car soap for 100% humidity

Cruzscarwash

Cruzscarwash

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so looking for a AIO soap ( cleans and leaves protection behind) I can use in high humid areas that wont instantly spot. I'm talking like tropical island humidity, I will be washing in the GD method as its my favorite and the easiest to do when mobile and ill be in direct sunlight (as always this cant be avoided). I always carry McKee's coating prep with me as a back up for really dirty areas as this seems to be the best cleaner I have used to date and it a favorite before coatings.

while I currently use McKee's auto wash as it never spots.. ever BUT its not the best in cleaning.

what do you guys suggest
 
You’re referring to McKee’s Coating Prep Polish in your post? How exactly do you incorporate it into your wash process?
 
Plus Mckees Prep wash obviously doesn’t leave anything behind (hopefully the opposite!), so its not going to meet your initial criteria.

Most PBMG gloss enhancer car washes don’t spot much for me as long as you get to the drying pretty quickly. You can also add an ounce of RW to any of these washes... it will further decrease water spot potential and aid in leaving minor gloss/protection behind.
 
Cruzscarwash said:
so looking for a AIO soap ( cleans and leaves protection behind) I can use in high humid areas that wont instantly spot. I'm talking like tropical island humidity, I will be washing in the GD method as its my favorite and the easiest to do when mobile and ill be in direct sunlight (as always this cant be avoided). I always carry McKee's coating prep with me as a back up for really dirty areas as this seems to be the best cleaner I have used to date and it a favorite before coatings.

while I currently use McKee's auto wash as it never spots.. ever BUT its not the best in cleaning.

what do you guys suggest
Click to expand...

Are you using the 'bucket of towels' method with a rinseless wash or regular wash soap? I know Garry recommends his method with either. Since you are doing a panel wash, why not incorporate a spray wax or water activated spray sealant into the process?

When I do a rinseless wash I wash the panel, then spray a non-AG water activated sealant on the panel, level with a damp towel, and dry any remaining water. This does not add any extra time to my process (if I am not applying the sealant I damp wipe the panel, then spray detail spray on the panel and dry). I get the results you are looking for with two products, but get longer protection that an 'wash + wax'.
 
I've only used a couple wash-n-wax soaps, but McKee's 37 Power Wash was my favorite by a wide margin.

I found Power Wash to work very well as a car shampoo, but it also left a little protection behind which left my vehicles looking amazing. The whole time I used it I never felt the need to follow up with a QD or spray wax to boost the shine on my vehicles. I simply washed, dryed, and walked away. If I hadn't moved on to coatings for all our vehicles, I'd probably still be using it today.

The weather in my area can get tropical in my area during the summer and high heat/humidity was never an issue. Just wash in the shade or take other measures to ensure the soap and water don't dry like you would any other car shampoo.
 
mc2hill said:
Are you using the 'bucket of towels' method with a rinseless wash or regular wash soap? I know Garry recommends his method with either. Since you are doing a panel wash, why not incorporate a spray wax or water activated spray sealant into the process?

When I do a rinseless wash I wash the panel, then spray a non-AG water activated sealant on the panel, level with a damp towel, and dry any remaining water. This does not add any extra time to my process (if I am not applying the sealant I damp wipe the panel, then spray detail spray on the panel and dry). I get the results you are looking for with two products, but get longer protection that an 'wash + wax'.
Click to expand...

bucket of towels, normally I wash the panel, spray with PNS, wipe dry and move on. I'm trying to move to a wash panel, wipe dry and walk away to 1 reduce cost to myself and clients, 2 items I buy/carry.
 
Cruzscarwash said:
bucket of towels, normally I wash the panel, spray with PNS, wipe dry and move on. I'm trying to move to a wash panel, wipe dry and walk away to 1 reduce cost to myself and clients, 2 items I buy/carry.
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You dry aid with PNS? Or do you mean BSD?
 
Legend says that when you dry with PNS it looks soo good that you don’t even have to clean the wheels & tires. Paint so amazing people forget they even had tires.lol. Just kiddin
 
IIRC I asked you about EcH2O worked in your environment. Have you tested in rinseless wash dilution 1:200? And maybe do a mix of 2 oz EcH2O and 2oz Reload or any else that is compatible with EcH2O and the last thing many have started to use 2oz Hydro2 concentrate with 20oz of distilled water. And use the mix as a drying aid. The Hydro2 concentrate is suposed to be adding to the longevity of the mix of Merlin Elixir. And thought that a rinseless would be wetter than a waterless wash.

How is McKees 37 SiO2 Wash in leaving protection behind?

Don't use car soaps that leaves behind anymore these days. One I know of gets you around 4 weeks but not sold on AGO. Otherwise Gyeon Bathe Plus with the right wash method leaves a great protection behind. But wondering about how it works in your environment. The risk of high spots from it would be high I think. And that would be with most car soap that leaves behind I think.

It's a tricky environment you work in. And not so easy to find products that works for you.
 
He may have a good point.
I got in trouble with water spots the other day when the sun decided to show up and blast it’s heat all over this black truck as I was just beginning my post wash rinse.

88bc74da6cd4bac49459974c893063fa.jpg


Waterspots all over. It was a little nightmare. Ech2o/Reload mix saved the day. Wiped everything perfectly clean.

cb542f24e1366493888b07588c546164.jpg
 
SWETM said:
IIRC I asked you about EcH2O worked in your environment. Have you tested in rinseless wash dilution 1:200? And maybe do a mix of 2 oz EcH2O and 2oz Reload or any else that is compatible with EcH2O and the last thing many have started to use 2oz Hydro2 concentrate with 20oz of distilled water. And use the mix as a drying aid. The Hydro2 concentrate is suposed to be adding to the longevity of the mix of Merlin Elixir. And thought that a rinseless would be wetter than a waterless wash.

How is McKees 37 SiO2 Wash in leaving protection behind?

Don't use car soaps that leaves behind anymore these days. One I know of gets you around 4 weeks but not sold on AGO. Otherwise Gyeon Bathe Plus with the right wash method leaves a great protection behind. But wondering about how it works in your environment. The risk of high spots from it would be high I think. And that would be with most car soap that leaves behind I think.

It's a tricky environment you work in. And not so easy to find products that works for you.
Click to expand...
So, I'm moving from the hot no humid desert to a hot very humid island. I'm trying to prepare for what's to come. I was able to do some minor testing in Nov/Dec while I was out scouting but didn't have many products with me. At the time I was able to use McKees coating wash prep and McKees auto wash and wipe away with PNS.


Yes it will be a downgrade but with that will be a reduction in price as well. I've been following the price trends of the area and local shops and in order to stay as competitive as I want to be in think this is a move I'm going to have to take or...or swap out PNS with something just as good to apply and remove but at a much lower price point. I would go with Meg's HCW but it's not sold in the gallon...yet..hint hint Meg's..lol

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 
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