Can you recommend a medium cut polish for production detailing?

david b

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Hi guys,

I'm doing more production detailing and am in need of a dedicated, medium-cut polish that removes most swirls/scratches from dd's but finishes out LSP ready? Does that magic in a bottle even exist? Here's the reason - my basic exterior package is an AIO(currently using HD Speed and McKee's 360) but some folks are wanting to upgrade to a 2-step - 2 step meaning a dedicated polish and then a machine-applied wax/sealant. What do you recommend for that medium-cut polish that finishes out LSP ready?
Thanks in advance,
David
 
Problem is it's gonna vary on paint and pad type. I could say Wolfgang TSR on a microfiber pad but probably would haze like crazy on a soft Toyota Prius it look great on a Chevy.


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I've Menzerna PF2500 for that purpose a lot. I think it's called MC2500 now.

These days I'm using Meguiar's M02 Fine-Cut Cleaner or M86.

I prefer to pair them with a Lake Country Tangerine Hydrotech pad. I'm going to do some experimenting with M205, or M86 on the Cyan pad though.

If I'm using the Rupes, the yellow microfiber pad, and Keramik Gloss gel is what I use.
 
I've Menzerna PF2500 for that purpose a lot. I think it's called MC2500 now.

These days I'm using Meguiar's M02 Fine-Cut Cleaner or M86.

I prefer to pair them with a Lake Country Tangerine Hydrotech pad. I'm going to do some experimenting with M205, or M86 on the Cyan pad though.

If I'm using the Rupes, the yellow microfiber pad, and Keramik Gloss gel is what I use.

PF2500 is now MC2500..they changed it again? You have got to be kidding!!
 
Even FG400 or Shine Supply Chop Top can finish out LSP ready on some paints. Keep a few on hand. This is why a Test Spot is very important. I can't recall how many times I have dialed in the right compound/pad combo to finish out LSP ready, where I had no expectation of it. Sometimes the stars just align.
 
I've Menzerna PF2500 for that purpose a lot. I think it's called MC2500 now.

These days I'm using Meguiar's M02 Fine-Cut Cleaner or M86.

I prefer to pair them with a Lake Country Tangerine Hydrotech pad. I'm going to do some experimenting with M205, or M86 on the Cyan pad though.

If I'm using the Rupes, the yellow microfiber pad, and Keramik Gloss gel is what I use.
Thanks for the correction-- yep, MC2500.
Menzerna Medium Cut Polish 2500, one step polish, swirl remover, finishing polish, car polish, german car polish, menzerna polishing compounds, power
 
PF2500 is now MC2500..they changed it again? You have got to be kidding!!

I love the label system they had before. The new ones don't have that "utilitarian" look to them. The have those "edgy", modern hues on the color scheme, and are just unpleasant to look at.

Fortunately, they say the product is still the same awesome product it was before. I've pretty much moved back to Meguiar's, and on to Rupes. Heck, the Rupes polishes work great on the PC too!
 
Problem is it's gonna vary on paint and pad type. I could say Wolfgang TSR on a microfiber pad but probably would haze like crazy on a soft Toyota Prius it look great on a Chevy.


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You are dead on!




Is this stuff anything like Sonax 04-06? I bought some 04-06 and didn't like it at all. Clogs pads easily and very hard to clean out of pads. It had to be worked forever and was harder to wipe off than I thought. I didn't use very much.
 
Is this stuff anything like Sonax 04-06? I bought some 04-06 and didn't like it at all. Clogs pads easily and very hard to clean out of pads. It had to be worked forever and was harder to wipe off than I thought. I didn't use very much.

I have no idea. It came to mind with the op's original question. Seems to get some good praises in that thread from those that attended that class.

So you were holding out on me with this information about 04-06 when I asked you on FB in your sale thread lol. Just kidding.
 
Maybe a way to go is to have two polishes, one for softer paint and the other for harder paint. FG400 would be great for harder paint while something like Essence or m205 would do great on softer paint. The other thing to is don't be afraid to mix a polish with a certain amount of distilled water to lessen haze and what not, or to finish better. Like with m205 and a microfiber cutting pad, spraying the pad with some water mid way through will let you finish off a lot better. I've even sprayed water onto the section I'm polishing too midway through and then going back to finish off the panel. Two polishes for two different hardness of paint might be a lot better than trying to find one polish to suit everything.
 
WG Uber Compound finishes off nice enough to go straight to LSP. This was with a rotary, so of course I did go over it again with a DA next.I already hit the other areas in the pic, working towards the back of the car.

I know it's a "compound", but these days, most have diminishing abrasives, so it's not like compounds used to be where you HAD to finish with a finer polish.

View attachment 55984
 
m205 would do great on softer paint. The other thing to is don't be afraid to mix a polish with a certain amount of distilled water to lessen haze and what not, or to finish better.
M205 out of the bottle wouldn't be my first choice for soft paint. Diluting it heavily with water on a long throw DA and it'll finish much better.
 
The other thing to is don't be afraid to mix a polish with a certain amount of distilled water to lessen haze and what not, or to finish better. Like with m205 and a microfiber cutting pad, spraying the pad with some water mid way through will let you finish off a lot better. I've even sprayed water onto the section I'm polishing too midway through and then going back to finish off the panel. Two polishes for two different hardness of paint might be a lot better than trying to find one polish to suit everything.

M205 out of the bottle wouldn't be my first choice for soft paint. Diluting it heavily with water on a long throw DA and it'll finish much better.

Are you guys saying that I could get LSP ready ( at least by production detailing standards) by adding distilled water to M205 and MF cutting pad on a long throw DA?
 




Are you guys saying that I could get LSP ready ( at least by production detailing standards) by adding distilled water to M205 and MF cutting pad on a long throw DA?
The M205/water mix is a last resort for ultra soft black paint. A lot of paint systems will finish LSP ready with a quality finishing polish. For medium-hard paint, I can finish no problem with M205. For soft paint, especially soft black, I use another finishing polish not sold by AG(it's similar to CarPro Essence).
 




Are you guys saying that I could get LSP ready ( at least by production detailing standards) by adding distilled water to M205 and MF cutting pad on a long throw DA?

I honestly think enhancing the finishing ability of m205 by watering down the polish is completely unnecessary by production detailing standards. I think you're best luck would be with something like m100 and a light cutting/heavy polishing foam pad since foam does not necessarily require a compressor to blow out the residue after ever section pass. Like others mention Fg400 is also a great option. Either of those compounds can finish down fantastic 90% of the time. Approx. 10% of the time (soft black paint) I would recommend HD Polish+ and a dense heavy polishing/light cutting foam pad. I really like the uro-cell tangerine. The water/m205 method is great advice for finishing down perfect but that wouldn't be cost effective or practical for your situation.
 
The M205/water mix is a last resort for ultra soft black paint. A lot of paint systems will finish LSP ready with a quality finishing polish. For medium-hard paint, I can finish no problem with M205. For soft paint, especially soft black, I use another finishing polish not sold by AG(it's similar to CarPro Essence).

what he said
 
WRAPT and mwoywod - thanks for the clarification. now I understand when I would use this..
 
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