Bleach and WD 40 Better then compound and Wax !?

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mactube

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Hi,
I'm totally new here and an yesterday was the first time I ever shined a car.
Some of you probably think I'm nuts, but I had a lot of tree sap on the car in form of alot of tiny little braun spots that have properly been there for a long time.
After I washed the car ( foam and high pressure) , I buffered the car with Turtle Polish Comound & and Scratch remover and a heavy vecore high speed sander and polisher with a brand new buffer cloth on it...To start off and get some of the scratches out
which didn't work ( probably because of the lack of experience ) . But non of the sap cam off at all. Then I tried :I
- Goo Gone Automotive Formula
- Paint thinner
- Rubbing alcohol
and finally Clorox bleach ( all of this only in some areas to test)
till I noticed that it actually takes the pressure of the fingernail to scratch it of, since this will take my years for the hood and the trunk only .. I continued to rubb most of it of with bleach.

Another big mistake that probably only a rookie can do is .. I left some of the Turtle Polish on on side of the hood of like 1 hour and could even buffer it off so I I was only able to remove it with
DW 40 ( to not use Bleach again ) which was the only thing that worked on my Girlfriends old Silver Honda which has this south california Sun and Saltwater damage on hood, roof and trunk ( with no chance of restoring the paint but to take the ashy dryness off with DW 40 .

You all probably think no wonder this guy had no success he did everything wrong he could, but like I said the sap didn't come off at all otherwise.
On the Sides of my silver Chrysler Sebring I ousted the turtle comound polish and afterwords Megular's Cleaner Wax ( both some of the least expensive products but still name brands I have seen before ) .. I used both products with this heavy brand new buffer, but the paind did not become very shiny or glossy .

Now my only hope is a good detailer to get my car nice and shiny .
Can somebody recommend a good Detailer, that will gives the car this glossy , wet look ?
 
I wouldn't use bleach at all. To the sap off I would try some tar remover and some clay. You should be able to pick that up locally

Sent from my DROID Pro using Tapatalk
 
i suggest you stop what your doing immedietly and read alot more, it might help if you post pictures, but i would have a detailer spend alot of time on it to get it looking near perfect then read alot here and maintain it perfectly. might help to state a location of where you are so detailers here would know what area you are in. if your just learning how to detail id just break down get it done professionally then read alot more. good luck
 
why would you want this to be deleted, it has a question mark. hes not doing anything against the rules here so why would it get locked or deleted, that makes no sense. im sure no new member having issues pertaining to this current problem is going to follow the same steps the OP did as the OP said they did not work. so im just wondering why you would request a thread made by someone who needs help with a problem alot have experience with be closed?. anyways back on topic. to mactube is the sap still soft or is it rock hard? if its still soft your in luck as its not too hard to remove then, if its still soft try a old credit card to remove the bulk of the sap. then you need something that can remove tar or glues, stoners tarminator works AWESOME! for glues,tars, and sap. it even works on the rock hard sap, takes longer but does work. so lets start at square one. remove bulk of sap using a plastic card. then spray some tarminator or goo gone(it works but not nearly as fast) and let it soak for about 2-5 minutes, what i like to do is dampen a towel with the tarminator or goo gone and wet the sap and let the damp towel sit on the are for 2-5 minutes and then try to remove it again. as far as wanting to get the car looking great, you need an assortment of polishing pads(lake country orange,white,black) and some compounds/polishes but im guessing you have a rotary which is not the best in the hands of a beginner. you also need to learn the process of removing defects and bringing a gloss to your car, there are plenty of threads talking about this. as far as product choice goes most turtle wax stuff does not work, even the compounds dont work good at all to remove defects. of course you learned that first hand that more expensive products are worth the ease of use!. best OTC products for you would be meguiars ultimate compound and ultimate polish those 2 work great to remove defects. however you can still eat through the clearcoat and leave buffer trails ect. so as i said before get a good detailer to do the car, read and learn how to maintain the perfect finish a good detailer left(please for the sake of your paint dont use a fly by night detailer i would find someone on AG to do it) now the honda you said your relative had im guessing it might have either single stage paint(doubt it for being silver) or the clearcoat is failing. spraying wd40 on the paint is doing more harm then good if it is failing clearcoat all it is making it look better but not solving the original problem. to sum up what the wd40 is doing to the honda is comparable of spraying water on a any surface that is not shiny, the water is what has the shine not the surface under it(if that makes any sense at all). however if the honda is single stage(i hope for your relatives sake it is) then that is a pretty easy fix, sure can take alot of time or a bit of money for a detailer to do it but will look just as good as a new paint job. as i said before we really need pictures to be able to help you more. again good luck!
 
laquer thiinner ona terry towel will work every time, but dont rub it, blot it lightly until its gone.
 
