Can this be repaired??(Clearcoat drip etc.)

sohail99

sohail99

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Hey guys!

I had gotten the right side of my car repainted a few days back and somehow the painter left some excess paint on the rear bumper and there was a clearcoat drip that dried!

Now, the prob is, the bodyshop is plainly refusing to have caused that! But I know for certain that it wasn't there before I gave it to them(I literally detail my car every 2-3 days and I know better about its paint condition than anyone else!!)

Anyways, it was useless talking to them so I came back! (Now they quoted $144 for the rear bumper repaint, which was their mistake to begin with!!:mad:)

Also the 'hack finish destroyer' there, is like a small baby with a rotay polisher and super contaminated wool pad (you can guess the result!!!.... Though my front bumper was totally ok, the hack detailer burned the paint from numerous places there too(which they agreed to repaint at their own expense, thank god!!)

Anyways, here's the (finish) damage on the rear bumper!

Excess_clear_-1.JPG


Are those pinholes on the upper-left side??


Excess_clear_-3.JPG



I was wondering how could I go about correcting it myself!?

I was thinking of maybe wetsanding it with a 2000 grit paper to level out the area? and then compound it?

(But the main reason they could've done this in the first place could be that, the rotary guy burned the clear and then did a shoddy cover up!!)

^This is the reason thats holding me back from wetsanding as I can re-expose the base coat:confused:

I seriously wanna put the rotary at full speed to the guy's face and show him what it feels like to burn paint!!:bat:

Anyways, any advise on how to go about will be greatly appreciated!!:dblthumb2:

Thanks!
 
Wow... I see a number of problems with that body work and paint job that go well beyond just a simple run.

1) There are a ton of pinholes on the edge of that panel, which are either from solvent pop (meaning the panel wasn't properly prepped/cleaned before painting) or are pinholes in whatever body filler or primer are under there. Can't fix those without refinishing the area again.

2) From the looks of the pic, that run isn't just a "run in the clear" that would be easy to block out. It looks more like it's underneath the clear -- either in the base coat or in whatever is under the base coat (again, filler and/or primer)

I would take it back to them again and insist that they repair what is clearly the result of hack bodywork. Actually the more I look at the pics, it doesn't even appear that they got uniform or complete coverage with the base color -- I see primer through the pinholes at the curved panel edge.
 
IMO, you have no way to fix that other then block standing the finish off amd reading it. The body shop got you on that one. I would not let them fix any of it.
 
Whoa!! I just cant understand why did they get paint there!!

Rear bumper had a few paint chips in that area that were not even touched!! and I get excess paint all around!? :confused:

(probably, they over-blended the paint with the bumper + I've now got whole lot of orange peel on the right side of the rear bumper again,
which clearly shows it was their handiwork but those idiots just wont accept that they did it!! :bash:)

So should I try sanding or take it to another body shop?
 
IMO, that's beyond repair. It would be easier to just sand it all down, and re-spray. If you go trying to sand that down, it's gonna be tough not to sand through the surrounding area. Plus, if you go messing with it...they will definitely refuse to re-paint.

I would go back and demand they fix that horrible body work. That is clearly their fault. The pin holes are due to bad prep work. They either didn't clean correctly, got something mixed in the paint, or sprayed too much too soon. Those runs are really thick! ha

Man, that is some really bad work. If they don't re-paint that panel...that is one unprofessional place you found there. They know they screwed up. But most the time body shops will shrug you off in hopes you just don't come back. Stay on them!
 
Oh! I'm gonna stay em alright!!!

They actually think they're the best bodyshop! lol( I was driven to em as they do loads of exotics and restore old cars as well!)

I'll talk to them properly this time, in 'bashing' mode! :D
 
Wow i paint cars and always do my best to leave a flawless finish... This is just absurd what people do to the cars!!!! But to be honest with you, iv worked in a bodyshop and what the owners pay the actual painters sometimes is just so unbeliavable. The owner onced payed the painter $90 bucks to repaint a whole side of the car. So somtimes painters do hack work because of what they are getting paid for... But anyways, onto how to fix the runs. From my personal experiance and how
Ive seen is THE BEST method to fix a run is this way. You get some glazing putty, the one used as a filler when doing body work. Mix some up and apply it over the run. Now you might think this is silly but applying it over the run WILL help you not cut into the spots around the run that are not high as the run. So once you start sanding the putty with you 1000 grit the high spot(being the run) is going to start getting cut by the sand paper. Proceed doing this until the runs are completely gone, sand flat to avoid cutting into other areas. Again, the putty you apply is there to protect the surrouding area from getting sanded because you might cut into the paint. Once the run is gone move up to 1500 and sand until the putty is gone, it will NOT adhere to you paint because it has NOTHING to adhere to, so if you sand it its going to come completely off! Once its all off, sand the area with 2000 grit paper and buff it! And you should have great results! Now, if the run is the actual paint and not the clear, then it has to get repainted. Let me know if you have any questions! Id be more than happy to help! :)
 
