Can I get a lil Flex Polisher help???

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Emile

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Hi guys,

My Flex XC 3401 and my pads and a few bottles of polish came yesterday. I am polishing my Subi as we speak but the Flex is over-powering me.

I can only comfortably polish at speed 3. If I turn it up to 4, 5, or 6 the polisher keeps walking away from me...it's like it wants to take off and go polish some other people's cars.

I am using the new LC Hydro Tech 6.5" Tangerine Pad with my Menzerna 106FA. Spraying a bit of QD onto the pad is helping with smoothness but every time there is a change in the curve of the panel, the polisher still tries to walk away.

106FA and the Tangerine Pad are being very forgiving. 90% of the light scratches are coming out after one hit with the Flex on speed 3 or 4 and if I were using my PC, I'd feel like I'm not working the product long enough but this combination is cutting great and finishing beautifully. I am guessing this is due to the power and speed of the Flex?

I am still polishing as we speak so any tips or advice will be read and taken in immediately. Thank you in advance to anyone who can help me out.

Thanks,
Emile
 
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Keep it flat. It will try to walk if it's a little off tilt.
 
Thanks loudog.

What speed dial setting should I be polishing at? On my PC7424, I can go at speed 5 without any complaints but with the Flex I am only comfortable at 3. =(
 
The flex has a good weight to it. Try letting the weight of the machine do the correcting. Give it a little pressure, but don't press. I use speed 5 for corrections.
 
That's the problem, lou. I was doing the vertical panels. I just did the whole left side (driver side) of the vehicle. It was hard to get smooth polishing down because I've never tried it on the horizontal panels. I had the weight of the machine in my arms and was trying to balance this puppy flat on the surface but it kept trying to pull which threw me off.

I'm gonna do the whole right side of the vehicle tomorrow and see how that works out. I need to do some research on the 7424XP and Griot's 6" Polisher because I'm not sure if this Flex is a keeper although I don't think I can return it at this point.
 
Emile said:
That's the problem, lou. I was doing the vertical panels. I just did the whole left side (driver side) of the vehicle. It was hard to get smooth polishing down because I've never tried it on the horizontal panels. I had the weight of the machine in my arms and was trying to balance this puppy flat on the surface but it kept trying to pull which threw me off.

I'm gonna do the whole right side of the vehicle tomorrow and see how that works out. I need to do some research on the 7424XP and Griot's 6" Polisher because I'm not sure if this Flex is a keeper although I don't think I can return it at this point.
Click to expand...

I'll take that flex of yours and give ya a GG polisher, :props: haha jk.

Like others, try keeping it flat, keep at a slow speed till you get confy with it then raise up the speed. Even at speed 2-3 you are at or above PC levels.
 
I had the same problem when I first got mine. You just have to learn the new buffer. Now I can hold it on vertical panels with 1 hand (very light polishing).
 
I run my Flex at 5.5 or so. I think there are several keys to using the Flex on vertical surfaces.

1) Consistent pressure on the front handle to keep the pad flat on the paint to keep it from walking. More on the front usually means less having to hold the rear section as firmly

2) Good body position that you can maintain the pressure on the front handle while polishing the section...cannot stretch your arms out like the PC unless you have great arm muscles. This may mean sitting on floor, stool, or standing as needed.

I really like the Flex trigger with lock button and easier to use speed dial.
 
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I also have wondered about that.

How do you hold it flat while applying only slight pressure when you're on a vertical panel?
 
Emile said:
I don't think I can return it at this point.
Click to expand...
:bash: :cry: LOL, sorry.

FWIW, This may be hard to explain, but it's what I do:

Say the handle with the trigger and speed dial is in your right hand and the bale handle is in your left hand.

Example 1- Holding the Flex horizontally working on a door panel (Trigger handle pointing right, bale handle pointing left).
I try to keep the pad flat on the surface, but when moving to the right put slightly more pressure on the bottom side of the pad. The rotation of the machine is counter clockwise so you will be pulling against the rotation of the pad. Then when you start your pass moving to the left switch the pressure to the topside and push against the rotation. Keeping a slight amount of pressure on the "against" side will (IMO) give you more control.

Example 2- Standing at the front drivers side wheel working on the hood (trigger handle pointing towards you, bale handle pointing away).
Same technique. When moving to the left put slightly more pressure on the bale handle side. Then, when moving right put slightly more pressure on the trigger handle side. Again this is always moving the machine against the direction of rotation.

Also I tend to use my whole body, instead of just my arms, to move each direction. It seems much easier to keep a consistent speed and pressure across any given pass this way. The same applies when sitting on a rolling stool. On a pass moving to the right I will start sitting so I am leaning to the left and pull with my body and arms to the right. Then push back to the left.

