Brake pads?

Don't know about your dusting but I personally would skip drilled rotors however.

Vented/Slotted/Drilled rotors are pretty much hot fashion on a vehicle just like rims/carbon fiber pieces for a visual enthusiast however...

If you notice race car setups don't use drilled because they can stress and crack at the drill points which would be fine for a street car...but you'll get to the point where the crack will travel further out and actually split the disc

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Unfortunately those are an example of low quality pot metal rotors. A high quality set will not do that. What causes that in cheap rotors is almost like a de-lamentation of the metal itself. The split or crack is not all the way through, however it will still cause braking issues.

The only reason to upgrade your brakes is if you are going faster, added more weight or larger tires.

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Unfortunately those are an example of low quality pot metal rotors. A high quality set will not do that. What causes that in cheap rotors is almost like a de-lamentation of the metal itself. The split or crack is not all the way through, however it will still cause braking issues.

The only reason to upgrade your brakes is if you are going faster, added more weight or larger tires.

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Actually if you want to stop a smaller set does fine.

Remember that the Brake + Pads is just one part of the equation, the biggest factor is your tires. Better tires = less stopping distance.

Also larger rotors don't actually help you stop better; they actually help in dissipate heat better which in turn has less brake fade. Which also allows for consistent performance in braking performance.

On SF when Brembo F40 BBK was a big hit some members had their rotors crack, I'll look for thos pictures but its been years.
 
Slots or holes or a combination of both. The objective is dissipate the gases from between the pad itself and the rotor ensuring complete seating of the pad under brake pressure. Several performance vehicles use these types of rotors quite successfully....

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Actually if you want to stop a smaller set does fine.

Remember that the Brake + Pads is just one part of the equation, the biggest factor is your tires. Better tires = less stopping distance.

Also larger rotors don't actually help you stop better; they actually help in dissipate heat better which in turn has less brake fade. Which also allows for consistent performance in braking performance.

On SF when Brembo F40 BBK was a big hit some members had their rotors crack, I'll look for thos pictures but its been years.

no better tires does not mean less stopping distance. if u have a very weak brake system which cannot lock up the tires or engage abs, how will upgrading tires improve stopping distance?
 
I would think that a larger rotor allows for a larger surface area for the pad to clamp to... the heat would be proportional to the size of the rotor unless you just upgraded to larger rotors and kept the OE sized pads and calipers.... right?

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Slots or holes or a combination of both. The objective is dissipate the gases from between the pad itself and the rotor ensuring complete seating of the pad under brake pressure. Several performance vehicles use these types of rotors quite successfully....

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Drilled rotors also has lesser surface area for your pads to bite onto btw. Slotted are always great, many OEM sends out drilled/slotted rotors because most of the time the cars that have these will never hit the limit or have a driver that will take the car to its very knife edge limit. Not only that usually its very visually appealing.

I'm not trying to scare anyone from buying drilled since it won't shatter on you. It's just my opinion that people should skip the looks.

no better tires does not mean less stopping distance. if u have a very weak brake system which cannot lock up the tires or engage abs, how will upgrading tires improve stopping distance?

Your tires are the ONLY part of the car that actually touch the surface. If you're looking for better stopping distance your tires are FIRST thing you should look at upgrading (not only that they're pretty damn cheap compared to a whole new brake kit besides the brake pads).

And why would you want to engage the ABS system and or lock up your tires? That's pretty dangerous (the tire part).
 
I would think that a larger rotor allows for a larger surface area for the pad to clamp to... the heat would be proportional to the size of the rotor unless you just upgraded to larger rotors and kept the OE sized pads and calipers.... right?

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if u can fit a larger rotor using the same pads/caliper, the brakes will operate cooler due to increase in size. also, braking power will be increased because the pads are now grabbing the outer portion where the rotor travel faster absorbing more torque.
 
Drilled rotors also has lesser surface area for your pads to bite onto btw.



Your tires are the ONLY part of the car that actually touch the surface. If you're looking for better stopping distance your tires are FIRST thing you should look at upgrading (not only that they're pretty damn cheap compared to a whole new brake kit besides the brake pads).

