Can I Do Much More With This Single Stage?

William D.

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Hi all,

About a month ago, I bought a 1979 Lincoln Continental as a project.


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As you can see, the paint was the least of this car's problems, however, most of which have been worked out. Some minor body work and a top are all that's needed now to make it a presentable "driver".

My question lies with the paint. It was originally a medium grey, which was repainted sometime in the 80's in this single stage silver. I know ultimately a repaint will be required, as it's worn off the roof and hood in a couple areas, but the sides were still there.

So far, I've clayed it (ha!) used Meguiars #7 on it, followed by some 3M Super Duty Compound and a yellow Lake Country pad on my Griot's DA, then a few orange pads and Optimum Compound II to bring it to this point:

IMG_2065.jpg

IMG_2067.jpg



The reflection is fantastic in shots like these, and the metallic flakes just "pop" under the lights, but my issue is, the whole side looks like it has a "haze" on it. The reflections are really muddy looking, you can see in this night photo, it's not really a clear reflection of the lights, just a broad shiny area. I've previously used OCII and a orange pad on the Town Car in my avatar photo, and it made the paint look factory fresh without the need for a further finishing product, which is why I was a bit surprised by the haziness I see.

IMG_2087.jpg



I know it's silver, so it won't ever look as "deep" as gloss black, but I think there's a bit more potential left in the shine, what would you all recommend I try to improve it?

IMG_2090.jpg
 
That is a cool car. And a really long car! Less cut pad, less cut polish, both together?? Or, maybe, what you have is all you will get out of it. Tape off a couple sections and play with some different combos.
 
The thing is, the car has sat outside in the sun since 1999. The paint came back shockingly well considering, but it's not 100%.

I'm just trying to get it as nice as reasonably possible for the time being, then a repaint down the road is a possibility.
 
Im with Eagle^. Sounds to me like you just need to go that extra step and start polishing the paint?
 
Four Star Ultimate Paint Protection looks fantastic on any color, and will amp-up the gloss. I have a silver vehicle, and four star leaves the best shine of all the products I've tried.
So far I've tried: Dodo Supernatural, BFWD w/ BlackIce, JetSeal, Collinite 915, Klasse sealant, etc.
The only competetor to 4* in my arsenal in Liquid Souveran w/ a dose of Polycharger.
I'de really like to know if I can get more gloss than 4* provides from a coating, but it will be awhile. I have too many sealants to go thru.
 
As others have said, you need to finish up with a lighter polish/pad combo. It may be your other town car responded better to the same combo because it's BC/CC and the paint is harder.

Holy cow that thing is long! I didn't realize downsizing hadn't hit that car yet in '79. As I recall they went completely the other way within a few years, as of course most of the US cars did by '85 in anticipation of $4/gal gas. That's why all the cars are so small now since we had $4/gal not long ago...huh?

How long is it, anyway? I'm not even sure that would fit in my garage.
 
Holy battleship Batman...LOL!

nice project you got there. Here is a great read from Mike P. on SS paint.

The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints




How many treatments of megs#7 did you use?


You used a heavy compound first 3m Super duty (rocks in bottle) then followed up with another compound........did I read that right?

You can improve the gloss using a polish to remove the haze.......then put on your favorite lsp to make it pop.
 
I agree with the others. You need to use a polish now and test should remove the haze.

I used to work with a guy that had a town car as a summer cruiser. It was almost twice the length of my VW Golf I was driving at the time.
 
As others have said, you need to finish up with a lighter polish/pad combo. It may be your other town car responded better to the same combo because it's BC/CC and the paint is harder.

Holy cow that thing is long! I didn't realize downsizing hadn't hit that car yet in '79. As I recall they went completely the other way within a few years, as of course most of the US cars did by '85 in anticipation of $4/gal gas. That's why all the cars are so small now since we had $4/gal not long ago...huh?

How long is it, anyway? I'm not even sure that would fit in my garage.

What color/grade of pad is recommended, white? I think I have a few of them somewhere, along with some Optimum Polish II.

1979 was the final year for the full size car. Ford held out longer than the rest, but by 1980, it was inevitable. The Town Car was still big from 1980-onwards, but it never had the imposing side the older ones did.

It is 234" long.

Holy battleship Batman...LOL!

nice project you got there. Here is a great read from Mike P. on SS paint.http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...w-car-finish-antique-single-stage-paints.html


How many treatments of megs#7 did you use?


You used a heavy compound first 3m Super duty (rocks in bottle) then followed up with another compound........did I read that right?

You can improve the gloss using a polish to remove the haze.......then put on your favorite lsp to make it pop.

Yes, I've read that article multiple times, it's really a great resource. I followed his instructions on this one, however with the paint just having sit in the sun for *so* long, the results weren't the same. I did it three times, the third time I didn't notice a real improvement in the paint, so I let it be after that.

