Buying then mod'n HF DA. What do i need?

M

meadlock87

New member
Joined
Jun 28, 2014
Messages
8
Reaction score
0
Sorry title was misleading. I'm buying and modifying the HF DA. I'm new to detailing so I must ask before I make a mistake. I have a black truck I'm trying to bring back it's former glory. I have megs ultimate compound megs polishing compound and wax for darker cars. I'm I'm.search of information on what pads I use to apply the remove my uc. The same with the pc and wax. Also is there a quick change kit for this DA so I don't take the chance on my compounds drying and being impossible to remove. I see many people struggle to swap heads before its dries. Thank you all in advance.Feed back please
 
First I would read this http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/50162-how-do-test-spot.html


Hope this helps with your questions.

5" backing plate (read http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/27166-how-maximize-your-da-polisher.html)
lake country 5 inch backing plate, 5 inch backin plate, 5 inch hook and loop backing plate

5.5" pads
2 - 6 packs: 5 orange (compound), 5 white (polish), 2 black (glaze, wax, sealant)
Lake Country 5 1/2 x 7/8 inch Beveled Edge Foam Pads, buffing pads, Lake Country curved edge pads, polishing pads

Pick up some UP to follow the UC for added clarity. You always want to follow a compound with a polish.

The Hook and Loop (aka Velcro) allows quick change of pad so the backing plate stays on.

The removal of compounds, polishes, and LSP (last steop products: wax/sealant) can be done with quality microfiber towels

Also some good reading http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/20135-how-clean-your-foam-pad-fly.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...lips/49163-how-clean-foam-polishing-pads.html

:xyxthumbs:
 
Okay thank you. I've had people tell me to use a waffle pad on black paint us that true? Oh and are these the best pads to buy it is cobra or mezurma I think that's the names better pads. I'm new to this which is why I ask
 
I have used Lake Country and have never had a problem with them. They have always performed well for me. Like the saying goes "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".

In a jam I did buy some 3M waffle pads once and in my opinion they absorbed more product. There was also some "sling" with them. There was no obvious better performance in the waffle pad.

Brand will be a "your mileage may vary" type thing. Everyone has their preference of products.

For an example. My father just repainted his 98 Harley Electra Glide in Pearl Black. After wet snading with 2K grit he used some of my old LC 6.5" pads, Meg's 105/205, and a 2 Speed Craftsman DA polisher (since all he knew was it was a DA). He achieved excellent results for a first time DYI. I do have to repolish it for him to bring some more clarity.


View attachment 28963


View attachment 28964

That was his first time paint, sand, and polishing.
 
I bought the Polish compound already. Thanks for the help you've given me. Thanks a lot. I've been researching everything and I have another question if I may. Do I need the black pad to remove any possible buffer swirling? Also are 2 packs necessary to complete my short bed truck. Just wondering BC that's 70 bucks. Also what type of polisher do you use? I've got to buy one. Been looking and the Porter cable but had people recommend the harbor freight one with a few mods. What d you use or recommend?
 
The white pad is for polishing after compounding with the orange, the black is for applying wax or sealant with the machine. You could do one pack, it is just more convenient to have more pads. For one pack I would do 2 orange 3 white and 1 black; or 3orange and 3 white if you want to apply LSP by hand.

I use a PC, and just bought a HF since on paper it has more power and cheaper than a GG da. My next purchase will be a flex in a year or two. However, I will not get to mod and play with the HF till the end of July when I get back to the US.

I will put it to the test with at least 6-7 cars, a boat, and 2 motorcycles in a 6 week span. That's from my 2 personal cars and parents and in-laws stuff. So we shall see if it holds up. The bikes will be done with a 3.5" bp and 4" pads which will see how versatile it is.

Sent from my GT-P5110 using AG Online
 
Okay I've just notice ed my compound drying to quickly and after I buff off by hand some spot around the edges of my pass seems almost like cement when trying to remove. I wasn't sure if needed another pad to remove compounds polished and waxes to make it easier. Or if I'm making a mistake somehow...
 
Anytime a good swipe doesn't remove product I spray a little QD on it then wipe up again. I have never used UC or UP by hand, so not sure there.

Sent from my GT-P5110 using AG Online
 
I still remove everything by hand. They do make MF bonnets you can put over the pads to remove product. I just think they are a waste of time and you get more use from a towel.
 
meadlock87 You seem to be asking allot of very basic questions.

Try to do some reading and watching of videos before you jump into this too deep. Here's a list of articles written by Mike Phillips that should really help--pick and choose the ones you want to read and save the remainder for when you have a specific question----


Car detailing articles by Mike Phillips



:xyxthumbs:

 
meadlock87 said:
Okay I've just notice ed my compound drying to quickly and after I buff off by hand some spot around the edges of my pass seems almost like cement when trying to remove. I wasn't sure if needed another pad to remove compounds polished and waxes to make it easier. Or if I'm making a mistake somehow...
Click to expand...

You need to make sure you moisten the pad with a spray or two of quick detailer or pad conditioner product
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top