Car Shampoo to remove existing protection.

choijw2

choijw2

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Hey guys.

Is there any car shampoo that remove exiting coat of wax or sealant?

CG Citrus wash & gloss claims to remove existing coat of protection when used in high concentration
and typical soap+water ratio for machinate.

Not sure how this work but since I have gallon, I will do a test when weather gets better.

Meanwhile, is there any car shampoo that designed to remove existing wax/sealant?
 
Ha ha, let the games begin! Not sure you're going to get a definitive answer. There are definitely solvent-based products that will remove LSP's if that is your goal.
 
I have yet to see a car shampoo that removes LSP (at least most of stuff on AG are pH balanced)
but I was kinda shocked to read "high concentration" CG ctirus wash & gloss remove LSP.

I just hope no one says "Dish soap" loll
 
choijw2 said:
I have yet to see a car shampoo that removes LSP (at least most of stuff on AG are pH balanced)
but I was kinda shocked to read "high concentration" CG ctirus wash & gloss remove LSP.

I just hope no one says "Dish soap" loll
Click to expand...

Yeah, I think with the help of some members we have in the last couple of years exposed some myths regarding detergent removal of LSP's. I think some of these myths have been continued rather innocently because the companies involved simply believed that the change in sheeting behavior was due to removal of the LSP rather than a function of the wash surfactant altering the surface characteristics.
 
Just read this off AG carpro Hydro2 page.

"To ensure the surface is free of any previously applied waxes and sealants, we recommend adding two ounces of Pinnacle Signature All Purpose Cleaner to your wash bucket."

Anyone tried this method?
 
Mr choijw2,


I am skeptical that any product diluted in water would summarily remove any product specifically designed to repel water.

APC diluted in a wash bucket may serve to hasten LSP diminishment rather than a simple wash alone. As far as a 'shampoo' with the ability to 'remove' an LSP I remain unconvinced of the veracity of these claims.


Steve
 
choijw2 said:
...is there any car shampoo that designed
to remove existing wax/sealant?
Click to expand...
Very well might be; but I'm not going to
belabor this issue. Instead...I'll say that:

-Whenever I want to be assured of the total
removal any existing Waxes/Sealants...
-I'll start with my version of Mike Phillips':
"The Aggressive Approach to Car Washing".

I. "Clean" the vehicle
•Wash/thoroughly rinse vehicle
•Chemical Decon---IronX, or its ilk.
•Mechanical Decon---Clay; clay substitutes

II. The vehicle is now "clean"; time for:
•Paint inspection w/Swirl-finder light
•"Test Spot" [least aggressive first (MP)]
•Paint "correction" using machine and liquids.
(Level/Degree of "correction" will vary)

III. Compounding/Polishing step(s)
have now been completed; which means:
•All Waxes/Sealants have now been
removed from the vehicle. Guaranteed!!


Bob
 
choijw2 said:
Hey guys.

Is there any car shampoo that remove exiting coat of wax or sealant?
Meanwhile, is there any car shampoo that designed to remove existing wax/sealant?
Click to expand...

What kind of protection are you trying to remove? A high quality LSP such as the ones found here or the type that can be found at a local store?

For the latter, I use CarPro Iron-X Snow Foam in a foam cannon in a pre soak manner to dwell on the surface before pressure washing off. This greatly helps knock off the dirt from the vehicle as well as severely degrade the LSP.

choijw2 said:
Just read this off AG carpro Hydro2 page.

"To ensure the surface is free of any previously applied waxes and sealants, we recommend adding two ounces of Pinnacle Signature All Purpose Cleaner to your wash bucket."

Anyone tried this method?
Click to expand...

Yes I have used this method although with Meguiar's D101 APC added in to a traditional wash such as Meguiar's D110 Hyperwash.
 
I still believe the only real way to remove any LSP off of a car is to use at least a mildly abrasive polish. I'm sure there are some soaps/APCs that when mixed in a crazy-strong solution can/may degrade a good LSP, but not thoroughly removed.
 