I saw kristopher say its going to be tough not to cut into the surrounding area! BINGO! thats why applying putty is going to prevent this! :)
 
93fox said:
Wow i paint cars and always do my best to leave a flawless finish... This is just absurd what people do to the cars!!!! But to be honest with you, iv worked in a bodyshop and what the owners pay the actual painters sometimes is just so unbeliavable. The owner onced payed the painter $90 bucks to repaint a whole side of the car. So somtimes painters do hack work because of what they are getting paid for... But anyways, onto how to fix the runs. From my personal experiance and how
Ive seen is THE BEST method to fix a run is this way. You get some glazing putty, the one used as a filler when doing body work. Mix some up and apply it over the run. Now you might think this is silly but applying it over the run WILL help you not cut into the spots around the run that are not high as the run. So once you start sanding the putty with you 1000 grit the high spot(being the run) is going to start getting cut by the sand paper. Proceed doing this until the runs are completely gone, sand flat to avoid cutting into other areas. Again, the putty you apply is there to protect the surrouding area from getting sanded because you might cut into the paint. Once the run is gone move up to 1500 and sand until the putty is gone, it will NOT adhere to you paint because it has NOTHING to adhere to, so if you sand it its going to come completely off! Once its all off, sand the area with 2000 grit paper and buff it! And you should have great results! Now, if the run is the actual paint and not the clear, then it has to get repainted. Let me know if you have any questions! Id be more than happy to help! :)
Click to expand...

Good tip. I never thought of that. :props:
 
^Wow!! Thats seriously a great tip!! I'll keep that in mind while sanding thin areas etc.! :xyxthumbs:

btw I agree some ppl pay less to the painters but I never bargain to any of the bodyshops! I got the whole right side of my car(hatchback - Front fender, front door, rear door and rear quarterpanel) for which I paid $688 (The same amount that I was quoted after inspection of the damage)

And since I've seen some of their work(except the horrendous swirls, the paint underneath was generally ok!) and they assured me of perfection which I always desire!

What I got was hack work!! :bash:

I'll ask them one final time!

btw is blending, absolutely necessary?? He was like, he'll paint my front bumper and blend it with other panels!! My bonnet is factory paint and I don't wanna mess it up! How can I make him understand?
 
I know how you feel man...I had my GT500 spoiler painted by a body shop..He told me it was going to be $200..More then I wanted to pay for a simple spoiler paint job. So I go to get it that day and after it was finished someone bumped into it and chipped it. Well wasnt a horrible so he said I can just take it for free..at first I thought ok cool I got it for free for a small chip in it..my Dr Colorchip stuff will take care of most of this issue and wont stick out very much...Well once I get home and inspect the spoiler I would have been very mad if I woulda had to pay 50bucks for it..There are sanding marks still in the paint because they didnt use a fine enough sandpaper to finish it off and now it shows in the paint..on the one edge you can see there is some overspray that is under the clear..PURE garbage job..I cleaned it up best I can and its not as bad now but the hack job they did was just down right awful. Especially since he was trying to charge me $200 at first to have it painted..I would expect for that much money the finish would be perfect.
 
sohail99 said:
^Wow!! Thats seriously a great tip!! I'll keep that in mind while sanding thin areas etc.! :xyxthumbs:

btw I agree some ppl pay less to the painters but I never bargain to any of the bodyshops! I got the whole right side of my car(hatchback - Front fender, front door, rear door and rear quarterpanel) for which I paid $688 (The same amount that I was quoted after inspection of the damage)

And since I've seen some of their work(except the horrendous swirls, the paint underneath was generally ok!) and they assured me of perfection which I always desire!

What I got was hack work!! :bash:

I'll ask them one final time!

btw is blending, absolutely necessary?? He was like, he'll paint my front bumper and blend it with other panels!! My bonnet is factory paint and I don't wanna mess it up! How can I make him understand?
Click to expand...

