Buffing out by hand in tight areas with m105

Mark Preus

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What grit of sand paper do yall feel that m105 could remove by hand? Im doing a full wet sand and buff and I am debating on wetsanding the areas I cant use a machine on. Should I only use 2000 grit and up? I will be using the m105 by hand to remove the scratches. TIA
 
I mean... if you need to use 1500, then 2000 in those areas I know that 105 can def take them out! I would stay in the 2000-2500 range for sure though
 
Thanks I just don't want to wetsand those areas and not be able to get the scrathes out
 
Couple of suggestions...

If the paint is fresh then it will be easier to work your sanding marks out by hand versus if it were factory baked-on paint.

You can always start out with a piece of 100% cotton to give the M105 more bite or abrading power and then redo the area using foam or microfiber

I've removed #2000 by hand using M105 and terry cloth on factory baked-on paint so you should be able to repeat this on fresh paint.

Get a piece of #2500 or #3000 Nikken and use this to reduce the initial sanding marks to be more shallow.

If you have it, use the Abralon #4000 grit by hand. The foam backing acts a little like a backing pad to spread out the pressure from your fingers.


:)
 
Couple of suggestions...

If the paint is fresh then it will be easier to work your sanding marks out by hand versus if it were factory baked-on paint.

You can always start out with a piece of 100% cotton to give the M105 more bite or abrading power and then redo the area using foam or microfiber

I've removed #2000 by hand using M105 and terry cloth on factory baked-on paint so you should be able to repeat this on fresh paint.

Get a piece of #2500 or #3000 Nikken and use this to reduce the initial sanding marks to be more shallow.

If you have it, use the Abralon #4000 grit by hand. The foam backing acts a little like a backing pad to spread out the pressure from your fingers.


:)
Some great suggestions Mike,Have to write them down for future reference
 
Speaking of doing #105 by hand in areas that you can't reach ... how about the fingernail marks inside a door handle latch? I tried with #105 on a hand held orange light cutting pad and it only removed half of the defects. Sounds like I should try 100% cotten first or is there another trick to door handles?
 
Speaking of doing #105 by hand in areas that you can't reach ... how about the fingernail marks inside a door handle latch? I tried with #105 on a hand held orange light cutting pad and it only removed half of the defects. Sounds like I should try 100% cotten first or is there another trick to door handles?

Here is one of my secrets.... get a damp magic eraser and rub it lightly like sand paper..... then use the m105 with a terry cloth and proceed with a microfiber... then use the 205 and see the results.. hope this helps
 
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