Broken down polish
- Thread starter mgerencs
- Start date
Jimmie
New member
- Dec 12, 2006
- 4,349
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:iagree::whs:and you can see how the paint looks through the talc.
Bunky
Well-known member
- Jun 20, 2007
- 6,427
- 148
If you use too much polish per panel, it affects the change. You always use less than you think. By using a halogen light shining off the paint at the right angle, you can see that you are getting enough polish down and the visual change (goes clearer) is more obvious.
mgerencs
New member
- Jul 6, 2008
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- Thread starter
- #8
Not sure, what would you recommend? It's a first for me in about 15 years. I had a sears polisher that I trashed. I spent 2 weekends a year since doing the hand applied 3 part meguiar's deep crystal system. Seems I'll need to get some halogen lamp setup also. I want to do it right.
blacknblu
New member
- Apr 21, 2008
- 122
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I too was using Megs 3 step Deep Crystal System up to when I purchased the Flex 3401.
IMHO, step 2 (the polish) doesn't remove paint defects that well. I was polishing a 2 X 2 area with the Flex until the polish broke down. The resulting sheen was very nice (and deep), but I couldn't tell that any scratches/swirls/webs had been removed. I was beginning to think I had made a serious mistake purchasing the Flex until Rsurfer pointed me towards Menz 106ff. I took his advice, and have been VERY pleased with the results.
I still think Step 1 is good for an AIO, and Step 3 is a pretty decent OTC wax, but nix Step 2 and opt for a better polish. Megs 3 step Deep Crystal System is about as good I had found (OTC) when working by hand. :cheers:
Bence
New member
- Mar 3, 2006
- 157
- 0
Ah, thanks. Thought you were Hungarian, because Gerencs is a Hungarian name too.
Back to the original question. Breaking down means that the diminishing abrasives in a polish reach their final, extremely fine state, and they practically disappear. Their size is getting smaller and smaller, and after they performed the initial cut (while being in their original size), they break down into finer particles and do the final fine polishing of the surface, giving high gloss and great clarity. Heavier products, such as compounds usually contain macro abrasives (gritty feel between fingers), while other types, such as finer polishes contain micro abrasives (lotion-like). The abrasives (grit) are 'agglomerates' which break down to smaller, finer particles 'primary crystals' as they work. This can happen mechanically and/or temp-sensitively.
As you watch the trace of the polish, you can see that it gets finer as you progress with the procedure. When the polish is so fine that it is almost translucent, opaque - because the particles in it are now ever soooo small - this is the final state of its working cycle - the polish has broken down, and it is ready for removal.
Don't work them until they start to dust because dust particles can mar the finish. In the end, you will end up with less residue, easier removal. There is no firm timeframe for the working time of a given polish. Count in factors like outside temp., surface temp., humidity, pad type, pressure, machine speed, etc. In ceratin conditions the product can flash. Flashing means that a polish reaches an unwanted dry state very suddenly, often without completing its working cycle.
Back to the original question. Breaking down means that the diminishing abrasives in a polish reach their final, extremely fine state, and they practically disappear. Their size is getting smaller and smaller, and after they performed the initial cut (while being in their original size), they break down into finer particles and do the final fine polishing of the surface, giving high gloss and great clarity. Heavier products, such as compounds usually contain macro abrasives (gritty feel between fingers), while other types, such as finer polishes contain micro abrasives (lotion-like). The abrasives (grit) are 'agglomerates' which break down to smaller, finer particles 'primary crystals' as they work. This can happen mechanically and/or temp-sensitively.
As you watch the trace of the polish, you can see that it gets finer as you progress with the procedure. When the polish is so fine that it is almost translucent, opaque - because the particles in it are now ever soooo small - this is the final state of its working cycle - the polish has broken down, and it is ready for removal.
Don't work them until they start to dust because dust particles can mar the finish. In the end, you will end up with less residue, easier removal. There is no firm timeframe for the working time of a given polish. Count in factors like outside temp., surface temp., humidity, pad type, pressure, machine speed, etc. In ceratin conditions the product can flash. Flashing means that a polish reaches an unwanted dry state very suddenly, often without completing its working cycle.
karburn
New member
- Feb 25, 2008
- 172
- 0
If it's not too late for another question on this topic, does anyone have any tips on how to monitor the break-down progress on a WHITE care? I'm having a really difficult time on my white 560SL, and I tend to stop too soon when working on a panel because I can't really tell what's going on. Maybe I need to find some polish with some color to it! (wishful thinking, I know). Any feedback is appreciated.