Can a glaze really be topped?

Maybe I just haven't used a good glaze but I personally can never tell the difference if I use glaze pre-LSP or not.
 
Ok, a lot of reasons...glazes are usually oily, so you can only top them with a wax, not a sealant. Many people, like Autowerx, find that oily glazes don't really improve the appearance of clearcoat finishes.

There ARE some non-oily glazes, like Danase Wet Glaze, and several variants of Poorboy's and Chemical Guys glazes, which can be topped by a wax or a sealant, and many people do use these to good effect.
 
Would you guys say that a nicely polished and flat surface (from defects) would probably see no benefit from a glaze? I don't know why but I was under the impression that the fillers that glazes use would be either stripped or partially stripped by the LSP.
 
Glazes can do more than fill minor defects.

They can add depth and a wet-look. We position our glaze as the second step of a three step system. The difference is easy to see on a dark color; not so much on a lighter color.
 
forrest@mothers said:
Glazes can do more than fill minor defects.

They can add depth and a wet-look. We position our glaze as the second step of a three step system. The difference is easy to see on a dark color; not so much on a lighter color.
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Maybe that's why I can never tell a difference. The wife's car is bright white and my truck is gray metallic.
 
how do you like aghd? and did you wait 8 hours of bfwd curing time to apply the wax?
 
SON1C said:
how do you like aghd? and did you wait 8 hours of bfwd curing time to apply the wax?
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It's my favorite 'nuba wax. The included applicators should be thrown away or used for something besides apply wax. It goes on too thick with them. I used a gold Meguiar's wax pad and it made application 10x easier, first time doing that. The other two times I used it I used the included pad.

And I didn't. Todd mentioned how in about 2 hours over 80% of it had bonded and could be topped if one was pressed for time. But so far, no issues.
 
could you post a picture of the gold megs wax pad youre talkinga bout because I think I have two of them, just the generic megs foam hand pads?
 
I'm planning to remove my dealer swirls this weekend.

Hope it works out well because my plan is to use:

Wolfgang Swirl Remover -> WolfGang Finishing Glaze -> WolfGang Sealant

The product page for the glaze specifically talks about topping the glaze with their sealant.
 
brentech said:
I'm planning to remove my dealer swirls this weekend.

Hope it works out well because my plan is to use:

Wolfgang Swirl Remover -> WolfGang Finishing Glaze -> WolfGang Sealant

The product page for the glaze specifically talks about topping the glaze with their sealant.
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Yeah, but...THAT glaze is really a polish, not a glaze like is being discussed in this thread...
 
Oh, I see. I guess my case is closed then. :xyxthumbs:
 
brentech said:
Oh, I see. I guess my case is closed then. :xyxthumbs:
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Yeah, sometimes the terms are confusing...like the "polishes" that are really LSP's (Zaino and Duragloss...hmmm), and the "glazes" that are really polishes (in the case of the Wolfgang).
 
SON1C said:
could you post a picture of the gold megs wax pad youre talkinga bout because I think I have two of them, just the generic megs foam hand pads?
Click to expand...

Yeah, the generic ones. The applicator that comes with AGHD is just...bad. There's no other way to put it, it's just bad.
 
forrest@mothers said:
Glazes can do more than fill minor defects.

They can add depth and a wet-look. We position our glaze as the second step of a three step system. The difference is easy to see on a dark color; not so much on a lighter color.
Click to expand...
I concur. (in my best Leonardo Dicaprio voice)
 
I've been topping glazes with sealant (mostly Zaino Z2) and then Wax for quite some time and I've always had fantastic results.

Sealant adds glossiness and duration while carnauba wax gives depth to your colour and wet look
 
So, is the consensus that some glazes will work in tandem with waxes and sealants? I always assumed the oils and possibly the fillers in glazes would cause bonding issues and shorten the longevity of the LSP.
Is the consensus also that if I use a glaze that I probably will see a difference on a darker colored vehicle but probably not on a lighter colored one?
It still seems to me that there are many here that don't use glazes. Why is that?
 
Capa1970 said:
So, is the consensus that some glazes will work in tandem with waxes and sealants? I always assumed the oils and possibly the fillers in glazes would cause bonding issues and shorten the longevity of the LSP.
Is the consensus also that if I use a glaze that I probably will see a difference on a darker colored vehicle but probably not on a lighter colored one?
It still seems to me that there are many here that don't use glazes. Why is that?
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1. Not everyone can see the difference between a glazed car vs a non glazed car. Why put in the effort to do something you won't see?

2. There has been debate on compatibilty issues between the more oily glazes vs non oily glazes. If one knows there will be bonding issues between their sealant of choice and the glaze, then they will forgo the sealant.

3. It's an extra step, and going back to #1, why put the extra step in if it's unnecessary.

Now, having said that, the filling aspect of a glaze can be quite handy for the DD, since it fills enough swirls to make the paint look like it's polished all the time. I may or may not glaze every time, but it's nice to know I have the ability to without sacrificing durability in my sealants or waxes based on the glaze I use.
 
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