There is no reason to lock or delete it - I seen a lot stranger stuff in the car business....but it does require the original poster to STOP and start reading everything here, watch all of Mike's videos and get smart before proceeding. Or turn this over to a professional detailer that I hope PM's him.

You should go no further here as you're hip shooting and that can cause damage that will cost a lot to repair.
 
I apologies for not reading the thread through. I read the title and ASSUMED OP meant it was better! Apologies to the OP. But yes, i agree with doing a lot of reading/research before using unfamiliar products on the cars paint. EVERY TIME i think something might work, i tend to look it up on here and Google before testing it out as i have an Acura, well known for soft paint and failing clear coats. Last thing i want to do is to deteriorate the paint/clear.

Again, sorry to the OP for not reading the entire post before opening my mouth (replying)!
 
Is there a Full Moon out tonight or what?!?!?


popcorn2.gif
 
I'm probably stepping on somebody's and maybe even on the owner off this site toes...( since there are alot of professioal car products sold on here) when I opened this threat and I almost don't dear to say that I had the best experience to clean my chrome rims with CLR Bath and Kitchen Cleaner . I just tried it because it worked perfect with my chrome shower knobs so I just tried it..
and the detailer ( Pro Power Mist & Wipe Detailer from the 99 cent store works as good ( bad ) as the name brand ICE Synthetic Spry Detailer for 9,99 $ that Autozone recommended to me today on my day 2 of my car detail experience!

Some of you might thing I'm just cheap, but I have spent about 50 $ on Professional car products and I have just the same or better results with regular house hold products I had a home.

I used DW 40 for all plastic , rubber and vinyl and that worked perfect for me too ..

This doesn't have to be the case with everything...
I tried to get the rest of the window tint off of the rear window and tried everything I had at home. First.. Paint Thinner, Nail Polish Remover, Rubbing Alcohol, Goo Gone ( which is supposed to be for removing stickers as well and works too ) but I couldn't get it of with nothing else but Black Magic Tint Off!

Since I followed the first tip I got here on this forum to educate myself, I have found out, that the first big mistake I made, was to let the compound dry instead of buffering with the " fresh " compound .

@opie_7afe the sap ( if it is even sap ) it's tiny little brown spots
all over the car.. it's rock hard! I got alot of it off but still not everything so I will definaltly try the stoners tarminator since there is some tar that I haven't gotten off yet. Or Does the Goo Gone work like stoners tarminator if so I wont by it becaus I already have Goo Gone but it didn't work for the sap!

@opie_7afe since you're saying that Turtle Products might not work.. I noticed that the ICE Detailer I bought today is by Turtle as well , Can you recomment another one that brings the rich glossy - wet look ?
I will def. buy the meguiars ultimate compound and ultimate polish
some time .. since this guy next to me a the car wash vacuum cleaner next to me told me he uses
ultimate polish quick wax.. and his car looked brand new.. but hes paint was fairly new too..

Don't worry about the Honda... the paint is hopless and we just wanted to clean the car to put it on craigslist..

Overall the Chryler is clean now but still without gloss...

Here are some pictures but unfortunately you can't see the condition of the paint, but I will take some pictures soon.

http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj558/mactube/DSC05705.jpg

http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj558/mactube/DSC05706.jpg
http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj558/mactube/DSC05708.jpg
http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj558/mactube/DSC05709.jpg
 
@bl3ujay07 no prob. I tend to choose controversial titles to hope more people will ready it...
 
If Turtle Wax is your idea of what a high-end product is, you've got a lot of reading up to do on this forum...
 
mactube said:
I'm probably stepping on somebody's and maybe even on the owner off this site toes...( since there are alot of professioal car products sold on here) when I opened this threat and I almost don't dear to say that I had the best experience to clean my chrome rims with CLR Bath and Kitchen Cleaner . I just tried it because it worked perfect with my chrome shower knobs so I just tried it..
and the detailer ( Pro Power Mist & Wipe Detailer from the 99 cent store works as good ( bad ) as the name brand ICE Synthetic Spry Detailer for 9,99 $ that Autozone recommended to me today on my day 2 of my car detail experience!

Some of you might thing I'm just cheap, but I have spent about 50 $ on Professional car products and I have just the same or better results with regular house hold products I had a home.

I used DW 40 for all plastic , rubber and vinyl and that worked perfect for me too ..