Blending is necessary on certain paints. it is done to achieve a uniform color. for example, if your car has paint that needs to get blended the paint must be stretched out into other panels to make it look even, because if they dont, you WILL see the difference in the paint. lets say the just spray the bumper, once its done when you look at the fender then onto the bumper you will see a big difference in colors because its more concentrated in one are than in the other. so thats why blending is done, to stretch out the paint into other panels so you wont see the difference in colors. but ive seen people blend just bumpers. i dont see why they would go out all the way into the the fenders. personally, if i was you, i would ask for my money back. mainly because if they do take it in again they are going to do even more of a hack work that is already done. trust me, body shops hate redoing something that they did already. so if you can get your money back, go to google and find a good body shop! read reviews! walk into the body shops and ask to see some of the work that is being done. where i used to work at they had all sorts of exotic cars as well, but once i started working there it was crazy what they would do! try to get your money back or what you cant, just dont let them touch it again because they will do more of a hack work.
 
^Thanks a lot!!! :D

btw my front bumper was not to be painted. But the rotary guy burned the paint from edges, thats why I told em to repaint it and they agreed!

This time, I just told them not to wetsand or even get a buffer even within 1m of my car's paint!!!

Also, the rear bumper wasn't to be painted too, but somehow they got drip there, I have no idea, how and why!? :confused:

btw that bodyshop is considered the best, where I live!! I think, maybe all other customers who have written reviews have no idea how a paint should look!?
 
sohail99 said:
^Thanks a lot!!! :D

btw my front bumper was not to be painted. But the rotary guy burned the paint from edges, thats why I told em to repaint it and they agreed!

This time, I just told them not to wetsand or even get a buffer even within 1m of my car's paint!!!

Also, the rear bumper wasn't to be painted too, but somehow they got drip there, I have no idea, how and why!? :confused:

btw that bodyshop is considered the best, where I live!! I think, maybe all other customers who have written reviews have no idea how a paint should look!?
Click to expand...

If i was you id still try to poke em about the run in the rear bumbper. Tell them that you detail cars and that you are no fool. Try to do your best, there has to be something you can get out of it. Its really unacceptable for them to have done that, by the way, did it just go in for a repaint or was bodywork also involved?
 
Where are you from sohail99? Totally sloppy job. Amazing that they actually let it go out the door that way. If a shop knows how to tint color right, they won't need to blend the fenders/hood. They don't match from the factory' and and good painter should actually be able to match it better than it was originally.
 
93fox said:
If i was you id still try to poke em about the run in the rear bumbper. Tell them that you detail cars and that you are no fool. Try to do your best, there has to be something you can get out of it. Its really unacceptable for them to have done that, by the way, did it just go in for a repaint or was bodywork also involved?
Click to expand...

It had some bodywork on all four panels(right side) and then repaint.(How it happened)

I told em that I detail cars and the drip was painting disaster that they caused!!

But all they do is, try and put it on as other bodyshop's fault!!! I never even got that part repainted!! Anyways, I had a convo with the bodyshop owner's son and as usual, ego problems!! :mad:

I'll talk to his dad about the prob!
 
I tried everything and they're plainly denying having caused it!!

They were blaming the previous bodyshop that did a spot repair on the rear bumper!

I was at that bodyshop during all the spot repairs and I even took a video and after shots then, that I dug up and showed it to them. But he was like "This doesn't show anything!!"

Actually the service center then had caused a few scratches and I forced them to spot repair the area and they did a pretty good job!(This was last year)

Check it out -

The scratch caused by the service center and then tried to cover it up! :mad:

scratch2.JPG




After the spot repair





Do you see any drip there?

I sure cant!

And this was the last time it'd been to a bodyshop!!

Now they're agreeing to do it(but charging me, of course) and I'm kinda skeptical to give it to them!! Feed back please

Please advise as to how I should proceed! :surrender: :cry:
 
Need some advise please! Car is going to bodyshop today!

btw is there a different way to lay down metallic paint (so that the metallic flakes show?)

And any tips to match paint on urethane bumpers to metal panels without blending? :confused:
 
sohail99 said:
Need some advise please! Car is going to bodyshop today!

btw is there a different way to lay down metallic paint (so that the metallic flakes show?)

And any tips to match paint on urethane bumpers to metal panels without blending? :confused:
Click to expand...

Blending is mostly required with metallics and pearls. Because only
Doing the bumper on its own will show the differance in metallics. Thats why they stretch it out a little further to match the metallics in the other panels to the bumper.
 
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