Brand new truck - want to do it right

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buddy01

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So I just bought a 2018 Ford F-150 Supercrew in metallic gray. I want to make sure I keep this truck looking good. For now it sits outside since it’s to long for my garage, might put another bay on in future. I currently own various wheel brushes, 2 bucket system, soaps and what have you. Not sure if any of these products have a shelf life, but they were bought last year. What is the best process to do first to a brand new vehicle? I do not own a machine polisher, maybe in future I will. But any input I appreciate.
 
Since you don't have a DA, doing a quality polish by hand would almost impossible and very time consuming on a truck that's too big to fit in a garage.

I'd recommend giving it a good wash and then applying a highly durable sealant. From then on keep it clean and apply additional sealant over time as needed until you have the ability to polish it out with a DA.
 
I second or third the sealant option. Splurge for the DA you won't regret it but until then just keep it sealed the best you can and wash and 'neatly' as possible.
 
You can keep it nice for a very long time after applying sealant just by washing regularly and using a spray wax as a drying aid. Optimum, McKee's, Megs, et. al. have decent spray waxes.
 
Any specific sealant you guys recommend? I am looking at getting a DA in future, just need to do more research on which one will be best for me.
 
I like duragloss 111. I like a lot Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0 a lot. NXT wax (More of a sealant and OTC to boot). Supernatural hybrid is ok. Opti Seal.

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Awesome thanks man! Now to decide to order or get something OTC to do right away. Should I put a spray wax on top of it as well?
 
I wouldn't at this time buddy. Maybe for a little maintenance in between wax or sealant or even as a drying aid but not necessary each time... but hey... can't hurt. Lol.

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Ok then I’ll do thorough wash then do sealant on top and then every week use spray wax as drying aid. How often should I apply sealant? Never done this before? Should I watch out for plastic pieces?
 
Well. Depends maybe on the sealant and other factors like wash technique... weather... drive... road stuff etc. Typically 6 months is maybe average. And it should say weather or not to get on plastics. Some you can actually use on trim and others not so much. Just use some caution...



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Great points. I always figure on a good sealant by itself will lasting six months-ish. If you top it with a spray wax or spray sealant every wash, it will last even longer.

In addition to those mentioned, Sonax Polymer Net Shield, Collinite 845, or FK1000 might be good choices as well. There are lots of good products here at almost every price point.
 
Sealants are the answer but read the instructions. The instructions on some sealants say that the sealants need 8 hours to "cure", without any moisture on them.
 
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What are your guys thoughts on me doing this:

Wash truck, clay bar, then sealant. Or will the clay bar be a bad idea since I don’t have a DA to do any correction.
 
buddy01 said:
What are your guys thoughts on me doing this:

Wash truck, clay bar, then sealant. Or will the clay bar be a bad idea since I don’t have a DA to do any correction.
Click to expand...

I think it’s definitely a solid plan. As far as the claybar, just make sure to use plenty of lube [too much can’t ever hurt anything, too little however can] Start off slow and easy and let the paint guide your speed. Every new area starts off slow and before you know it you’re gliding and that’s usually when it’s ready and done to move on. Do a test spot with the clay, dry it and inspect. If it doesn’t look like you’ve marred the paint [it’ll look like little cheetah marks] then you’re doing just fine. Good luck, IME clay marring is pretty rare.
 
Eldorado2k said:
I think it’s definitely a solid plan. As far as the claybar, just make sure to use plenty of lube [too much can’t ever hurt anything, too little however can] Start off slow and easy and let the paint guide your speed. Every new area starts off slow and before you know it you’re gliding and that’s usually when it’s ready and done to move on. Do a test spot with the clay, dry it and inspect. If it doesn’t look like you’ve marred the paint [it’ll look like little cheetah marks] then you’re doing just fine. Good luck, IME clay marring is pretty rare.
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Exactly my plan of attack when I bought my truck (and had no DA).

Like Eldo says, lube to the point of over lubing at first if you are unsure. You'll get the hang of it after the first 1/2 panel or so.
 
buddy01 said:
Any specific sealant you guys recommend? I am looking at getting a DA in future, just need to do more research on which one will be best for me.
Click to expand...

I love Duragloss 111. I use a lot of Meguiar's M21 though.
 
I’ll make sure I use more then enough lube because I am not trying to hurt the paint since I don’t have a DA to correct yet. Should I get a actual clay lube or use foam gun with soap? I plan to also take off my FX4 sticker on my bed. Seen some videos people say to just heat it up and just peel off. If there is residue left behind what’s the safest cleaner or whatever to put in residue to remove?

I’m stuck on what sealant to go with, choices:
FK1000
Duragloss 111
Jescar Powerlock+ with Collinite 845
 
Use clay lube, and use a very fine clay like the Pinnacle. You might also consider decontaminating with CarPro IronX after first wash and dry before claying. If your truck was transported by rail, you can bet there is a bunch of rail dust on it. Also, expect your brakes to make a lot of brake dust the first thousand miles or so. Keep the wheels clean. Consider putting a sealant on them to make them easier to keep clean.
Usually, graphics adhesive comes right off with clay. tear off a small piece and make a small patty just for the adhesive. Either that, or do the adhesive last. Then chuck whatever clay has adhesive residue in it.
 
Get a large maroon bottle of Megs Quik Detailer. What clay will you be using?
 
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