This doesn't have to be the case with everything...
I tried to get the rest of the window tint off of the rear window and tried everything I had at home. First.. Paint Thinner, Nail Polish Remover, Rubbing Alcohol, Goo Gone ( which is supposed to be for removing stickers as well and works too ) but I couldn't get it of with nothing else but Black Magic Tint Off!

Since I followed the first tip I got here on this forum to educate myself, I have found out, that the first big mistake I made, was to let the compound dry instead of buffering with the " fresh " compound .

@opie_7afe the sap ( if it is even sap ) it's tiny little brown spots
all over the car.. it's rock hard! I got alot of it off but still not everything so I will definaltly try the stoners tarminator since there is some tar that I haven't gotten off yet. Or Does the Goo Gone work like stoners tarminator if so I wont by it becaus I already have Goo Gone but it didn't work for the sap!

@opie_7afe since you're saying that Turtle Products might not work.. I noticed that the ICE Detailer I bought today is by Turtle as well , Can you recomment another one that brings the rich glossy - wet look ?
I will def. buy the meguiars ultimate compound and ultimate polish
some time .. since this guy next to me a the car wash vacuum cleaner next to me told me he uses
ultimate polish quick wax.. and his car looked brand new.. but hes paint was fairly new too..

Don't worry about the Honda... the paint is hopless and we just wanted to clean the car to put it on craigslist..

Overall the Chryler is clean now but still without gloss...

Here are some pictures but unfortunately you can't see the condition of the paint, but I will take some pictures soon.

http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj558/mactube/DSC05705.jpg

http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj558/mactube/DSC05706.jpg
http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj558/mactube/DSC05708.jpg
http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj558/mactube/DSC05709.jpg
Click to expand...

Just make a quick run to walmart and get a meguires restoration kit for $20 (hopefully im not breaking any forum rules). Comes with clay bar, quick detailer, soap/shampoo, microfiber, applicator, and a small bottle of wax. Its a small kit that works pretty good by hand! Tried it on a cousin's 06 rsx and he was pretty pleased with it. WAY better than a lot of other turtle wax i used to buy and thought was good.
 
Hmmmm, who has made a second account to pull our legs here about bleaching their car? :laughing: J/K
 
@bl3ujay07 no prob. I tend to use controversial topics when I'm in forums..
hoping it will interest more people to click the threat and actually join the conversation..
 
@CEE DOG can you explane please?
Did somebody else use bleach ? I actually used clorox with pleach, just for the fact that it's very strong and helped to kind of etch the touch sap.

But Did just clorox bleach on an 15 year old Fort before that looked like it has never seen a carwash before and I'm 100% sure nothing else would have freshened up the white and get the dirt that had been sitting in the little scratches for years.
 
A long time ago an old detailer showed me a trick for removing dried lumpy sap.... Take an ice cube and gently rub over the sap deposit, it will slowly crystalize and break apart, you may need more than one cube.
 
I actually got all the sap off today following @opie_7afe advice ..
I soaked almost the complete car in goo gone and then scratched the little dark spots off with an old plastic card.... great advice!! This process seamed to remove a lot of other dirt too even though I washed the car before and polished / buffered the car 1 week ago...
Afterwards I tried my luck again to shine the car ( since all this scratching was definably not good for the paint but the only way to get the sap / Spots off) with compound and later wax. .. I followed the other advice as well to first educate myself about shining a car .. so after reading here a lot and watching youtube video, I have been pretty successful ..
I will post some pictures here soon since it started to get dark after this project .
The best result to get the rest of the wax off after shining, I definably achieved with a mircofiber cloth.
 
there you go, be noted that you most likely did some light surface marring to the finish but its to be expected with some rough stuff. but yeah ill put it to you like this (even though you used goo gone) goo gone holds nothing on tarminator(used both) this one type of adhesive i was trying to remove on some plastic(nothing car related) heat didnt work,nail polish remover with acetone did not work, razor didnt work, goo gone didnt work, tarminator worked within minutes......stuff is amazing!. as far as the card scraping more dirt that most likely was above surface bonded contaminants which a claybar removes even safer then a card, clay would have been my first choice vs solvents however :)

Glad we could educate you and as long as you keep learning and progressing foward its good. trust me most of us started out at one time or another using the normal cheap otc stuff. but then you try more expensive stuff and finish that first machine polish perfect you just grin ear to ear :) then the obsession/addiction begins :P


just a tip, if you ever apply the wrong wax, or even the right wax too thick(for example, collinite 476S) and its a pain to remove mist surface with some good quick detailer and will make it easier to remove :)
 
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