I had RejeX Paint Sealant and Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0 on opposite sides of the hood, they both have different water behaviors (RejeX sheets slightly faster). After using Eraser I noticed slower sheeting on both sides, RejeX remained faster so there was a clear indication the sealants were still there. Then IPA at 15%, same story. Both still remained. Then I used LA's Totally Awesome all purpose degreaser neat from the orange bottle which I've been using to clean my pads, and I saw an immediate and equal hydrophilic surface on both sides. Most would assume the protection is gone. After washing with Deep Crystal soap I saw the same flat water behavior, I used IPA and Eraser afterwards and rinsed with no change. Then I dried with a drying towel after a final wash with Deep Crystal (with a towel I specifically don't use with drying aids) and rinsed after fully dry and I noticed a slight return in the water behavior, with the RejeX side sheeting slightly faster again. I washed again with Deep Crystal and the completely hydrophilic behavior did not return.
 
I have taken off or severely diminished Deep Gloss Paint Sealant with soap, a few ounces of 3D APC and a bit of Dawn detergent on my personal vehicle. I did a foam canon soak and allowed to dwell for a long while. Then a normal wash with mitts. Then I used a nanoskin mitt and clayed the vehicle. My finger would catch the paint and literally squeek as opposed to slide. The sealant was still going stong prior to me doing the above mentioned. Afterwards, there was no water beading to speak of.
 
DeansDetailing said:
I have taken off or severely diminished Deep Gloss Paint Sealant with soap, a few ounces of 3D APC and a bit of Dawn detergent on my personal vehicle. I did a foam canon soak and allowed to dwell for a long while. Then a normal wash with mitts. Then I used a nanoskin mitt and clayed the vehicle. My finger would catch the paint and literally squeek as opposed to slide. The sealant was still going stong prior to me doing the above mentioned. Afterwards, there was no water beading to speak of.
Click to expand...

And what would have happened if you had then done an IPA wipedown? I believe that was the demo done--take a vehicle with good beading, wash it with dish soap, no beading, wipe with IPA, beading comes back. The explanation being that the dish soap didn't remove the LSP, simply covered it with surfactant residue designed to create sheeting so that your dishes won't get water spots. IPA removes the surfactant residue, revealing the still-there LSP and restoring the beading.

Not saying that's what happened in your case, just something to think about.
 
Mike Honcho said:
Doesn't D114 at a concentration of 6:1
remove waxes and sealants?
Click to expand...
"Meguiar's" has made a few references to D114
stripping Waxes, but not about stripping Sealants.
Here's a couple 'em:

"At a very strong dilution ratio, yes, it can strip
wax. But we're talking like 4:1 or thereabouts".
~Michael Stoops
_________________________________________

"If you use D114 at a very strong dilution ratio,
like 6:1, it will actually strip your wax".
~Michael Stoops


Bob
 
Carpro has videos of them washing Reload with a bunch of APC and acids several times to show off how it doesn't get removed.
 
Well first thank you all for the responds!

I agree chemical decon and clay would be best way to remove existing LSP (BFWD, C845, BF midnight etc etc).

Currently my full exterior detail steps are
  1. Wash tires and wheels
  2. spray iron x all over the car
  3. foam canon pre-soak
  4. two bucket wash
  5. clay
  6. Paint Correction
  7. LSP

I am waiting on clay wash mitt and I am sure it will save me tons of time
but always looking for effective and time saving techniques and products.
 
choijw2 said:
I agree chemical decon and clay would be
best way to remove existing LSP
(BFWD, C845, BF midnight etc etc).
Click to expand...
Those two processes, along with
a car washing session, would be
a good way to clean the vehicle.

Polishing the paint would be the
best way to remove existing LSPs.


Bob
 
Basically, if you have a decent lsp, no such solution exists.

Many claim to have solution but I have tried many and conclude that ignorance, on the part of the marketeer and user is the explanation. I have given solid chemical justification and many have replicated my results and see the logic of the argument. In our manufacturing facility, we struggle to reliably remove silicones from our process tanks, many of the sealants will survive even after the tank has been subsequently used for manufacturing heavy duty solvent degreasers.

It boils down to this. Unless the supplier has truly found a chemical solution which will revolutionise the world (which they almost certainly wont), a claim that their shampoo or apc will strip any lsp is a statement to tell us that they either don't know what they are talking about or that their lsp products are rubbish. Simple as that.
 
Don M said:
I still believe the only real way to remove any LSP off of a car is to use at least a mildly abrasive polish. I'm sure there are some soaps/APCs that when mixed in a crazy-strong solution can/may degrade a good LSP, but not thoroughly removed.
Click to expand...
D120 will strip it squeaky clean,although intended for glass it deos a terrific and effective job of removing wax and such safely and best of all its dilutable and cheap.
 
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