Cant get this stuff out of my bumper

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bmartin07

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I have a black Charger and my front bumper looks like this...

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Any advise on getting this out(Im not talking about the water spots) Some of that other stuff if i pick at it with my nail you can not feel it and there is some that i can tell the paint is slightly chipped. I have the porter cable 7424xp and so far have tried m105, ulitimate compound, scratch x 2.0 with yellow and orange pads with speed on 6 and none of these products cut it. Is there something i am doing wrong? (im new to pc, just got it the other day). Thanks!!
 
Yea point of no return unless you get it "repainted". I know you were not trying to hear that.
 
No def did not want to hear that but atleast your honest and i can stop waisting my time.
 
would it be possible to hide them a little bit? Its def not a show car by any means and i dont need it in prestine condition but would like for it to not look that horrible esp when the rest of the car looks stunning
 
Fractures are rather deep. Any polish or wax with fillers will stand out on black paint as these will fill in the etchings. LSP with a clear product like Optimum Opti-Seal or the like.

Bumper resprays are relatively affordable.
 
if you are new to machine polishing, i would take it to a local detailer, and ask him if he can do anything for it, ask for a test spot. if he can correct it (although it may take off quite a bit of paint), you would end up paying a bit less than getting it repainted.
 
Go to wal-mart and grab a gallon of this Windshield Washer Fluids | Car Care | Products | Prestone®

Pour it into a 32 ounce spray bottle and spray it on those areas, keep spraying it on to keep everything wet for about 5 minutes. Do this right before you wash your car next.

It looks to me like those are bug guts deposits and not so much etchings. Try this and see where it gets you, or you can spend 10 times the money and get a gallon of Bug Squash to accomplish the exact same goal. Both are formulated with being sprayed over automotive paint part of the formulation plans.



Once you've done this, perhaps there will still be some etchings that will be needing buffed out.

EDIT: OOPS seem to have overlooked this part of your post.

so far have tried m105, ulitimate compound, scratch x 2.0 with yellow and orange pads with speed on 6 and none of these products cut it. Is there something i am doing wrong? (im new to pc, just got it the other day). Thanks!!
 
tuscarora dave said:
Go to wal-mart and grab a gallon of this Windshield Washer Fluids | Car Care | Products | Prestone®

Pour it into a 32 ounce spray bottle and spray it on those areas, keep spraying it on to keep everything wet for about 5 minutes. Do this right before you wash your car next.

It looks to me like those are bug guts deposits and not so much etchings. Try this and see where it gets you, or you can spend 10 times the money and get a gallon of Bug Squash to accomplish the exact same goal. Both are formulated with being sprayed over automotive paint part of the formulation plans.

Once you've done this, perhaps there will still be some etchings that will be needing buffed out.
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Defiantly worth a try. Another method I use for the same purpose is aerosol glass cleaner that foams and let that foam sit on there for a few mins
 
At the same time though...I've experienced some horribly bonded bug splatter that couldn't be buffed off with those products. Upon being treated with a product specifically designed to soften and break down bug guts, a drastic improvement was made.
 
Hey Dave, put your glasses on. Look in the top drawer next to the recliner. Kinda like Fred Sanford does.
 
not sure how you werent able to remove it at first with a DA. Either you werent using it properly or you removed quite a bit of CC to remove the etchings.

If i were you i wouldnt mess with the area any more, knowing how many very abrasive compounds you've already used on the sections already.
 
10-04 on the light source
Substitute etching where the word scratch is used.

Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
What it means to remove swirls, scratches and water spots out of automotive clear coats



In order to remove any type of below surface defect out of a clear coat finish you need to carefully remove small amounts of paint surrounding the defect, (or defects), until the surface is uniformly level or flat. Of course some defects may be too deep to remove safely and in these situations you can often time improve the defect but not completely remove the defect.

In other words, in order to remove a scratch out of an automotive clear coat you must remove enough paint surrounding the scratch until the upper most portions of the surface are level with or equal to the lowest depths of the scratch or defect you're trying to remove.


Does that make sense?


The idea being, you don't really remove a scratch, you remove the paint surrounding a scratch.


The problem with removing below surface defects like swirls and scratches is whether or not you have enough film-build or paint thickness to safely remove the defect completely without going through the clear coat and exposing the basecoat also called color coat. Generally speaking, factory clear coats are thin so you need to be careful and take the cautious approach of using the least aggressive product to get the job done.

If you remove too much paint and expose the underlying color coat the only way to fix the problem is to have the affected area repainted. The color coat is usually dull as it gets its gloss from the clear layer of paint.


Products Mentioned
Swirl Removers, Compounds and Polishes
Buffers, Polishers and Pads
Applicator pads for working by hand


Further Reading
Tips & Techniques for using the Porter Cable 7424XP
The Final Wipe
2008 Lexus IS 250 - Pinnacle Detail


Resources
Autogeek Online Detailing Forum
Autogeek Online Store
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Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
...The bug guts can eat enough of the clear layer of paint away that the basecoat is exposed, or at least the clear layer over the basecoat layer is whisper thin and if that's the case rubbing too much will break through the clear layer and expose the basecoat clear coat and then the only way to fix this will be to repaint the affected areas.


If when you rub some Ultimate Compound against an etching and then turn the applicator over and you see the color of the paint, that's a bad sign, that means the clear is missing where the paint is etched.

Sad to say, sometimes the etchings are so bad and so deep that it will be very difficult to completely remove their appearance. But... you should give it a try because you really won't know what you can do until you try.



:)
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BlackHawk said:
not sure how you werent able to remove it at first with a DA. Either you werent using it properly or you removed quite a bit of CC to remove the etchings.

If i were you i wouldnt mess with the area any more, knowing how many very abrasive compounds you've already used on the sections already.
Click to expand...

Good advice

@ART got it from a thread where Cosmin and Advanced Detailing were giving business tips to a newbie.
 
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