Boat Restoration

hbrett29

hbrett29

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Okay guys, nothing fancy here but I'm trying to restoring two early 80's laser sailboats. I'm planning out my restoration for the spring. I'm wondering if anyone has experience with this oxidized of a boat. I'm hoping to get away without wet sanding, using a heavy marine compound with a rotary and wool cutting pad. Then depending on the results either a medium grade followed my an ultra fine, or simple an ultra fine if that will remove the compounding marks.

Do you think this can be restored without wet sanding or repainting? They are both in about the same condition.
 
From the pictures the gel coats seem to be in decent shape.I know you said you would like to get away without sanding but.... Alot of people simply polish a boat out only to be back where they started from in a few months. The scotchbrite sanding pads might be a better choice for you. This will remove the oxidation ratner then move it around. Gel coats are very forgiving compared to vehicles.Watch a couple You tube videos on subject and go to town.You will use alot of product so Find a bulk gallon of auto/boat compound that has a textue like rocks in a bottle and paint it on if you decide not to sand.I hope that was helpful.
 
If I have to sand to get good results then that's what I'm going to have to do. I would rather do it right the first time.

If I was to go with traditional sanding what grit sequence would you suggest?
 
Have you tried a test spot? You might not need to sand it out. There are oxidation cleaners made for marine use. Most are acidic, but had just see it on ship shape TV. I'll see if I can find it.


Oxalic acid is what was used to clean my fathers boat before we buffed it out. It made the buffing go much quicker, after cleaning it with the acid. Just be sure to wear proper PPE when working with it.
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If you sand 600/800 on up the darker the hull more steps.oxalic acid might help.Some folks even use muratic acid with good results. Do be careful with chemicals and read directions.Bar keepers freind is very cheap and will save time and money. I could go on and on about what to do and use but won't The Hulltruth an excellent source for boats restoration and real world explanations. I would say Autogeek is more auto question freindly.You would think with their new marine product launch they would focus on this fourm also. I think the amount of activities in this sub forum it's obvious you are on your own. 3m compounds and sandpapers are worth the extra money for your project
 
STPETEDALE said:
If you sand 600/800 on up the darker the hull more steps.oxalic acid might help.Some folks even use muratic acid with good results. Do be careful with chemicals and read directions.Bar keepers freind is very cheap and will save time and money. I could go on and on about what to do and use but won't The Hulltruth an excellent source for boats restoration and real world explanations. I would say Autogeek is more auto question freindly.You would think with their new marine product launch they would focus on this fourm also. I think the amount of activities in this sub forum it's obvious you are on your own. 3m compounds and sandpapers are worth the extra money for your project
Click to expand...


Thanks for the reply.

I'm going to research some more about the different acids.

But I will post some pictures when I'm finished, will probably be a while. But I'll let you know how it turns out.

I'll give some marine compound a try see if it has enough cut.

I know marine compound has so much more grit than the auto compound so you never know.
 
What are you using as far as a "machine?" DA, rotary or "?"?

Take a hard look at Meguiar's Marine Line (blue bottles). Power Cut (M-91) is hard core compound! It is recommended for rotary use, but it will work with a DA...just takes longer.

Always try the least aggressive method first. In other words, hold off even thinking about sanding until you look at the 'compounding route'.

Bill
 
BillE said:
What are you using as far as a "machine?" DA, rotary or "?"?

Take a hard look at Meguiar's Marine Line (blue bottles). Power Cut (M-91) is hard core compound! It is recommended for rotary use, but it will work with a DA...just takes longer.

Always try the least aggressive method first. In other words, hold off even thinking about sanding until you look at the 'compounding route'.

Bill
Click to expand...



I'm going to use a rotary with a wool pad.
And I actually have a bottle of the M-91, I am planning to give it a try first.

I'm debating about the oxalic acid though I don't know if it's worth using. As long as I get the hull clean before and then apply a coat of wax after the results should stay. . . Right?
 
rotary and wool pad with aqua buff 1000. i would definitely try that before i sanded.
 
1 you need to see if it is gelcoat ! Alot of these boats have been repainted with algrip that have alot more hardner in them and if you sand them you will not be able to buff out sand marks!!!!
2 Take some 1000 grit and do a test spot if you get a milky color the same as the boat its gelcoat and then can sand it.I start with 1000 then finish with 1500.
3 time to buff I use 1000 grit compound and it comes out like new. 4 use a good sealer/wax put on then let it dry buff off with foam pad at speed 2. your done.
 
master detailer said:
1 you need to see if it is gelcoat ! Alot of these boats have been repainted with algrip that have alot more hardner in them and if you sand them you will not be able to buff out sand marks!!!!
2 Take some 1000 grit and do a test spot if you get a milky color the same as the boat its gelcoat and then can sand it.I start with 1000 then finish with 1500.
3 time to buff I use 1000 grit compound and it comes out like new. 4 use a good sealer/wax put on then let it dry buff off with foam pad at speed 2. your done.
Click to expand...


Yeah that's what is probably going to happen. I'm going to try a heavy cut marine compound, if this doesn't deliver good results I'll sand according to your suggestions.

I had been using Collinite #885. The paste fleet wax. I have had pretty good results with this for protection in the past. What do you think of it?
 
If the boat is awlgrip don't polish it at all, you can ruin the finish and at a cost of around $20k depending on the boat size that's not something you want to do. Awlcraft can be polished though.

Washing the boat with oxalic acid helps a ton with removing stains and embedded dirt, you just need to make sure it's gelcoat before using it. It doesn't harm gelcoat at all, but it could potentially damage painted hulls.
 
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