Black Paint Correction tips

[TrolleyVW]

We all know that working with black paint, whether soft or hard CC, is the most patience testing, scrutinizing, pain staking process. I've done many black cars from full correction to an AIO.

I've noticed that, say I have a gloss non metallic black Toyota Rav 4, if I use a rather light combo such as a LC White CCS pad with M205 or Wolfgang Finishing Glaze, if I use any more pressure than maybe 2-3 lbs of pressure more than the machine, it leaves hazing and tick marks in the wake of my passes.

If I let up the pressure, merely guiding the machine with the weight of my hand along with faster arm movements (2inches per second or so) I really don't see those marks or the hazing.

Is this common practice for those working on Porsche, Toyota, Lexus or any other black paint that is very prone to heavy pressure induced defects?

Are there any other "definitive" tips on how to work with black paint as a whole?

 

[zmcgovern45]

I wouldn't say there is a set list of tips that will work on every black vehicle... experience, knowledge, patience, and ability to adapt to various challenges are all important traits when dealing with 'finicky' paint (of any color).

Generally, more pressure equals more cut, therefore when you are finishing it can be (note: can be, not always the case!) beneficial to make your last pass or two with very little or no pressure at all. I find this to be more true with SMAT polishes, as some DAT products sometimes need a bit of pressure to break down properly and if you use too soft of a pad and/or too little pressure the product may leave some marring which sounds backwards... you may not consider that a softer pad or less pressure may be creating the marring, but it can happen (carpro reflect comes to mind here). In these instances, I have found it to be best to start with higher machine speed with moderate pressure, then finish with a couple of passes at lower machine speed and lower pressure once the product has broken down.

I know this is starting to sound like a very generic answer, but simply doing your due diligence with proper test spots and then being able to properly analyze the results of your test spots to make the necessary changes to your process & technique is key.

 

[HD.Detailing]

my super soft nissan magnetic black can be tricky.
white pad, m205, rupes21 2 passes no pressure(except machine weight) yields excellent results, same process I recently did on a black GTR with soft paint too (despite Nissans BS sticker stating hard clear cost, haha)

I'm about to do a 2014 VW GTI Black that the dealer hacked up. Test spot with 205 and orange pad yielded excellent results removed >95% defects with 2 slow passes and 2 quicker final passes.

My advice is to then coat black paint when done correcting.

As Zach said, test spot and patience..

 

[TrolleyVW]

Test spots are definitely the most important step in correction. I just did 2 doors of a 2014 black Toyota Camry and did 4 section passes at 6 with adequate pressure and 2 final passes at speed 5 with lighter pressure with an Orange CCS flat/M205. Turned out nearly perfect.