And why would you want to engage the ABS system and or lock up your tires? That's pretty dangerous (the tire part).

StopTech : Balanced Brake Upgrades

i had a car with very weak brakes where if i slam them, i cannot lock up the tires even in the rain. clearly this situation can be inproved by upgrading brakes, not tires. you still havent answered my question of how upgrading tires will improve performance when the current tires provide more than enough grip for the brakes to work 100%.

locking up tires/engaging abs proves that your brakes are better than what your tires can handle which means upgrading tires will be usefull
 
if u can fit a larger rotor using the same pads/caliper, the brakes will operate cooler due to increase in size. also, braking power will be increased because the pads are now grabbing the outer portion where the rotor travel faster absorbing more torque.

That's what I said... why go with a bigger rotor and keep the same sized caliper?! Forget it.... you guys think about this one...

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Few comments/answers after skimming this thread:

* Ceramic-based pads are good for low dusting but can squeal.

* Be careful of a lot of high-performance pads as they need some heat in them to work.

* If you don't mind a little more dust, EBC green are my favorite street pads as they don't need heat to work, have a high coefficient of friction, and are pretty linear with heat.

* Disagree about the comment re: cracking and cheap pot-metal rotors. Porsche, Brembo, Alcon, etc., will all crack under enough heat stress. Drilled rotors promote stress cracks and tend to wear in grooves. Slotted can be noisy. Unless for bling, I'd stick with solid. No need to replace rotors unless they need it.

* Disagree about comments regarding tires versus brakes. There is a lot more to it than that. Unless you have a very old car, most factory brakes can lock the tires. In general, bigger brakes will only get you greater heat soak/dissipation and higher unsprung weight. Significant improvements can be made, however, in feel and brake bias.

* Bigger diameter rotors only increase the brake torque a small amount, say < ~10%, but different pads (say u=0.45 vs. 0.30) can give you ~50%.

* Agree that changing/trying various pads is a lot cheaper than new brakes. You should know what you're trying to accomplish first.
 
StopTech : Balanced Brake Upgrades

i had a car with very weak brakes where if i slam them, i cannot lock up the tires even in the rain. clearly this situation can be inproved by upgrading brakes, not tires. you still havent answered my question of how upgrading tires will improve performance when the current tires provide more than enough grip for the brakes to work 100%.

I actually have.

Also from your link

The question about drilled vs normal argument that I started.

Which is better, slotted or drilled rotors?

StopTech provides rotors slotted, drilled or plain. For most performance applications slotted is the preferred choice. Slotting helps wipe away debris from between the pad and rotor as well as increasing the "bite" characteristics of the pad. A drilled rotor provides the same type of benefit, but is more susceptible to cracking under severe usage. Many customers prefer the look of a drilled rotor and for street and occasional light duty track use they will work fine. For more severe applications, we recommend slotted rotors.

Then about ABS and downhill

Regardless of your braking system and/or its modifications, the tire is the limiting factor. When we track our cars we must work within the confines of the laws of physics - and it doesn't matter who designed your braking system.
 
I actually have.

Also from your link

The question about drilled vs normal argument that I started.



Then about ABS and downhill

if u think about it this way, is it necessary to put a aircraft grade brake on a 90hp toyota tercel with 155 wide eco tire. will there be any benefit vs a racing brake setup. (assuming pads do not need to be warmed up etc.)

there are less situation where a cars brakes are too weak to not be able to lock up tires. this case, the brakes are the only things that need to be improved since tires are gripping fine.

in the end you need to find balance and see whats the bottleneck for performance.
 
I've heard of a lot of people that have had good luck with Hawk HPS Street pads with the stock rotors on the Si. I have a 2007 Si sedan myself and I will be grabbing some Hawk HPS pads as soon as my OEM pads are worn down.

How many miles do you have on your 07? I have an 08 and just replaced my tires and the shop said my front brakes needed to be replaced. I have around 45k on my car. I didn't think I rode my brakes that hard

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I just put a set of 225/45/17 hankook ventus tires on. From researching these they seem to be a good summer tire. I was hoping to not have to buy new rotors yet.... my money tree is looking a little bare these days!

Thanks for all the input!

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