Calling All Air Compressor Experts...

Getting quiet operation and higher CFM ratings typically costs a boatload of money like thousands. The tradeoff for a less costly compressor is noise and less reliability. I am looking around for something to recommend. Does it need to be portable and how big gallons wise is too big?
 
get an oil lubed compressor, they are more queit then oil less ones. The down side is that you can not lay it down on the side it must always be upright.
 
DHCrocks said:
get an oil lubed compressor, they are more queit then oil less ones. The down side is that you can not lay it down on the side it must always be upright.
Click to expand...
I agree with DHCrocks but if it must be oilless this should do the trick but at 88db noise level 1.8 HP, 17 Gallon, 150 PSI Oilless Air Compressor

or if you're more the high quality tool type of guy this one should do but there is no info on the noise level Air Compressor, 120 V, 1.8 HP, 6 Gal Tank - Portable Electric Air Compressors - Air Compressors and Vacuum Pumps - 1NNE7 : Grainger Industrial Supply
 
I have been researching compressors and lately fir the money most have been complete crap unless you want to spend some money. I have had a porter cable 6hp 8.3 cfm at40 psi 25 gal for 10 years that I got at lowes and it is by far the most powerful and reliable one i have had that is electric and oil less. I also have a 6 gal pancake that is craftsman that I use for mobile detailing that has been decent. I got the pancake for 189 out the door. It's nit the quietest but I can blow out mf disks and pads and run my tornador for a good amount of time. If space/mobile is an issue I would rec the craftsman. The pc cost around $400-500 if you can find it ( which I haven't been able to) and would highly rec that. I can run my tornador and paints sray gun continuesly along with my air tools. It's not that loud either. Oil lubes are nice because they are queiter and easier to rebuild but do require maintenance. I haven't found one that is reasonable priced with the same specs as the pc. Most I have seen are around 1-2 hp. I have also used gas powered units but that is a whole different league. Hope this helps
 
Is there a particular reason you were looking for an oil-less compressor?

Blowing out pads on the fly does not require a ton of cfm to complete the job. A simple pancake compressor would work fine.

If away from my garage, I tend to brush out the pad a few times and just grab a clean one. Then, I clean all the pads at one time. If I shut off my compressor at 100 psi, I can thoroughly clean six pads without needing to fire it back up again. Albeit, my compressor is thirteen times larger than the one you listed.

I have looked at some of the small Makita compressors for mobile work, particularly the MAC700. It is oil lubed (what you want) and puts out 3.3 cfm@ 90, which is not too shabby. Plus, it runs about $50 cheaper than the one originally listed.

Just to add, both oil-lubed and oil-less compressors should never be placed on their side. Also, forget about the performance at 40 psi. If you intend on using the compressor with any tool, that rating is totally useless. It's nothing more than a marketing tool. Almost all tools are rated at 90 psi.
 
PorscheGuy997 said:
Is there a particular reason you were looking for an oil-less compressor?

Blowing out pads on the fly does not require a ton of cfm to complete the job. A simple pancake compressor would work fine.

:iagree:

If away from my garage, I tend to brush out the pad a few times and just grab a clean one. Then, I clean all the pads at one time.

I have looked at some of the small Makita compressors for mobile work, particularly the MAC700. It is oil lubed (what you want) and puts out 3.3 cfm@ 90, which is not too shabby. Plus, it runs about $50 cheaper than the one originally listed.

My only thought about that is ya that is enough to blow out pads but it limits yourself in terms of tools and add ons suchs as the tornador.

Just to add, both oil-lubed and oil-less compressors should never be placed on their side. Also, forget about the performance at 40 psi. If you intend on using the compressor with any tool, that rating is totally useless. It's nothing more than a marketing tool. Almost all tools are rated at 90 psi.
Click to expand...
I run my air tools at 90-110 psi as well you just need a machine that can supply the required cfm to run them. Some of my bigger impacts call for 6-7 cfm and my sprayer calls for almost 8cfm.
If you are solely after to compressor thats primary use is to blow out pads and nothing more then most cheap ones will work. I personally dontsee the point in limiting my self to a low cfm compressor. Jmo but you make very valid points!
 
