c quartz uk

asalesagent912

asalesagent912

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So after washing, using nano skin on the DA and polishing and then washing again,
i finally got to apply my first coating c quartz uk.
a couple of questions. I did this in my garage but the lighting isnt to good.
it started to rain before i got done so i could not pull it out to see if i missed wiping
any high spots off completely.if i did can they be wiped off tomorrow?
2nd is it look's like i used about only a quarter of the 30 ml bottle. is that normal? Its a lexus I.S 250
 
asalesagent912 said:
if i did can they be wiped off tomorrow?
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Most likely not... first, I would try to wipe them with Eraser. If that doesn't work (which I suspect it will not) lightly polish the high spot by hand with Reflect (or similar), and I would recoat that small area to be safe. Be sure to check the car out ASAP before the coating fully hardens. If you do it in the first day or two you should be fine.

asalesagent912 said:
2nd is it look's like i used about only a quarter of the 30 ml bottle. is that normal? Its a lexus I.S 250
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Yep - you can get 2-4 applications out of a 30mL bottle depending on vehicle size and how thick you apply.
 
zmcgovern45 said:
Most likely not... first, I would try to wipe them with Eraser. If that doesn't work (which I suspect it will not) lightly polish the high spot by hand with Reflect (or similar), and I would recoat that small area to be safe. Be sure to check the car out ASAP before the coating fully hardens. If you do it in the first day or two you should be fine.


Yep - you can get 2-4 applications out of a 30mL bottle depending on vehicle size and how thick you apply.
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if i wipe with eraser will that take the coating off and mean i have to recote that area?
Also i noticed in one of your threads where u coated with c quartz that you went through multiple steps before applying the coating. all i did was use car pro eracer, do u thing that will be a problem for me? thanks for the help
 
asalesagent912 said:
if i wipe with eraser will that take the coating off and mean i have to recote that area?
Click to expand...
The coating should be able to withstand Eraser after 24 hours, but you can recoat those areas if you are worried about it.... but like I said, I imagine Eraser will not be enough and you will have to lightly polish them anyways in which case it is a good idea to touch up the coating.


asalesagent912 said:
Also i noticed in one of your threads where u coated with c quartz that you went through multiple steps before applying the coating. all i did was use car pro eracer, do u thing that will be a problem for me? thanks for the help
Click to expand...
I just wrote this in another thread, so I will copy it here....

Personally, if I am doing a 1 step correction with a product that is not particularly oily and does not leave much dust, I will just jump right to eraser.

If I am compounding and creating a lot of dust or using a polish like SF4500 that is super oily, I will presoak with diluted IPA, foam with a heavy mixture of citrus wash (or IXSS which I just purchased) with possibly a little APC added to the reservoir, rinse very thoroughly, blow dry, and then do an eraser wipe down. The foaming/drying portion only takes an extra 30 minutes or so, so it would be silly to blow it off if you've used a substantially oily product or need to remove a lot of compounding dust. The eraser or IPA wipe down is much easier after this process as you've already removed all or at least the majority of the oils remaining.
 
zmcgovern45 said:
The coating should be able to withstand Eraser after 24 hours, but you can recoat those areas if you are worried about it.... but like I said, I imagine Eraser will not be enough and you will have to lightly polish them anyways in which case it is a good idea to touch up the coating.



I just wrote this in another thread, so I will copy it here....

Personally, if I am doing a 1 step correction with a product that is not particularly oily and does not leave much dust, I will just jump right to eraser.

If I am compounding and creating a lot of dust or using a polish like SF4500 that is super oily, I will presoak with diluted IPA, foam with a heavy mixture of citrus wash (or IXSS which I just purchased) with possibly a little APC added to the reservoir, rinse very thoroughly, blow dry, and then do an eraser wipe down. The foaming/drying portion only takes an extra 30 minutes or so, so it would be silly to blow it off if you've used a substantially oily product or need to remove a lot of compounding dust. The eraser or IPA wipe down is much easier after this process as you've already removed all or at least the majority of the oils remaining.
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well the only compound i used was fg 400. Does it have alot of oils? i did wash it after and then did a wipe down with the eraser. So i also took it out today and didnt notice any high spots so i guess i wiped it off good thank god. I will try to post pics in a couple of days. Thanks again for all your help..
 
asalesagent912 said:
well the only compound i used was fg 400. Does it have alot of oils? i did wash it after and then did a wipe down with the eraser. So i also took it out today and didnt notice any high spots so i guess i wiped it off good thank god. I will try to post pics in a couple of days. Thanks again for all your help..
Click to expand...

FG400 is not excessively oily IMO, since you washed it and did an eraser wipe down you should be fine.

Post pics? :dblthumb2:
 
CDot said:
Thanks for this info--I was curious about the amount it takes for a vehicle. The website says 30mL (CQuartz Ceramic Quartz Paint Protection, CQuartz nano coating, nano paint sealant) will only coat one standard-size car and you need the 50mL for an SUV.
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I believe they err on the side of caution. It is not unlikely that am amateur will use WAY too much product when applying these coatings, so if they were to claim 2+ vehicles per bottle they would probably have a lot of unhappy first time users.

Just my assumption.
 
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