Brand new paintjob prep

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malin819

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Hi guys!!

I got my car repainted before putting her to sleep before the winter








I know she had a few coat of wax by the body shop but I want to start from scratch and make her beautiful!! Now I have read on the forum and decided to give Duragloss a go after seeing reviews and pictures.

I’d like to say I’m not a professional detailer and this will be my alone time with my car. I already have a Porter Cable and will buy more pads for this job

Here is my plan of action and I’ll need your input please:

Wash
Clay
Iron X
Wash
Megs UC (not sure but if I do) LC Orange pad..would like some input if it’s really needed to compound her
Megs UP / LC White pad
DG 601 and 501 / LC White Pad
DG 601 and 105 / LC Green Pad
DG 601 and 111 / LC Black Pad or Collinite 845 … I was debating putting a final of 111 or wax just for the added shine (input needed)

What should I use to protect my scoop delete on the hood? It’s made of aluminum and powder coated

I’ll polish the head and tail light with Megs UP and apply a coat of 105 to seal them and I’ll clean the rims and seal them with 105 again

Now I have an open mind here and would like your input on anything that I have wrote. I know my fellow forum members are car dedicated like me and I’d like to keep this thread clean J
 
I would Iron X prior to claying, the second wash might not be necessary depending on what is left behind after claying. As for the scoop delete, I would just mask it off with the green 3M tape sold here.
 
I meant how can I detail the scoop delete .. sorry for the miscommunication on my part
 
malin819 said:
I meant how can I detail the scoop delete .. sorry for the miscommunication on my part
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Find something you like and use it often....somebody smart said that once.

A couple good ones would be:
Gtechniq C4
Carpro Dlux (this has gotten some heat lately)
Ultima tire and trim guard
Wolfgang exterior trim sealant

You may not need the UC if the paint is in good condition. Tough to tell in the photos and the body shop may have used something to hide any swirls. It should be evaluated after all the Decon steps.
 
Thanks!

Ill give it a go put I don't think I'll need a compound
 
How long did the body-shop/painter say it would take for the new paint job to totally cure/harden?


Bob
 
I have no further suggestions, your setup looks pretty good. Whatever you do post some after pictures because your car is pretty sweet.
 
out of the bodyshop late november. She is currently stored away for winter and will tackle this task mid march. Paint till have cured by then.

And thanns for the comments guys
 
malin819 said:
out of the bodyshop late november. She is currently stored away for winter and will tackle this task mid march. Paint till have cured by then.

And thanns for the comments guys
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The paint has most likely long since cured since most paints are chemically cured these days. The longer you wait the harder it will be to cut with a polish (ie when the paint is fresh it will actually be softer and you can use less aggressive products). Most likely your body shop has already cut the paint w/ a rotary buffer and if they did a quality job only minor correction will be needed.
 
If its a fresh paint job, really no need for iron x. I would just use a mild paint cleaner to remove whatever the dealership put on, then a high quality sealant. ( I like Sonax PNS)
 
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