything more then a wash, clay and mild polish, I'd have the dealer pay to have it fixed by a professional, not their shop.
A little late now. He took delivery a week ago and at night. Sounds like some water spotting and nothing more.
 
I got it from a dealer that is about 2 hours away. I was the closest one. If it had been during the day I would have them do all of the work. The salesman did say that he would have it detailed when I take in for the first oil change. Seeing as to how I couldn't get it off by myself. I washed it with McQuiars wash. I then used McQuiars clay bar system. Then I used scratch doctor to try and get them out. It was about all that I had on hand. It got most of them out. I'm taking in for about another 2-3 weeks. I'll see what I can do until then.
 
I got it from a dealer that is about 2 hours away. I was the closest one. If it had been during the day I would have them do all of the work. The salesman did say that he would have it detailed when I take in for the first oil change. Seeing as to how I couldn't get it off by myself. I washed it with McQuiars wash. I then used McQuiars clay bar system. Then I used scratch doctor to try and get them out. It was about all that I had on hand. It got most of them out. I'm taking in for about another 2-3 weeks. I'll see what I can do until then.

If you like your car, keep the dealers "detailer" away from it.
 
i second yakkys comment, this is what the dealerships detailer will do(i worked at a dealership) they will use a wool pad with a heavy compound which will leave behind holograms,then they will apply a glaze to hide the holograms which will make it look great for a week then your back to square one looking for a detailer to remove holograms....so i would just tell them i don't want you to touch my car and have a competent detailer touch it and send them the bill..I'm sure you can find a great detailer in your area on these forums. heck why not just buy a dual action polisher from autogeek, buy the meguiars da microfiber system(i have no experience with this but seen amazing results) and polish out your own car, will save your clear coat by using the least aggressive method unlike the dealership, and will be beautiful. the d/a system seems like a awesome method for a beginner at polishing paint. good luck!
 
Wow. I think I'm going to try and have them have detailed by a professional. If they deny it. Then I'll probably ##### about it and then do it myself. Thanks for the info.
 
Really!! What happened to yours?

Nothing, I keep mine away, however you might have some fun if you search for DISO, otherwise know as the Dealer Installed Swirl Option. Most dealers don't pay their detailers to perform perfection. They pay them to get cars out FAST. Usually that means using methods that are overly aggressive and then, if you are lucky, covering them with a glaze. As a few others have mentioned, after a wash or two, your car will look worse than it did with just the water spots.

A true pro will always start off with the least aggressive method in order to preserve as much of your original paint as possible.

When looking for a pro. ask to see if they have a paint gauge. Not having one certainly doesn't mean they are a hack, but having one is usually a sign of being a bit more serious about their work. Then ask them about their plan of action. If the first word you hear is compound or wool.. head for the hills!
 
From my article list...

Water Spots

3 - Types of Water Spots - Type I, Type II and Type III

How To Remove Sprinkler Water Spots

How to remove water spots by hand

Tips for removing Type I Water Spots



Here's just a portion from this article, L00K at the imprint spots AFTER I wiped the paint clean, is this kind of what your water spots look like?



How To Remove Sprinkler Water Spots


Just by chance, there's a rental car in the parking lot which also has water spots all over the finish.

SprinklerSpotsS001.jpg


SprinklerSpotsS002.jpg



These water spots look like they're established water spots, that every time it rains, or a sprinkler goes off, the water pools in the same place giving any corrosive substances repeated opportunity to etch into the paint.
SprinklerSpotsS003.jpg



SprinklerSpotsS004.jpg




Visually, I can tell the paint is likely etched in this instance but I won't know till I get the surface clean. The first step is to wash or wipe the finish, in this instance I'm going to repeat wiping process I used on the Mercedes-Benz with a spray detailer.

SprinklerSpotsS006.jpg


SprinklerSpotsS007.jpg


SprinklerSpotsS008.jpg



After wiping the paint clean, there are water spot imprints remaining in the paint.

WaterSpotImprints01.jpg



WaterSpotImprints02.jpg




WaterSpotImprints03.jpg





To remove these and use the least aggressive product to get the job done I'm going to use a light paint cleaner with a microfiber applicator pad to gentle clean the paint.

SprinklerSpotsS009.jpg


SprinklerSpotsS010.jpg


SprinklerSpotsS011.jpg




If you want to take some of the work out of the cleaning step as an option you can use a machine polisher to apply and work the paint cleaner, this can save a lot of elbow grease and speed up the process especially if the water spots are over the entire car.

SprinklerSpotsS012.jpg




If you opt to machine apply the paint cleaner and you're starting with a clean, dry pad, be sure to prime the pad by spreading the paint cleaner over the entire face of the pad, by doing this 100% of the face of the pad will be working for you from the very first moment you turn the polisher on and begin buffing.

SprinklerSpotsS013.jpg


SprinklerSpotsS014.jpg




Remove the paint cleaner residue by wiping gently using a fresh, clean microfiber towel and then apply a coat of wax or paint sealant as the paint cleaner will effectively remove everything off the surface including any previously applied wax or paint sealant.

SprinklerSpotsS015.jpg



In keeping with the philosophy of using the least aggressive product to get the job done, if washing or wiping the paint doesn't remove the water spots the next step would be using a light paint cleaner. If the light paint cleaner didn't work you could then test a light finishing polish and if that wasn't working fast enough and/or effectively enough then you could try a more aggressive product. The goal being to remove the water spots using the least aggressive product and by doing so leaving the most amount of paint on the body panels to last over the service life of the car.

SprinklerSpotsS016.jpg



Water Spots and Sprinkler Water Spots Successfully Removed
SprinklerSpotsS017.jpg




:)
 
Nice posts Mike. If that last one doesn't scare him, nothing will!
 
Back
Top