Body Shop Overspray ?

KenVette57

KenVette57

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Hi All,

I recently had my car in the body shop for some paint work, after the work they polished the car. But, when I apply detail spray or even after wash my Micro Fiber goes over the paint rough. What I mean is the towel feels like it's pulling until I get the product up, then it returns . I first thought it was the towel but this is consistent with all my towels. I haven't run the baggie test yet, but it feels like overspray. Does that sound right? If so, should I wash to remove the wax, clay then light compound? Or can I just get the dust off and skipped the wash and go straight to clay..

Thanks for your help, Ken
 
Clay should remove the overspray.

keep it lubricated well with light pressure to avoid marring


depending on the color/paint hardness you should inspect for marring and follow up with a light polishing session
 
thebamboo23 said:
Clay should remove the overspray.

keep it lubricated well with light pressure to avoid marring


depending on the color/paint hardness you should inspect for marring and follow up with a light polishing session
Click to expand...

I agree, good advice.
 
Yeah, I just did the baggie test and it's there. I'll be claying the whole car, not a bad way to spend a Monday though.


Thanks
 
Those speedy prep towels are a personal favorite for overspray!

But like mentioned earlier keep everything lubed and have fun


Chad @ divine details
 
I had the same thing happen to me. Clay the whole car polish and lsp and good as new.
 
Thanks all,

So, my Micro Fiber towels grabbing is because of the overspray, not the towel ?
 
KenVette57 said:
Thanks all,

So, my Micro Fiber towels grabbing is because of the overspray, not the towel ?
Click to expand...


Hi Ken,

I've typed this so much in my life I guess it's time to write an article on it...


"The most common place to get overspray on your car is a body shop"


You can quote me on that.


Why? Simple... because they spray paint at body shops and not just in the enclosed paint booth.

Even if they only sprayed paint inside the paint booth overspray is still a problem because,

A: Airborne sticky particles of fresh paint can travel and land everywhere and anywhere.

B: Not all shops tape-off and cover-up 100% of the portions of a car NOT being painted. For example if painting a fender, some shops won't tape-off and cover all the other parts of the car like the back wheels, or back of car, etc. Overspray paint is non-selective, it drifts in the air and sticks wherever it lands.

So...

"The most common place to get overspray on your car is a body shop"


See this article, it's also in my how-to book...

The Baggie Test - How to inspect for above surface bonded contaminants


:)
 
Since I type up all these write-ups it's easy for me to rememer where there at and then share the blue clickable link. Not sure you can find this feature on any other discussion forum...


We've had to cool cars here recently that had some bodywork and repainting done to ONLY PARTS OF THE BODY.

The results were overspray paint on the rest of the car. Now if this is happening to COOL CARS how much more so will it happen to daily drivers?

My guess is it's the NORM, not the exception to the rule.

Here you go, read these and then when I say,


I think you'll believe me...


1963 Plymouth Fury Drag Race Car - Pictures & Video

See post #17


Removing Paint Overspray by Machine at Autogeek's Show Car Garage...

1963_Plymouth_Fury_Drag_Racer_021.jpg





Here's another recent example of a cool car with paint overspray after having only a portion of the car worked on and then repainted.

1965 Mustang GT Convertible - Detailer's Paint Coating

Read the first post and then watch and LISTEN to the embedded YouTube video as you can HEAR the roughness of the paint due to the paint overspray.


Mechanically Decontaminate Paint
The car had overspray on all of the body panels and really bad in some areas. To remove the overspray paint we're using Nanoskin Autoscrub Pads, "Medium Grade" on Porter Cable, Griot's and Meguiar's dual action polishers with the Nanoskin Glide for a lube.


1965_Mustang_GT_Convertible_021.jpg



:)
 
Heck just having a car parked NEAR a body shop can result in overspray all over the exterior including the glass, wheels, tires, bed and body panels...


1949 Chevy 5-Window Pickup Extreme Makeover - Pictures & Videos

1949_Chevy_Truck_040.jpg


1949_Chevy_Truck_041.jpg



1949_Chevy_Truck_043.jpg





Another cool truck that's been through Autogeek's Show Car Garage where we've taken a diamond in the rough and turned it into a glistening gemstone...


1949_Chevy_Truck_081.jpg



I could do this all day...


:D
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Hi Ken,

I've typed this so much in my life I guess it's time to write an article on it...


"The most common place to get overspray on your car is a body shop"


You can quote me on that.


Why? Simple... because they spray paint at body shops and not just in the enclosed paint booth.

Even if they only sprayed paint inside the paint booth overspray is still a problem because,

A: Airborne sticky particles of fresh paint can travel and land everywhere and anywhere.

B: Not all shops tape-off and cover-up 100% of the portions of a car NOT being painted. For example if painting a fender, some shops won't tape-off and cover all the other parts of the car like the back wheels, or back of car, etc. Overspray paint is non-selective, it drifts in the air and sticks wherever it lands.

So...

"The most common place to get overspray on your car is a body shop"


See this article, it's also in my how-to book...

The Baggie Test - How to inspect for above surface bonded contaminants


:)
Click to expand...

Thanks Mike, great information!!! I figured as much, after I got it home I washed it, went with some MG Final Inspection and hit it with the towel. That puppy ddrrraaaggggeeddd big time. Well, I clayed the entire cay yesterday, just soaked it with detailer to lube it up. Smooth as glass to the touch, but when I used the baggie I can still feel material. I guess I should go over the car one more time, or would M205 eliminate the rest? I may have have to apply twice?

Thanks Mike
 
KenVette57 said:
Thanks Mike, great information!!! I figured as much, after I got it home I washed it, went with some MG Final Inspection and hit it with the towel. That puppy ddrrraaaggggeeddd big time.

Well, I clayed the entire cay yesterday, just soaked it with detailer to lube it up. Smooth as glass to the touch, but when I used the baggie I can still feel material.

I guess I should go over the car one more time, or would M205 eliminate the rest? I may have have to apply twice?

Thanks Mike
Click to expand...


Sometimes the baggie test can be hard to please...

You can try claying again or do a test post by polishing and then inspect.


Hard to say what will work 100%. The Nanoskin products, especially machine application tend to really do the best job but in my experience you do then want and need to machine polish.


A $4.00 Plastic Drop Cloth could have prevented this...



:dblthumb2:
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Sometimes the baggie test can be hard to please...

You can try claying again or do a test post by polishing and then inspect.


Hard to say what will work 100%. The Nanoskin products, especially machine application tend to really do the best job but in my experience you do then want and need to machine polish.


A $4.00 Plastic Drop Cloth could have prevented this...



:dblthumb2:
Click to expand...

I think it's time to go to Nanoskin and throw away the clay. Looks much easier...
 
Mike Phillips said:
Hi Ken,

I've typed this so much in my life I guess it's time to write an article on it...


"The most common place to get overspray on your car is a body shop"
Click to expand...


Just had a guy send me an e-mail from the state of Washington with this problem.


I thought I wrote this article? When to search and only found this thread.



Time to write the article...


:)
 
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