Any of this make sense? This is just what works for me, and the Flex is the only buffer I've really used

Now that I reread all that, I guess it didn't have to be that complicated. Just keep the pressure "against" the rotation and use your body to keep a consistent speed. :cheers:
 
It just takes getting used to. There is a learnig curve for everything. Like WYTANG said, just like him, I can use one hand to hold it now without issues(not for the whole job, my arm would fall off). I've noticed the flex acts differently with different paints. Sometimes you have to hold on for dear life. Others it is a piece of cake.

I agree with the above post about using your body. Also for side panels, I'll brace my right elbow(trigger arm) against my side for stability.
 
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loudog2 said:
It just takes getting used to. There is a learning curve for everything. Like WYSTANG said, just like him, I can use one hand to hold it now without issues(not for the whole job, my arm would fall off). I've noticed the flex acts differently with different paints. Sometimes you have to hold on for dear life. Others it is a piece of cake.
Click to expand...

+1. Yesterday my friend and I did a one step correction (XMT 360 topped w/ Souveran) on this Celica GT. It was of the "hold on for dear life" variety. But maybe it was because even after a double wash and clay the pads were dirty, brown, and sticky after just 1 panel. Is that just XMT 360? (first time use)

(pic is before we started)

S4200569.jpg
 
Thank you guys, I am going to try all the tips and methods stated above as I am about to polish the other side of the vehicle now. It definitely takes careful balancing of the machine and I'm going to keep going at speed 3 and try gently bringing the speed up as I get more and more used to it.

Seriously, thank you all for taking the time for the tips, I really appreciate this. I am definitely not returning the Flex because even at speed 3 it's still a power-house.
 
Simply put, I have the best results holding my Flex close to a 45 degree angle while polishing the side of a vehicle. That is, the bale handle end pointing at 10 o'clock and the trigger end pointing at 4 o'clock. I'm right handed, so you lefties would be at 2 and 8 o'clock.
 
VR8 said:
Simply put, I have the best results holding my Flex close to a 45 degree angle while polishing the side of a vehicle. That is, the bale handle end pointing at 10 o'clock and the trigger end pointing at 4 o'clock. I'm right handed, so you lefties would be at 2 and 8 o'clock.
Click to expand...
That's basically where it is for me, with my right arm locked at my side.
 
Thanks for the tips guys, I did the other side of the vehicle today trying out everything that everybody suggested. Now I just have to do the roof, the hood, the front, and the rear and then I'll be done! I'll do the front and the rear with my PC7424 w/4" Pads.

When I sprayed a lot of QD on the pad with 106FA and held the unit sideways, it made things a lot smoother. I think I'm also just getting more used to it...I was able to polish comfortably up to speed 5 today!

Now I just have to do the rest of the vehicle but the hood, roof, and trunk lid will require a more aggressive pad and polish combo in order to get rid of the dealer-installed water spots. I'm glad I only need to use the Flex on the "fun" surfaces now... I really hate doing vertical panels regardless of the machine. This will be a great opportunity to work on my technique.
 
Everyones comments are true.. keeping it real flat is the key and using the machines own weight with a nice hold on the bale handle is the best to keep the flex from walking on you. But i guess with practice it gets easier. I remember the first time i used mine, the power of the flex was really overwhelming. But i've since gotten used to it and i think the correcting power this baby has is just incredible..
Good luck and don't give up..
 
Matt said:
I also have wondered about that.

How do you hold it flat while applying only slight pressure when you're on a vertical panel?
Click to expand...

It is a matter of balancing. Have you ever used a large industrial floor polisher? If so, the Flex is just a small version but behaves exactly the same. Once you learn the balance and feel you can use the Flex with one hand on flat horizontal surfaces.

It "walks" or "takes off" when the pressure leaves the center of the pad and goes to the out side. The bale handle is used more for controlling the balance point - you don't apply pressure to the bale only to increase pressure for paint correction - apply even downward pressure to the bale and the handle to evenly increase centered pressure.

The only exception to this is to use the far outer edge (last inch) by titling a lot but using very little pressure, not much more than the weight of the unit, but your hands/arms need to maintain the control (rather than using balance for control).

FOR ORIENTATION REFERENCE ONLY: the bale handle is straight in front of you, handle pointing toward you. The pad rotates counter clockwise.

> Pressure centered, the buffer stays stationary
> Load (tilt) to the front (bale handle slightly down) and the buffer moves to the right.
> Load to the back (handle slightly down) and the buffer moves to the left.

The buffer will move 90 degrees clockwise to the loaded edge, regardless of the actual bale/handle orientation! If you are holding the buffer bale left / handle right and tilt on the left (bale titling down) the buffer will move forward, etc.

Same on verticle surfaces. Use the bale and handle to control balancing to the center of the pad.

It doesn't take much loading off center to make the buffer move. Once you get the feel it becomes easy to control.

Don't fight it, don't use too much pressure. If you are fighting the buffer you haven't learned to balance it. Let the speed of the machine do the work and keep the RPMs lower than you would use with the PC (I mostly run "2" to apply sealant, 3.5 to 4.5 for polishes).

Regards,
GEWB
 
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