I went with 3M Super Duty because none of the other compounds I had really seemed to cut into it well. It did a great job on the sides, as shown. The OCII Compound has diminishing abrasives in it. It's less aggressive than the 3M, and the abrasives get finer as they break down, making it a bit more ideal.

Four Star Ultimate Paint Protection looks fantastic on any color, and will amp-up the gloss. I have a silver vehicle, and four star leaves the best shine of all the products I've tried.
So far I've tried: Dodo Supernatural, BFWD w/ BlackIce, JetSeal, Collinite 915, Klasse sealant, etc.
The only competetor to 4* in my arsenal in Liquid Souveran w/ a dose of Polycharger.
I'de really like to know if I can get more gloss than 4* provides from a coating, but it will be awhile. I have too many sealants to go thru.

I'll have to look into that, thanks!
 
I thought you might find this interesting

There is a whole series on restoration of a similar Lincoln

This is the 1st installment

[ame="http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Bkf_CYQmNbs"]Restoring a Classic: Diamond in the Rough Episode 4 - YouTube[/video]
 
This is how it currently sits.

The haze annoys me, but I don't think, short of possibly wetsanding and doing it all over again, it will get any better. It's still a massive improvement from how it looked after I washed all the mildew and dirt off (photo #2)

Ultimately it will require a repaint, as there is some rust through on the other side that will require some body/metal work, as well as some minor work on this side.

I think I'm going to two-tone it as it appears here. Lighter silver metallic in the center with a silver top, and a medium silver metallic on the sides.


Can anyone recommend something else to try? It is a single stage paint.
 
What color/grade of pad is recommended, white? I think I have a few of them somewhere, along with some Optimum Polish II.

It is 234" long.

Why don't you try the Optimum Polish on a white pad on a test spot and see what happens?

My garage is only 240" deep, so it would be quite a trick regularly pulling that car in far enough to close the door without hitting the wall...not to mention trying to close the door from the inside with only 3-6" between the car and the door. Obviously people did it in the day, though.
 
I've had great success using Optimum Poli-Seal to clean and restore heavily oxidised single-stage paint.

Poli-Seal is an excellent low cut paint cleaner. I added both OHC and OHP to the pad on different panels to get desired results. I lost the photos here at AGO some time ago.

Thanks for the update!
 
Yes, I've read that article multiple times, it's really a great resource. I followed his instructions on this one, however with the paint just having sit in the sun for *so* long, the results weren't the same.

I did it three times, the third time I didn't notice a real improvement in the paint, so I let it be after that.


Just to note... single stage metallic paints are the hardest type of paint to restore. Single stage NON-metallic paints are the easiest to restore. The issue is the flake in old school paints is actual aluminum as in the metal and since each side of the flake is surrounded by paint you cannot polish the oxidation off the aluminum flakes.

That said... I'm impressed with the progress you've made so far.



I went with 3M Super Duty because none of the other compounds I had really seemed to cut into it well. It did a great job on the sides, as shown.

The Super Duty cuts fast because it's super aggressive. The sides came out better than the horizontal surfaces, which is normal because the horizontal surfaces take the majority of the brunt from the sun baking the paint and water (rain) dwelling on the surface over time.

In my how-to book The Complete Guide to a Show Car Shine there's a section called Paint Condition Categories from pages 37 to 39 and the paint on this car falls into categories #7, #9 and #12. #12 is Past the Point of No Return. #9 is Unstable and #7 is Extreme Oxidation.

One category is one thing but to fall into three very extreme categories and the potential to recover is dramatically reduced.


Here's something I've learned about old school single stage paints and that is they react to buffing like gel-coat surfaces and that is for some reason they like higher speeds, coarser pads and typically more aggressive products.

For example a wool pad on a rotary buffer and a good compound or polish can create an incredible shiny surface to both gel-coat and single stage lacquer and enamel only with it you create holograms.

My guess is that a course aggressive foam pad like a Blue 6.5" Hybrid plus a medium cut polish on a tool like the Flex 3401 on high speed with a fast arm speed should create a high gloss surface without inflicting holograms. Then seal afterwards with a wax or sealant.

Another option would be any light cutting foam pad on any type of DA polisher and a one-step medium to light cut cleaner/wax. This combo and a fast arm speed should amp up the surface gloss. Something like Meguiar's #6 or Pinnacle XMT 360, both are light cleaner/waxes. Meguiar's #20 is also a light cleaning cleaner/wax.

Some medium cut cleaner/waxes would be Uber AIO, Menzerna 3 in 1, Meguiar's M66 or D151.

Here's some info on cleaner/waxes....


How to choose a one-step cleaner/wax


Nice save.

:xyxthumbs:
 
Give the Optimum Polish a try, the liquid form.
You can work it forever and a day, use it after your first step.
It should remove the haze and also bring it to a high shine if you take your time.
Works great on my single stage, solid black Toyota RAV4.
 
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