Most of these small tank air compressors are really only suitable for operating nail guns, staple guns and the like because these type of tools do not use much air at any given moment. When you get into using a constant flow of air such as when blowing the spent polish/removed paint material from a pad or even blowing the dirt out of seat tracks or off of the dash you often times are using more air than what the compressor pump can resupply the tank with so you lose pressure rather quickly as you are relying on the stored compressed air in the tank and not the air that the pump creates to get the job done.

Your best bet is to choose a tool (the air nozzle) that you will use to blow the pad clean and determine the CFM (cubic feet per minute) that the tool uses and match the compressor to the tool. The tank size is an important consideration because to dislodge the stuck on slurry of spent polish/removed paint you will be relying on "both" the rated CFM of the tool and a certain amount of pressure. With small tanks you quickly lose the pressure part of the needed combination of the two, essentially leaving you with plenty of air flow with not enough pressure to dislodge the crud from the pad and the result is that you have to stop and wait for the pump to re pressurize the tank to finish the job.

One sure way to get around the small tank issue is to first thoroughly brush the pad to dislodge the stuck on contaminants and then use your air nozzle to blow out the dislodged particles.

This is why when shopping for air compressors you only see images of construction workers using nail guns and staple guns with these small tank type air compressors because that's what they are designed to be used for and they can't efficiently handle anything more demanding.
 
Ok everyone, at the minimum, what CFM @ 90 psi and gallon size am I looking for to blow out any pad without having to brush them first?

Thanks!

Great info, Dave! Thank you!

tuscarora dave said:
Most of these small tank air compressors are really only suitable for operating nail guns, staple guns and the like because these type of tools do not use much air at any given moment. When you get into using a constant flow of air such as when blowing the spent polish/removed paint material from a pad or even blowing the dirt out of seat tracks or off of the dash you often times are using more air than what the compressor pump can resupply the tank with so you lose pressure rather quickly as you are relying on the stored compressed air in the tank and not the air that the pump creates to get the job done.

Your best bet is to choose a tool (the air nozzle) that you will use to blow the pad clean and determine the CFM (cubic feet per minute) that the tool uses and match the compressor to the tool. The tank size is an important consideration because to dislodge the stuck on slurry of spent polish/removed paint you will be relying on "both" the rated CFM of the tool and a certain amount of pressure. With small tanks you quickly lose the pressure part of the needed combination of the two, essentially leaving you with plenty of air flow with not enough pressure to dislodge the crud from the pad and the result is that you have to stop and wait for the pump to re pressurize the tank to finish the job.

One sure way to get around the small tank issue is to first thoroughly brush the pad to dislodge the stuck on contaminants and then use your air nozzle to blow out the dislodged particles.

This is why when shopping for air compressors you only see images of construction workers using nail guns and staple guns with these small tank type air compressors because that's what they are designed to be used for and they can't efficiently handle anything more demanding.
Click to expand...


Great info, Dave! Thank you!
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
With the specs of this compressor, does it have enough power to thoroughly blow out Microfiber, wool, and foam pads? Please only answer if you're educated on this subject. Thanks.

GMC Power Equipment GMC SYCLONE 4610A Ultra Quiet & Oil-Free Air Compressor (Twin Aluminum Tank) | Wayfair
Click to expand...

YES it does. Since most of your small compressors have a 3-8 gallon tank and working pressure is between 90 to 120 PSI you have plenty of air in the tank to clean your pads. Air blow guns are set at 30 PSI (OSHA Regulation) you have plenty of time to clean your pads. Now, you will not be able to run many air tools for any length of time since most of the small air tools require 3-5 CFM at 60psi. You can still run them but not continuously.
To clean your pads any compressor with 3-5 gallon tank will work in the range from $80.00 on up.

3 Gallon Air Compressor - 1/3 HP, 100 PSI, Oilless
This will work just fine for your needs at only $60.00 plus hose and air nozzle.

Why buy an elephant when small pony will do the job!,,,LOL
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top